Something squeaking when I reverse?
#1
Something squeaking when I reverse?
Well i noticed it today after I had about 1 ton of gravel in the bed... After that everytime I engage reverse gear the it makes a squeaking noise that gets faster the faster I reverse..
It only does it when the clutch is out, but not when the clutch is in. Anyone shed some light on this?
It only does it when the clutch is out, but not when the clutch is in. Anyone shed some light on this?
#3
lol, that was my first thought
I replaced both u-joints in the rear shaft cause I had the same accurance
I foun one cap completely dry; it was starting to rust up
hit them with grease real quick and see if it stops; if it does, then that's what it is, but chances are the damage has already been done to the needle bearings, and I would replace it/them anyway
I replaced both u-joints in the rear shaft cause I had the same accurance
I foun one cap completely dry; it was starting to rust up

hit them with grease real quick and see if it stops; if it does, then that's what it is, but chances are the damage has already been done to the needle bearings, and I would replace it/them anyway
Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; Apr 3, 2009 at 03:50 PM.
#6
Yeah the very last u joint before the rear axle is all dry looking, it's missing a grease zerk, I will try and swap one from the front to it.. It's just hard to get it into the hole and turn it
#7
why would you swap one from the front to it though?
then you'll just have a bad one up front!just go get a new one; they're like $10
oh and a new u-joint will come with a grease fitting
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#9
if it's squeaking, it's prolly too late
u-joints aren't that expensive- maybe 20 or so each- so I'd replace it anyhow and even if the squeak persists, at least you know the joints are good.
u-joints aren't that expensive- maybe 20 or so each- so I'd replace it anyhow and even if the squeak persists, at least you know the joints are good.
#12
another thing about the zerk fitting, is that it holds the grease in the joint and keeps it under pressure in the u joint. you can often times pick up one for a buck or less at the Auto parts store.
#14
Contributing Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 9,055
Likes: 10
From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
Really easy. Search on youtube, you can find really good instructional videos.
I used a vice and two old sockets. One just big enough that the cap would slip in, and one more the same size as the cap.
Knock one side out, then drive it back out the other side, repeat.
When installing go slowley, keep moving the joint to feel for smoothness. If at anypoint the u-joint is hard to move STOP! It must be free or you will go through that joint in no time.
Then pump it full of grease
After everything is put in place, give the area around the u-joint cap a few good smacks with a hammer. This will help set the cap in the shaft.
I used a vice and two old sockets. One just big enough that the cap would slip in, and one more the same size as the cap.
Knock one side out, then drive it back out the other side, repeat.
When installing go slowley, keep moving the joint to feel for smoothness. If at anypoint the u-joint is hard to move STOP! It must be free or you will go through that joint in no time.
Then pump it full of grease

After everything is put in place, give the area around the u-joint cap a few good smacks with a hammer. This will help set the cap in the shaft.
#15
alright just found the videos then, this looks easy. i was getting worried when i was reading that they have to be pressed in etc, but i see what you mean about the sockets. will let you know how it goes, might even put some pics up for future users.
if i can do it, anyone could haha
if i can do it, anyone could haha
#16
Contributing Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 9,055
Likes: 10
From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
Trust me, its easy! The hardest part was getting the old joint out due to rust..
LIke I said, just make sure there is no resistance in the u-joint, if there is you will wear it out fast..
LIke I said, just make sure there is no resistance in the u-joint, if there is you will wear it out fast..
#17
Well I did it today, let me just say, I did it without a vice, so it was pretty hard.
Ended up smashing all the bearing caps to pieces with a cold chisel and hammer (it was really bad, all the end caps had chunks of metal out of them and the bearings just fell out the more I tapped it), then filed out the holes where the caps came out of to make sure the new caps seal alright.
The new u joint was free until I tapped it into place with the socket enough to get the retainer clips in, then it was pretty hard to move the saddle part around, so I don't know if this KOYO u joint properly fits..
Ended up smashing all the bearing caps to pieces with a cold chisel and hammer (it was really bad, all the end caps had chunks of metal out of them and the bearings just fell out the more I tapped it), then filed out the holes where the caps came out of to make sure the new caps seal alright.
The new u joint was free until I tapped it into place with the socket enough to get the retainer clips in, then it was pretty hard to move the saddle part around, so I don't know if this KOYO u joint properly fits..
Last edited by hellfire; May 3, 2009 at 01:33 AM.
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