Denver86-22r

New clutch, master and slave cylinder are on my '86 4wd pickup. Bleeding it leads to the slave cylinder overextending and locking up at an angle so it won't retract.

The truck's out in my driveway 'cause it broke down the day before I was gonna take all the stuff in my garage to storage. Shoulda just thrown it all in the trash and pushed her inside 'cause it's been a snowy couple of weeks. . __------> I'm on the internet looking for some help

I've gotten a new slave cylinder and this doesn't seem to be the problem. I'm gonna take a peek into the whole bracket thing again but the clutch I took out was smoked all the way and the old slave was leaking.

What's going on? Am I over-bleeding it? Is the fork wrong inside the clutch? I'm pretty sure I'm doing something idiotic, please un-idiot me - I really appreciate it!

Denver86-22r

The bracket is not broken.

I wonder if I am missing some sort of return spring or travel limiter on the cylinder?

eric924run

pictures could help. the travel is limited by the clutch its self. maybe the release bearing is broken or worn out.

snobdds

You probably didn't put the clutch fork on the pivot ball right and it only seems like the slave cylinder is the problem.

peow130

Okay well, you bench bleed the clutch and brake master, and you just put the clutch slave on the bellhousing.

When you bleed the masters, don't push the rods all the way in, trust me, you'll have to start over and it's a real pita to get them back out. (Think air nozzle and alot of brake fluid in the air).

Just push them in maybe 1/2" to 3/4", enough to cycle fluid through.

When you connect them to the firewall, leave the bleeder hoses in, fill the reservoir, bolt them to the firewall, then connect the lines. You'll lose fluid, but don't let them run out, or you gotta bench bleed them again, or you gotta get somebody to help you bleed them on the truck.

As for the clutch slave, there really isnt any bleeding involved, fill it with fluid, put it on the bellhousing, bolt on the line, and then bleed any air out of the line like you normally would.

Jomoka

Perhaps the clutch pedal isn't letting the master cylinder piston retract all the way? If it doesn't come all the way back, it can act as a one way valve, and pump up the slave cylinder. when it retracts all the way it uncovers the passage way from the slave cylinder to the reservoir to allow it to retract and dump the fluid back in the reservoir.

There's probably a length adjustment on the pushrod between the pedal and master cylinder?

Denver86-22r

Thanks for the advice(s), i'll put up some pictures here today if I don't get it to work

blake.nemitz

for a temporary solution why not just take some round stock and make one thats a little longer. maybe the throwout bearing is too short to meet the pressure plate properly and the cluth fork has to overextend to engage. if you had a longer rod in the slave cylinder it would more than likely make up the difference.

Denver86-22r

Ok here are pictures of what's going on.

Information that may be important.

I have the clutch fork positioned with the pivot ball spring clipped in position on the the round depression. I believe it is properly positioned. -> snobdds

Bearings are all brand new- eric924run

The clutch fork is clipped with the two metal clips but nothing else to the release bearing assembly. -> Blake.nemitz

The parts are not OEM, they are just from carquest. Side by side with old cylinder they seem to be the same in all dimensions.

I love the idea of making a new cylinder interior from round stock but am not equipped to do so. ->blake.nemitz

Thanks again everyone, I'm feeling a breakthrough on this lovely beast soon . . . .

Mandy Tuning

seems the fork is out of the pivot and went to one side

snobdds

Yep. In the 1st photo you can see the fork is about an inch past where the "old boot mark" is. There is a slight color difference where there is rust and no rust.

Denver86-22r

So this is a drop the tranny again kind of thing huh? Damn. Thanks everybody. .

peow130

Might try repositioning the fork without dropping the tranny. I don't remember if our clutch forks can be repositioned like that or not, but it's worth a shot.

thook

Granted, I'm looking a pictures, so hard to judge scale, but it looks to me like the fork is too long and/or protruding too far out for the slave piston land squarely on the tip. The tip should only extend about an 1" from the bellhousing boot.

Denver86-22r

Thanks for all the help and advice, you all were right who said the clutch fork wasn't installed correctly. I found a picture of the fork here in the forums and (after dropping the tranny again) put the thing on properly before reinstalling the transmission.

Then I put the truck together minus driveshafts to check that the shift levers and transmission worked. They did except it was in 3, 4, 5, and R only and I did not notice .

The good news is the clutch did work properly with for those other gears.

I've done some more research and found out that I need to find a G54 transmission/transfer case that work to put in my beast.

New questions,

Can I pull any other transmissions that will bolt in painlessly? (relatively)

Are you or someone you know in Denver area in possession of a G54 transmission that is extra? I've seen martin's site.

Do you have some sort of business in Denver that you own/work for/recommend to rebuild the old one or should I just drain it and recycle it?

I know about the Yoda Jim pull'n'save, any other yards/sources you suggest for a tranny?

The picture is of properly installed clutch fork clips in my broken transmission.

Thanks again for all of your help!