you should have much more rear flex than that, but it looks to me like you're limited due to the tire size?

 

To my understanding, blocks can limit axle travel, as well as having the wrong length shocks...

 

huh....that's just not the case, in my experience. especially with rigs as long as yotas, it's the tcase, and sometimes spring perches/link mounts. a careful line can get the diff up over an obstacle alot easier than the whole truck.


it's true that with a SOLID axle, only tires and shaving can get clearance under the diff (although a u-bolt flip, and shock relocation can give you all kinds of usable clearance, even if not under your diff). with IFS, a true suspension lift will give you all kinds of clearance under the diff, with stock tires. of course, a true suspension lift costs more than your average SAS swap....and yields similar performance....so they're rather rare.



I, for one, think that's a nice truck. it's not perfect, but who's ever is? you've done some nice work, congrats!

 

I would take this truck to another alignment shop or, reset the ride height and tell the current shop to "do the best they can". The lifts often lift the front more than the rear. This sets the caster at a more severe angle which has the completely benign effect of increasing the truck's tendency to return to center (read more stable).

Many shops don't really have a clue as to what they are doing. More caster is fine as long as they cross caster is close. The fact that they didn't know this suggests they are probably not the best shop to wrench on your truck.

The front should really be lifted higher back to stock spec + 4" otherwise if you wheel your front components are going to take a serious beating.

frank

 

So, you all are basically saying to ramp the torsion bars back up to factory settings and go from there. At this point I'm open to any reasonable suggestion

 

Correct. They front is set way to low. Issues include:

1) Very little suspension travel to absorb impact. This will encourage the rearward a-arm mounts to bend spreading outwards.

2) very little clearance between the front wheels. This will cause your front crossmember and differential to take a beating which will knock out your alignment likely every time you wheel.

3) Not getting what you paid for. You bought a 4" lift and probably have about half that.

Search 4Crawler's site and this BBS on how to set your ride height and do your own alignment. If you don't think you have the tires aligned correctly, take it to a different shop, it will be so close they will have little trouble aligning it.


Frank

 

Thanks to everybody who gave their 2 cents worth on this topic. I really wanna get this thing raised up to the true 4" of lift that I was expecting. Anyone heard of TD Performance? Its Tire Discounters' "performance" division. Just wondering if anyone has gone through them with anything and if they are knowledgable in this particular field. I know that they install lift kits, so I figure they should know what they're doing.