Speedometer quit
#1
Speedometer quit
How do you tell if it's the cluster or the speed sensor? It's always had an issue with the speedo flipping back and forth when I turn the turn signals on, but now its completely quit. It did the fluttering deal for a few days and now its completely dead.
#2
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I assume you've already determined that you HAVE a VSS1 speed sensor in the back of the transfer case (in the olden days, the speedometer was cable driven, VSS1 was in the Combination Meter (cluster), and the speedometer itself was entirely mechanical). You can find the procedure for testing the sensor here: http://web.archive.org/web/200901240...e/combinat.pdf
Back when my sensor went south, I worked out that procedure without the help of the manual, but I checked it in the other direction. I hooked a signal generator to the disconnected lead from the sensor, and confirmed the speedometer worked when fed a simulated signal. I doubt you have a signal generator.
Back when my sensor went south, I worked out that procedure without the help of the manual, but I checked it in the other direction. I hooked a signal generator to the disconnected lead from the sensor, and confirmed the speedometer worked when fed a simulated signal. I doubt you have a signal generator.
#7
I just went and pulled the sensor out to look at it. It has the plastic gear on the end. I'm seeing multiple options for sensors when it comes to replacing. I see them from $33 to $160. Which one do I need?
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#9
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When mine went out troubleshooting pointed to the sensor but it turned out to be the speedo itself. Cost me $400 to get it replaced. That was 20 years ago though.
#10
It sounds like a pretty expensive little part. It bounced on and off for a long time. Some days it would work, some it would bounce up and down and others it may not work. Finally it just stopped all together.
finding that part is seeming tougher than I figured.
finding that part is seeming tougher than I figured.
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Do you have the current part out? RockAuto has photographs of most of the options. They are distinct enough that you should be able to pick out the one that matches yours from the photos.
I look up a lot of part numbers, and I've never been able to figure out systematically which part number speed sensor matches to which VIN vehicle. You might be able to find someone who could do that at a dealership.
"Bounce on then off" was the symptom I had. OEM these run about $400, but RockAuto has them in the $110-$190 range. (Don't lose the gear; the sensor comes without it.)
I look up a lot of part numbers, and I've never been able to figure out systematically which part number speed sensor matches to which VIN vehicle. You might be able to find someone who could do that at a dealership.
"Bounce on then off" was the symptom I had. OEM these run about $400, but RockAuto has them in the $110-$190 range. (Don't lose the gear; the sensor comes without it.)
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I think I would verify the wires from the speed sensor (signal generator really). Even with out a signal generator, I would at least test continuity from the combo meter down to the connector. Also check for shorts, and check for int'mittent opens by maybe having someone wiggle harness for you. A meter with 'continuity' tone would be real helpful.
I could not determine what year yours is?
Pardon my rambling; I am in process of converting my 95 (build date Oct) with a mechanical cable that goes into the cluster. I am converting to a manual tranny, from a 94 (also a 3VZ). It had the 'electronic' sensor/generator on the output shaft. That sensor has three wires; power, ground, and the signal. I have routed them (into the wire harness) up to the cluster. I am also changing the combo meter to the 94. I stumbled on all this chasing the need for SP signal into ECM.
The 95 has a cable, and its electrical converter is on the back of the combo meter. But I also just don't want to deal with a broken or noisy cable in the future.
I could not determine what year yours is?
Pardon my rambling; I am in process of converting my 95 (build date Oct) with a mechanical cable that goes into the cluster. I am converting to a manual tranny, from a 94 (also a 3VZ). It had the 'electronic' sensor/generator on the output shaft. That sensor has three wires; power, ground, and the signal. I have routed them (into the wire harness) up to the cluster. I am also changing the combo meter to the 94. I stumbled on all this chasing the need for SP signal into ECM.
The 95 has a cable, and its electrical converter is on the back of the combo meter. But I also just don't want to deal with a broken or noisy cable in the future.
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