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Starved for gas on VERY HOT day

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Old 06-27-2016, 01:58 PM
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Starved for gas on VERY HOT day

I was driving my 5 speed, 87 Toyota 4X4, with my rebuilt 85 22R engine. It was a VERY HOT day about 117. I had just gotten home with no problems from church (20 - 30 minute drive). Ran home and parked the truck for about 20 - 30 minutes. When I left I got about 1/4 of a mile and the truck tried to stall out. Started peddling the gas pedal and kept it running. About 10 minutes later as I pulled off a 40 MPH road on to a 25 MPH road it sputtered again. Started peddling the gas pedal and kept it running. Back on to the 40 MPH road no problem. I park it for 3 - 4 hours and when I started it it sputtered and died, finally got it started and it ran fine.

I have replaced the fuel pump, and the fuel filter in the last year. I have caught a whiff of gas fumes while on the gas tank side of the truck, but no wet spots...

Any ideas?

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Old 06-27-2016, 02:19 PM
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Could it be a plugged vent line? It could be vapor locking?
Old 06-27-2016, 03:03 PM
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Sure sounds like vapor lock.

I don't think the 22r has the Fuel Pressure Up system. If that happens again, consider slapping a wet (cold/cool) rag onto the fuel line near the hot engine.
Old 06-27-2016, 03:08 PM
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First time I have had any problems. Never had any problems with engine in the 85 2x truck... Fuel pump is mounted on the engine, not in the fuel tank...

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Old 06-27-2016, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by scope103
Sure sounds like vapor lock.

I don't think the 22r has the Fuel Pressure Up system. If that happens again, consider slapping a wet (cold/cool) rag onto the fuel line near the hot engine.
What does "the Fuel Pressure Up system" mean?
Old 06-27-2016, 04:07 PM
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Agree on the possibility of Vapor lock. I wonder who some of that insulating heat deflector sock or heat wrap would do the trick

https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/spark-plug-heat-shield
Old 06-27-2016, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by greyheadedguy
What does "the Fuel Pressure Up system" mean?
The fuel-injected trucks have a VSV in the Fuel Pressure Regulator circuit. When hot, the ECM opens the VSV which ports atmospheric (instead of intake) pressure to the FPR, which raises the rail pressure. More fuel flow, which overcomes (I guess) the vapor bubbles.

Vapor lock is pretty common on carburetored anything, because the fuel pump is pulling (negative pressure) rather than pushing the fuel. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vapor_lock
Old 06-28-2016, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by scope103
The fuel-injected trucks have a VSV in the Fuel Pressure Regulator circuit. When hot, the ECM opens the VSV which ports atmospheric (instead of intake) pressure to the FPR, which raises the rail pressure. More fuel flow, which overcomes (I guess) the vapor bubbles.

Vapor lock is pretty common on carburetored anything, because the fuel pump is pulling (negative pressure) rather than pushing the fuel. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vapor_lock
Do you have pictures of this set up or digram of the vacuum lines?

Is the truck a 22r or a 22re?
Old 06-28-2016, 10:22 AM
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http://web.archive.org/web/201501160...ne/41fuelp.pdf

On the 3VZE, the FPU VSV is the second from the back (between the PAIR and EGR VSVs).

ONLY on fuel injected trucks; the VSV controls the FPR, and there is no FPR with a carburetor.
Old 06-29-2016, 05:01 PM
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Okay, so if it is vacuum locking what is the solution? Never had this problem on the 85 Toyota Pick up just this 87 "Gem of a truck!"

This is a 22R it is carbureted...

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Old 06-30-2016, 06:22 AM
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Can you post a close-up pic of your fuel line from pump to carb?

The rubber fuel line was boiling on that particular day...see pics in this link and note the large hose that was slipped over the fuel hose(it's deflecting some of the heat)
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyot...-pictures.html

You can buy generic fiberglass sleeving for a fraction of what the race shops sell it for here

https://www.google.com/search?q=Fibe...leeves&imgrc=_



You said "rebuilt engine" but what about the cooling system? New radiator while retaining the factory fan clutch and shroud? Makes a big difference in engine temps. Your oem factory gauge will read right in the middle up to 220 degrees or so. That is not my idea of a good gauge system. If your engine was running closer to the 220 mark then that will also aggravate the vapor lock.

removing the plastic shroud will strain your cooling system......
going to electric fans is really "cool" for your friends but it will strain the cooling....
an old radiator with 200k miles on it will have some calcium build-up in the tubes and that will strain your cooling system.

Last edited by ZUK; 06-30-2016 at 06:56 AM.
Old 07-02-2016, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by ZUK
Can you post a close-up pic of your fuel line from pump to carb?

The rubber fuel line was boiling on that particular day...see pics in this link and note the large hose that was slipped over the fuel hose(it's deflecting some of the heat)
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyot...-pictures.html

You can buy generic fiberglass sleeving for a fraction of what the race shops sell it for here

https://www.google.com/search?q=Fibe...leeves&imgrc=_



You said "rebuilt engine" but what about the cooling system? New radiator while retaining the factory fan clutch and shroud? Makes a big difference in engine temps. Your oem factory gauge will read right in the middle up to 220 degrees or so. That is not my idea of a good gauge system. If your engine was running closer to the 220 mark then that will also aggravate the vapor lock.

removing the plastic shroud will strain your cooling system......
going to electric fans is really "cool" for your friends but it will strain the cooling....
an old radiator with 200k miles on it will have some calcium build-up in the tubes and that will strain your cooling system.
Let's see if I can get this to work, that is attaching a picture: Here is the fuel line from the fuel pump to the Carburetor
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Old 07-03-2016, 07:49 AM
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I can see the pic.....that line needs to be shielded from heat and the problem will probably go away.
Old 07-03-2016, 08:08 AM
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fiberglass-E...3D121630225086
Old 07-03-2016, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by ZUK
I can see the pic.....that line needs to be shielded from heat and the problem will probably go away.
Why would this be a problem now on this engine in a different body? I ran this engine in my 85 two wheel drive pickup with no problem from November 2001 when I bought it until the little truck was totaled with a bent frame in May 2013.

Just curious why it would have problems now when it never had them before? The only difference is the engine is in a 1987 4X4 instead of the 1985 2X4 the engine came out of. I had driven that little truck through Blythe in June and July with no problems...

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Old 07-03-2016, 09:58 PM
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Too many variables to say .......rebuilt engine with untold number of rebuilt parts.....transferred over to a different chassis....
Old 07-03-2016, 10:12 PM
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could even be a hot spot anywhere's all the way back to the gas tank......not privy to your exhaust routing and fuel lines. In any event, braided fiberglass is a solution.



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