quiggs12

Well, I've been busy and didn't get around to spending 5 minutes doing the RHR recommended tests until today... It appears that both the ground and the positive cable test fine. What do I do now? I am stumped!

todd haley

try this Quiggs,
Run a heavy gauge jumper wire from the power post on the starter to the lead POST on the pos. side of the battery,not the cable clamp and see what that does. I bet your pos. cable is corroded where the wire goes into the lead clamp causing to much resistance,I just had to replace mine today and had the same exact problem you describe!

Gevo

If that is the case, then he should be hearing a clicking sound from the starter solenoid even if the starter doesn't engage.

quiggs12

I just changed out both cables from the battery... The positive one that leads to the starter itself and the negative one that bolts to the engine. I used 4 gauge wire...


Unfortunately, it still doesn't work. What should I do?

The positive cable looked good but the ground looked as if it might have had issues...

quiggs12

I tripled checked the voltage from the Starter Relay last night and it is between 12 and 13 Volts when the key is turned to Start... However, I still have an issue. Battery is between 12 and 13 Volts as well. (I put a charger on it periodically to ensure that it stays okay). It seems that when I turn the key to Start that I can hear the power go strong to weak if the key is held for 5 seconds or so... If it was shorting somewhere, if that is possible given my symptoms, where should I look??? Please advise. Thank you!

SPARKS89

iTrader: (1)

You're having the exact same problem I am. Voltage is good where it's supposed to be and a new starter that bench tests good. Mine looks like a mechanical issue where the starter isn't lining up with the flexplate quite right. I have a shiny spot on my flexplate where it looks like the starter keeps hitting it when it's trying to engage. A friend at work just told me about starter shims. I've never heard of them before, but maybe that will fix you problem...and mine. See if you can see a spot on your flexplate where the starter is hitting it.

SoCal4Running

Used many a starter shim in my chevy days. They will only back the starter away from the flex plate/flywheel and are only used if the starter pinion overshoots it.

SPARKS89

iTrader: (1)

Haha, ok. He's a Chevy guy too. He was telling me that they can be used if the starter needs to get tweaked a little to line up, but it sounds like they're used as spacers to back the starter away from the flexplate. It didn't make sense the way he was talking about it. It sounded more like it would change the angle of how the starter was seated, but I would think that would cause binding issues between the starter and flexplate.

SoCal4Running

Should clarify depending on how the starter mounts they can only move it away from the wheel/plate. On old Chevys they would space it down so the teeth didn't fully engage, would change the depth of tooth engagement.

Gevo

quigs, you say that it's not working.. do you hear anything at all though, like the clicking sound? If power is going to the starter (not just the big wire, the smaller one with a connector) then the starter should be making some sound.

quiggs12

[QUOTE=Gevo;52145191]quigs, you say that it's not working.. do you hear anything at all though, like the clicking sound? If power is going to the starter (not just the big wire, the smaller one with a connector) then the starter should be making some sound.[/QUOTE


Sounds like it hates me!


Could it be shorting at either the (1)Clutch Cancel or (2)Clutch switch itself? I am talking about how the circuit grounds at each switch (in addition to the battery and starter grounds)... I work during the day and am only home when it is dark (and my truck is outside). Any and all help appreciated. Thanks

JohnnyCanuck

I had a car years ago that was missing teeth on the ring gear. It started most times but when it hit the missing tooth and wouldn't start, I'd just use a screw driver to move the ring gear a few teeth and it would start fine until I replaced it.

quiggs12

It's not a teeth issue... The starter is new. The flywheel is good. I have an electrical issue and limited time to troubleshoot (and it's 20 degrees outside). Gurus please advise.

SPARKS89

iTrader: (1)

Get under the truck and turn the crank with the starter on the truck. It's a 19 mm bolt. See if you can hear the starter motor turning while your turning the crank. If you do, keep turning it until it frees up. Keep cranking the engine quite a few revolutions to make sure it's not catching again. That might indicate an issue with your flywheel. Then go start the truck.

I had the same problem with my new starter and I just figured it out and got it running tonight. Hopefully you're having the same problem I did. It's a super easy fix and you'll probably feel stupid if that's what the problem is, but your truck will be running.

quiggs12

WELL... you are a genius! I was flying solo but completed several iterations at turning the crank bolt and then attempting to start it. After about the 4th attempt, BOOM she turned over. Thank you very much!!!

SPARKS89

iTrader: (1)

LOL! No problem dude! Hard to believe someone else would be having the exact same problem at the same time, but I'm glad it worked out for both of us! I recommend going out and starting your truck a few times just to make yourself feel a little more secure about it.

quiggs12

I plow with it so that shouldn't be an issue this time of year (Maine). I had a fuel line issue in the summer that I didn't get around to fixing until the Fall. By the time I got around to it the truck had been sitting a couple of months. But then I thought I had a starter issue since it was the original starter. However, instead of bench testing it I just had my spare rebuilt (as that one was toast). So basically that started this whole NIGHTMARE. Add this to the fact that I just didn't have any time to spend on it and now weeks later here I am... The funny part is that I turned the crank bolt once already to ensure the engine was free... unfortunately, it didn't end up where the starter apparently wanted it. Oh well, I appreciate your troubleshooting and glad to know you're good to go too! Thanks bro!

SPARKS89

iTrader: (1)

Not so fast, homie. I drove my truck last night for a little bit and tried to start it again this morning to take it to the alignment shop and I have the same problem again. It might be more serious than just the method of installation. Make sure yours isn't continuing to bind up too.

Gevo

In Sparks' thread the last thing I said is that I don't think the cause of the problem is fixed. lol.. anyway , I dont have any new ideas for this. But it does seem like both of you have the same issue, which makes me think others have had it as well and perhaps somewhere on thenet a fix has been discussed.

quiggs12

So... Yes it does still occur. However, in my case I am able to pulsate the turning the key very quickly and it will engage within the second or third attempt... It can't be starter installation as it can only line up one way... But in the several trucks that I have ever owned (or family) I have not experienced this before. I am baffled.