Why not install it (sans bracket) for a test run, I'm really curious to see if it makes a difference. I've been running my filter/AFM without a bracket for the last year on and off (no bracket came with it, and it stays in place well enough on its own). My "test track" is the hill up to SFU. No noticeable difference with just the AFM and cone filter, obviously the intake is important if this mod actually works.

Also, how long does the new battery cable have to be to relocate the battery to the d-side? What are you guys using for battery trays?

 

I started this mod as a way to free up space for a dual battery system. I don't expect it to hinder my intake, and I won't be picking up my new throttle body 'til maybe next year, so I'm not in a hurry to test it out. I'll let you know, though, next time I take my SO up to SFU how it performs. I should be able to get a bracket fabbed in the next week or two. I'm working on the design right now.

Man ... I really got a get a garage so I can fab my own gear.

 

Hmmm, not sure about the battery cable. It depends. I think I'm going to run cables around the back of the motor (instead of over the radiator) to the starter + then right there to the block -. I'm thinking I'll need atleast 10ft? That'll definatley give me a little extra for grounds and other stuff. I would like to get welding cable though, more efficient. The battery tray I could probably fab up or see how the battery sits there an go from there. I haven't gotten that far yet!

 

Send me a PM when you do, I'd be interested in seeing this set up in person.

 

I couldn't help myself ...

I went down and started working on the install and before you know it I had almost everything done, and still no bracket ... so you win Matt!

Few things ...

1. Since I'm putting the cone on the passenger side of the intake, I took the tape off the harness for the AFM and pulled the wires out of the split loom until I reached the back of the intake on the engine. A second group of wires runs to the starter or a component near by, so I kept the original split loom in place.

2. My filter and the AFM are much too long to fit where I thought it would. I am considering moving my charcoal canister, and will have to adjust my mounting of the winch solenoid controller pack to properly fit the AFM.

3. It is considerably louder. I don't have a filter for the resonator yet, but I can hear quite some noise from the resonator and the filter. For a guy who loved the way his engine purred at idle and hated the way it screamed on the highway, I'm not too stoked on this, but when I get my Dynamax installed in the cab I'm sure I'll be much happier.

I haven't taken it for a run yet, so I'll let you know if I head up to SFU, Matt. Shouldn't you be finishing that midterm?

Cheers.

 

here is what i did[IMG][/IMG]
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so what i did was use my stock 60* elbow to connect to the new pipe. and for my filter mount i used the bottom piece of the airbox and cut a lil groove into it to secure its location. i htink total for all the parts it cost me about 150. for all of it.

 

Archaeology midterm is done and marked, pretty happy with my mark for a course in outside my department.

You're killing me here, what about the power??? I too don't like noisy engines, but my valve tick is loud enough that noise a bit of a lost cause already.

 

nice good job on your mid term. there is a definite power increase to it compared to the stock. and way better throttle response

 

I took it for a drive today.

I don't have a larger TB, and I haven't changed any other component of my intake or exhaust. This is my first real engine performance related mod.

I didn't notice a power difference. I noticed it sounded a lot more powerful, but it didn't feel much more powerful. The true test will be the SFU mountain climb.

I did, however, notice a much improved throttle response. When I wanted to get up and go, I didn't have to wait for that second of hesitation before the engine gave me what I wanted. Pretty stoked on that. I noticed my throttle wire seems pretty loose. Might tighten that up?

Also, it was only really noticeably louder when I was accelerating. At cruising conditions it wasn't too bad, even without the filter on the resonator.

I still have to install the resonator filter (purchased today), and I'm gonna move around my winch solenoid to make the ducting less convoluted. I'll post pictures when I do.

Which faculty you in? The SO does crim/soc/native classes, and a few arceo classes.

 

Hey, thanks. Its nice to get something good back from what's taking all my money at the moment.

That's good to know about the power increase. That tells me that it is the intake tube is a restriction. The AFM is almost certainly as well, but to test that, you'd have to fit the stock AFM to the wide intake.

You're throttle response with the 5MG-E TB will increase as 1/4 pedal with the Supra TB will let in as much air as maybe 1/3 pedal (or more) with the stock butterfly valve. Hypothetically, if you had the stock intake and the 5mge TB, all the power would come in the first 1/3 or so of the pedal as the TB would be letting in as much air as the intake could handle. What I'm really curious about is whether with the modified intake, there is enough air available to get power all the way up 3/4 throttle- roughly like in the stock setup (just at 3/4 pedal, 5mge intake, you'd be getting more power).

 

I duct taped the supra AFM to the stock intake duct (didn't have a coupling), put on my cone filter (which did fit) and went for a test drive- can't say I noticed the difference with just the AFM. This didn't surprise me though, as the intake has one section thats smaller than my wrist.

I'm in the arts faculty, but I will be going in to health sciences as most of the courses I'm taking are in HSci already. Its an interesting faculty and I can't see there ever being a job shortage with the aging population and all.

 

the AFM by it self really only complements the mods you already have i.e. cam and header you really see the difference. having custom exhaust you can tell the difference right away

 

So, I took the truck out today and drove around runnin thru the gears and driving thru town. Seems a little more peppy! When I got home though, I was reving the motor noticing the lack of lag it has now! I'm happy with this! Then I noticed it was pinging. Hmmmm, never did that before the mod. So, from idle to WOT or just a snap of the throttle I get this ping. Have you guys(anybody who's done this mod) notice this?

Now, I am running a Crane ignition and coil and still have the stock injectors in running 87 octane. The timing should still be dead on @5 degrees BTDC. My first idea was to disconnect the Crane system and run it stock and see what happens. Also, the injectors need to be balanced and cleaned and I will probably be doing that over the next couple of weeks.

Basically, do I need to adjust something?

 

Yeah, loosen up the tension spring on the afm a click or two. The bigger afm is pulling in more air, leaning you out.

 

yeah or run premium gas i just put a tank of premium in and my truck has never run better and i am getting better MPG not by much but i get a 10 cent discount so i use it. if the AFM adjustment doesn't work then try a higher octane to get rid of the ping. my race bike does that when i run97 octane instead of 112 octane.

 

I was running mid grade 89 octane before the mod and the truck was running better so I thought that I would stick with that. Then the wife filled it up with 87...grrrrr. It's going to take forever to burn it out and fill up again with some 89. I only drive the truck maybe once a week. Guess I'll bust out the Harbor Freight gas siphon! lol!!

 

yeah that or add some octane booster to it and your gas will stay fresher that way

 

'suppose I could try that too.

 

Logan! Did you get the ping worked out? Any success with adjusting the spring door on the afm?

 

I wish. With the wife gone for a while, it's just me and the kids. I'm hoping to get the truck into the garage this week. I'm not to keen on adjusting the internals of the afm seeing that I'm the only one that's seemed to have this "issue." I think that first I'm going to disable the Crane ignition and see if that changes anything. My injectors need to be cleaned too because they're original and I didn't get a chance to do that when I had the motor rebuilt. I think I'm going to go with these guys: http://www.cruzinperformance.com/. Now, if the cleaned injectors don't fix the ping then I'll do the surgery on the afm. Funny thing, Downey Off Road actually shows how to do this right on their site!