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Just did the swap, but it seems none of the gauges work. All the lights seem to be working fine, but no gauges. I swapped the oil sender before I did the swap.
Thanks for the great writeup. I'd thought I would add some photos of a electronic odometer swap. I changed my miles this way without removing the speedometer needle.
I used a ice pick to push out the rod(no. 1)
Remove the white gears(No. 2)
You should be able to set the miles to the correct reading by just turning them freely. You'll need some patient putting it back together. Slide the rod back in while placing the white gears on one at a time. Keep checking to make sure the miles are still reading correctly. Put the black finger thing in.
I know this is an old post but I'm doing this swap and can't get the rod out to correct the new odometer. Was there any trick to it? No matter how hard I push on it, it won't give, so much so that I'm afraid that I might break the plastic haha. Any tips?
Thanks for the write-up. Do you have a Part Number for the correct "SR5 Oil Pressure Sending Unit" to fit to the 22RE to make the new gauge cluster work? For an electronic cluster, does the tachometer need to be calibrated or does the cluster automatically recognize either a V6 or 4 cylinder applications? My switch is for an electric cluster, so I'm having the speedometer shop correct the odometer and need to tell him if her needs to calibrate the tachometer to 68.3 ohms or not.
Thanks for the write-up. Do you have a Part Number for the correct "SR5 Oil Pressure Sending Unit" to fit to the 22RE to make the new gauge cluster work? For an electronic cluster, does the tachometer need to be calibrated or does the cluster automatically recognize either a V6 or 4 cylinder applications? My switch is for an electric cluster, so I'm having the speedometer shop correct the odometer and need to tell him if her needs to calibrate the tachometer to 68.3 ohms or not.
The tach will need adjustment if it is from a V6 going into a 4cyl or vise versa.
Great write up, my install went pretty smooth. I have a problem with my speedometer though, it seems to be registering about 10-15 mph faster than I'm actually going while at highway speeds. I almost crapped myself this morning when I looked down to see the gauge reading 90, so I checked GPS which said 75. Any Idea how to fix this? '91 4x4 4Runner V6 cable cluster -> '91 2-wheel PU x-cab.
Great write up, my install went pretty smooth. I have a problem with my speedometer though, it seems to be registering about 10-15 mph faster than I'm actually going while at highway speeds. I almost crapped myself this morning when I looked down to see the gauge reading 90, so I checked GPS which said 75. Any Idea how to fix this? '91 4x4 4Runner V6 cable cluster -> '91 2-wheel PU x-cab.
Taller tires, or change the gear the speedometer runs on. There is a gearset on the transmission side of the cable, iirc there are two or three ratios
So I followed the instructions and got my new sr5 cluster in my 91 bad model. But I have no tach at all anyone have any suggestions as to what I can do to get that part working
Hey guys, I just swapped my cluster out. If anyone with a stock 22re and W55 (stock rear end) could give some speeds and RPM ranges at those speeds that would be awesome. Say, 5th gear at 60mph =?rpm? This would help people make sure their set up is working properly.
Also, I changed out the oil pressure sending unit, and the gauge is not reading. I think I have a bad gauge in the cluster. Because the sending unit cost me $50, I took it back and got my money. I am just going to install a autometer electronic gauge, which should be better anyway, and only about $60-70. Right now I have a check engine light, likely because I do not have the idiot light sensor plugged in. I'm just going to leave it plugged in so the light goes off... anyone see a problem with that if the cluster is already screwed up?
Jon
EDIT: my truck is a 95 base pickup. My tach was not working so I had to run the wire from the P marked screw on the cluster to the yellow wire on the ignition near the coil. I just opened up the connector, put a skinny wire in, and plugged it back up. No splice needed.
Can you by chance show me how you did this. I want my tach to work
I just did this swap today, thanks to superbleeder and twistedsymphony! I dont know if this question has been answered or not yet, but i figured it out, and borrowed one of 'bleeders pics to illustrate the how to for anyone who is having this problem. I already had a sunpro tach in my truck before i started, so i had already run a wire from my ignition coil into the cab. If you havent gotten that far, you need to splice a wire into the ground side of the ignition coil. (on my '93 there is a tan and a black wire, the ground is the black wire). then run the other end of the wire either into the 6th position from the left on the blue connector, or attach the wire directly to the screw labeled "P" on the back of the cluster. I had problems with the wire trying to short across other pins so I attached it directly to the screw. Here is the pic I borrowed and circled the pin/screw:
Is there anyway you can show me what you did because obviously I can’t see the pictures. I’m trying to wire my tach into the harness but I don’t want to mess anything up
So I followed the instructions and got my new sr5 cluster in my 91 bad model. But I have no tach at all anyone have any suggestions as to what I can do to get that part working
Gwt out your service manual (FSM) flip thru to the cluster pages and locate the tach/RPM pin (from what I remember it's some where on the C connector), you need to connect this to the RPM on the diagnostics port under the hood.. I don't think I took any pictures, but I spend "all day" at the junkyard getting the factory wire out of a dash harness..
Gwt out your service manual (FSM) flip thru to the cluster pages and locate the tach/RPM pin (from what I remember it's some where on the C connector), you need to connect this to the RPM on the diagnostics port under the hood.. I don't think I took any pictures, but I spend "all day" at the junkyard getting the factory wire out of a dash harness..
all I have is my chiltons book I don’t have the original owner manual. I guess I can do some more digging around. I just remember someone saying the connected a wire to the ignition coil and the P screw.
This seems like a popular thread so I have two questions.
1) how do I remove the lens of the cluster so I can fix my tach needle? My fuse popped one day and my needle went screwy and ended up INDER the nipple at Zero, so now when the truck is running, it raises to there and stops
2) can anyone give me the part number for the bulbs that go in behind the gauges. NONE of mine work lol
I've searched all over this site and can’t seem to find the answer anywhere.
Many help is greatly appreciated.
Picture for clarification.
Also this is the original cluster with (from what I can tell) the original drive train. I’m not sure if it’s common or not, but the mileage impressed me
If I remember correctly, there are six plastic tabs holding the clear face lense to the gage cluster. Gently pry (lift) each away from their cluster housing bases and the lense will pull free from the cluster housing. The following pic shows the location of the tach adjusting screw. It only takes very slight adjustments to dial-in the correct tach setting to reflect 2,900 RPM at 70 MPH for a 22RE.
Feb 9, 2016, 10:13 AM
