It's time for new brakes on the baby runner (stock 89 with 31s).... Is going to a slotted roter worth the $70 difference over just standard vented roters.

 

brakes pads are gonna be chewed up faster... but the braking distance should be cut down a little. just make sure the rears are in good shape and adjusted properly.

 

i LOVE my Brembo drilled and slotted rotors on my BMW...there are few things better than being able to stop in time..

i thought that too, the pads might wear out faster, but i notice that is NOT the case.
in fact.
i can say that i think having cooler rotors and better stopping power actually SAVES or reduces wear.

the drilled holes are chamferred and the slots are for removing debris, so in all essence, i would recomend a good set...

however, its important to get pads and rotors mated up properly,
w/brembo, i use pbr metal masters (dustless) and they have kept my bmw on the street for at least 20 thousand miles of HARD driving...(yes, i can show you pix of my turns and hills i motor through in the summertimes)...(which is incedentally why im even here now..the 4x is getting prepped for winter roughhousing)...

so..
imo i would do it.
its an upgrade, and may just save your truck (or life)
don't buy the cheapest stuff from china, actually get something paired or mated correctly and you will definately notice the difference.

 

I'd do it. The brakes in these trucks SUCK big time. A heavy pig of a truck with 4 inch rotors you can't expect awesome braking... any bit you can do to help it out I'd do it. Brakes are important. Don't underestimate the importance of good braking.

 

btw, u have a link for the vented rotors?

heres a pic of my drileld / slotted after 1 year of use on the bmw

 

2 things i know about brakes, from my land rover disco...

6k pounds 4 wheel disc brakes, teach you alot.

was my wife's daily driver.

installed slotted rotors and ceramic brake pads. the rotors would eat up the pads.

slide a block of cheese on the counter, then slide it over a cheese grater. that's as simple as I can put it.

 

Would mud be an issue for drilled or sloted rotors?

 

No the drilled and slots will cut the mud off the pads, just like it lets the gas escape.

 

good brakes on 4runner = endo? lol

 

Haha, i'm not do any brake upgrades until I get rear disc...

the CRAZIEST thing i'm gonna do is this ..

http://www.allprooffroad.com/pickupbrakeupgrades/33
which comes in this kit

http://www.allprooffroad.com/pickupt...kupxmemberskid

 

Not worth it IMO.

 

Yeah, stick with stockers and make sure the drums are working good... I'd probibly do rear discs before I went drilled/slotted rotors.

 

definately do discs in the rear,

that ebrake looks awesome. i wish they made em for the v6's
i wonder what the difference is, or if they ever will.

and
if you do a lot of braking, down hill, or long mountain drives, and hard braking, drilled rotors will keep them cooler, and less prone to warping.

chamferred or drilled rotors do NOT cut up pads...(i stress again the mating steel vs. pads are recomended by manufactures).

if you experience warped rotors, you will wear out 1 pad unevenly, all the time, while driving, and have to replace both pads and rotors.

whenever i get new rotors for mine, they will always be at least drilled, if not slotted too. but i still have the stocks on there now. and drums on the rear (which are in ok condition, but i do want the disc swap too)

 

$120 for rotors or $240... You can change a lot of pads for that price. When was the last time you had braking issues with 35's and stock rotors? Save the money and eventually switch to disc in the rear.

 

Unless you're towing, why do you need better brakes with 31's anyways? I could lock up at any speed with my old brakes both with 2 pots frozen.

 

Except that modern pads don't outgas in any use that any of us are likely to see.

The drilled rotors are strickly for bling bling.
They are worthless for anything else and actually decrease braking ability, everything else being equal.



Fred

 

Drilled rotors do not run cooler.
The drilled holes (back when they first came into use) had nothing to do with cooling.
If anything, drilled rotors run hotter. Less mass for heat sinking.
They are actually decrease the braking ability, everything else being the same. Drilled holes = less surface area (and less mass) = less braking ability.

Just look at any auto event that actually uses sever braking. You'll not find a single drilled rotor.
Also all except some of the most expensive drilled rotors, tend to develop stress cracks around the drilled holes.

Y'all may wish to read up on how brakes actually work, the forces and physics involved




Fred

 

Now don't go and throw physics in there and start making some sense. You'll confuse them Fred.

 

But it's kinda fun sometimes to watch the confusion that it creates




Fred

 

I'm confused...