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Smoking brakes---right front wheel!

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Old Oct 24, 2020 | 04:00 PM
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Smoking brakes---right front wheel!

All,
Drove home my 86 base Toyota pickup tonight (only 61K miles), and the wheel started juddering, followed by a smell of burning. I pulled over as I thought the brakes might be stuck on. The drivers side front wheel felt normal temp, but the passenger front wheel was burning hot! Smoke also was starting to emit from the wheel! Needless to say, I got a tow home!

What would you diagnose as the problem? It stops fine (minus the smoking!!!!), but pulls to the right. I am guessing the caliper is stuck on and (both) should be replaced (and maybe I'll do all flexi hoses and front pads at the same time). Now I think about it, the heat might have warped the rotor too....... Any other ideas appreciated as I almost lost the tip of my finger this week at work, so wrenching on the truck this weekend is not happening. If I am lucky, I will be able to do a little next weekend.

Thanks,
Julian
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Old Oct 24, 2020 | 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by knac1234
All,
Drove home my 86 base Toyota pickup tonight (only 61K miles), and the wheel started juddering, followed by a smell of burning. I pulled over as I thought the brakes might be stuck on. The drivers side front wheel felt normal temp, but the passenger front wheel was burning hot! Smoke also was starting to emit from the wheel! Needless to say, I got a tow home!

What would you diagnose as the problem? It stops fine (minus the smoking!!!!), but pulls to the right. I am guessing the caliper is stuck on and (both) should be replaced (and maybe I'll do all flexi hoses and front pads at the same time). Now I think about it, the heat might have warped the rotor too....... Any other ideas appreciated as I almost lost the tip of my finger this week at work, so wrenching on the truck this weekend is not happening. If I am lucky, I will be able to do a little next weekend.

Thanks,
Julian
I would recommend that you replace everything, if you don't you'll likely end up doing it twice.
Pads, rotors, calipers, hoses.
after you swap the parts and bleed the brakes make sure that you can spin both wheels by hand when jacked up and after you hit the brake pedal a few times just to make sure they are releasing properly.
you most assuredly have warped that rotor and the likely issue is the caliper. Don't try to just replace one side or you could easily end up with a pull under braking.
Bite the bullet and do it all and you shouldn't have to worry about it for years to come.
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Old Oct 24, 2020 | 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by knac1234
All,
Drove home my 86 base Toyota pickup tonight (only 61K miles), and the wheel started juddering, followed by a smell of burning. I pulled over as I thought the brakes might be stuck on. The drivers side front wheel felt normal temp, but the passenger front wheel was burning hot! Smoke also was starting to emit from the wheel! Needless to say, I got a tow home!

What would you diagnose as the problem? It stops fine (minus the smoking!!!!), but pulls to the right. I am guessing the caliper is stuck on and (both) should be replaced (and maybe I'll do all flexi hoses and front pads at the same time). Now I think about it, the heat might have warped the rotor too....... Any other ideas appreciated as I almost lost the tip of my finger this week at work, so wrenching on the truck this weekend is not happening. If I am lucky, I will be able to do a little next weekend.

Thanks,
Julian
I'd replace pads, hoses, and calipers on both sides, and do a test drive. If it's funny at all in that test drive (vibrates, brakes asymmetrically, etc.), then change rotors, which is a PITA on the 4WD versions compared with modern trucks since the rotors are on the inside of the wheel bearings. My theory is you have a corrosion issue. If money is no object, then replace the rotors at the start just to be safe, but me, I'd try w/o rotor swap to start.
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Old Oct 24, 2020 | 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Blueman
I'd replace pads, hoses, and calipers on both sides, and do a test drive. If it's funny at all in that test drive (vibrates, brakes asymmetrically, etc.), then change rotors, which is a PITA on the 4WD versions compared with modern trucks since the rotors are on the inside of the wheel bearings. My theory is you have a corrosion issue. If money is no object, then replace the rotors at the start just to be safe, but me, I'd try w/o rotor swap to start.
When they are using words like "juddering", "burning" and "smoke" there is no way that the rotor is not warped. This is a case where trying to be cheap makes more work, you'll have to pull everything apart a second time to replace the rotors.
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Old Oct 24, 2020 | 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by akwheeler
When they are using words like "juddering", "burning" and "smoke" there is no way that the rotor is not warped. This is a case where trying to be cheap makes more work, you'll have to pull everything apart a second time to replace the rotors.
Not not everyone has the same amount of time and money as others. It's an expensive job to replace the rotors. And as I said, if money is not an issue then I would replace the rotors right away. But, since this truck has very few miles, the rotors are likely only minimally worn so it's purely an issue of if they warped or not. Just because they got hot does not mean that they always warp. If you have time and labor, but not money, one can try not replacing the rotors initially. I don't think there's any safety risk from this approach, it's just the risk of labor.
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Old Oct 24, 2020 | 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Blueman
Not not everyone has the same amount of time and money as others. It's an expensive job to replace the rotors. And as I said, if money is not an issue then I would replace the rotors right away. But, since this truck has very few miles, the rotors are likely only minimally worn so it's purely an issue of if they warped or not. Just because they got hot does not mean that they always warp. If you have time and labor, but not money, one can try not replacing the rotors initially. I don't think there's any safety risk from this approach, it's just the risk of labor.
Good post. I had a caliper stick a few months after I bought my truck 15 years ago. At the time buying just the caliper and new pads meant a 2 week diet of ramen. The rotor involved is still in service to this day.
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Old Oct 25, 2020 | 04:13 AM
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Thanks all for the comments!

I had intended on doing whatever I do on one side to both sides (plus doing all flexi hoses front and back since they are rubber and can perish). As one likely original caliper has failed, the other, likely original, one probably would follow suit.

I was looking for confirmation on what I guessed it would be prior to taking the wheels off, etc.... With the smoke and burning smell, and the juddering/vibration and pulling to one side, I was fairly confident it was a stuck caliper. Due to the low mileage, I am sure they are the originals from 34 years ago, so agree with calipers/flexis/pads on both sides. Rotors (if done, both sides too) are the unknown. That said, it is a 2wd truck, so how involved is rotor removal (again mostly due to my finger tip which cannot have any pressure on it - and it's my right dominant hand too!).

Julian
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Old Oct 25, 2020 | 12:14 PM
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Replacing the rotors on the 2WD isn't bad. I had to do mine after my EX wife, very EX wife, drove it with the pads worn down to the metal while I was overseas. Needless to say, the rotors were scored so badly, a new set of pads lasted about 24K, and they were worn out.

Just my experience...
Pat☺
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Old Oct 25, 2020 | 02:20 PM
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Thanks......placed an order for everything just a short time ago. I also ordered wheel bearings.....while there, as they are likely original too......
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Old Oct 25, 2020 | 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by knac1234
Thanks......placed an order for everything just a short time ago. I also ordered wheel bearings.....while there, as they are likely original too......
Make sure to get the wheel bearing grease as well for packing them. And there are probably some seals to order as well...
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Old Oct 26, 2020 | 03:08 PM
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Thanks...got the grease, but did not order seals. Any ideas on what ones I need?
Julian
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Old Oct 26, 2020 | 04:18 PM
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Glad to hear you've got it sorted out.
Sorry about the bad link to parts...
Cheers

Last edited by Mr. Z.; Oct 26, 2020 at 04:30 PM.
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Old Oct 26, 2020 | 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr. Z.
It looks like you already ordered the bearings, but this wheel bearing kit comes with all the seals and gaskets needed.
They do sell the seals and gaskets separately, as well.

https://www.lceperformance.com/Wheel...-p/1091539.htm

Cheers
This kit is for 4 Wheel Drive Trucks with a solid front axle only.


Last edited by old87yota; Oct 26, 2020 at 04:24 PM.
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Old Oct 26, 2020 | 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by knac1234
Thanks...got the grease, but did not order seals. Any ideas on what ones I need?
Julian
rockauto.com should have 'em
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Old Oct 27, 2020 | 03:19 PM
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I ordered 2 each of the items below from Advance (says exact fit for 2wd 86 Toyota Pickup). Just checked Rock Auto and the pics for the bearings/race inner/outer look the same as my links below, but no gaskets/seals like in the 4wd link above........anything else needed??

Everything will be here by Thursday. Not sure if I am going to be able to tackle it Sunday with my finger, but might try!!

Any tips on wheel bearing/race replacement appreciated, as the last I did were years ago on my MGB.

Julian


https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...m_content=ITEM
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...m_content=ITEM

Last edited by knac1234; Oct 27, 2020 at 03:25 PM.
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