I love seafoam. I do it to a new car everytime. Now im gonna start using 44k in my trucks twice a year. The stuff is amazing. Works so well, it got rid of a hesistation our f150 had that seafoam or any gas additives could get rid of.

Off to go buy some now

 

Well it might have made little diffrence in my idle but i really can't see a real noticeable improvement.. I still have the hesitation.. We will see if it helps my gas milage but it was already great IMO

 

Well as long as you check codes regularly thats cool.

Well I dont think thats much of a worry because the amount that gets through these hoses shouldnt be anywhere close to enough to do so. Plus since it IS formulated to be in the engine Im sure it has enough lubrication to prevent hydrolocking. But hey I guess it could be possible, just not probable, LOL

 

Ever since revving really high to get all the gunk and exhaust out a few days ago, i've been hearing a scratching/chattering kind of sound. I heard it for the first time when i was idle at a red light..it was LOUD and very distinct. I revved it once and it died down. Since then I can hear just a little bit of it usually when I'm decellerating.

It sounds like its coming from around the intake...Could it be the MAS? What could i have broken by revving it maybe around 5k rpms?
I dont recall ever revving it that high before.

It hasnt affected the performance, but I hate the noise and want to get rid of it because it's not normal. Does anyone have any idea what this could be?

 

It's "formulated to be the engine" as a vapor when mixed in with your fuel; or in small quantities through the intake.

Having "enough lubrication" has nothing to do with hydrolocking, hydrolocking is caused by something getting into the cylinders that can't compress - like a liquid (re: "HYDRO" locking). A liquid, like water, SeaFoam, oil, etc. is VERY dense and as such won't compress as the piston comes up into the cylinder. When that happens, something has to give in order for the pressure to be relieved - that's often a connecting rod but can also be a head gasket, a cylinder wall, a valve stem, rings... None of possibilities are "good", all of them require the engine to be torn down for repair - IF it can be repaired.

http://www.answers.com/hydrolock?ff=1

http://www.prepsparkplugs.com/hydrofact.htm


Bottom line - pouring SeaFoam into the intake _CAN_ hydrolock the engine. You need to do it slow.

 

seafoam =the ▓▓▓▓. Made my 97 4runner run twice as good, has the same pep as when i first bought it now.

 

from http://www.prepsparkplugs.com/hydrofact.htm

Thereby to hydrolock you'd need to inject the Sea Foam @ a rate of 1.5 ounces (or better) per the time it takes a cylinder to complete the intake stroke @ idle rpm. 1/2 revolution then of the crankshaft=1 stroke in 1/800 of a minute by 1/2 (1/1600 of a minute, for perspective, that amount of time would make a SECOND seem like an ETERNITY).

1 can Sea Foam=16.9 ounces.

So that's roughly 1/10 of a can of Sea Foam SHOT DIRECTLY INTO ONE COMBUSTION CHAMBER IN A NANOSECOND, to theoretically cause harmfull pressures.

GOOD LUCK!!!!!!!!!!!! Just trying to make it all go straight into the one cylinder is going to be tough enough.

P.S., that rate will have to be SIGNIFICANTLY increased if the rpm of the engine is higher the 800 rpm stated.(3VZE idle speed)

Where's all the "I HYDROLOCKED MY ENGINE WITH SEA FOAM!" threads then? Not gonna happen.

 

Did a friend's T-100 the other night... Same results as I've had with many other vehicles.

Smoother idle, increased mileage (about 1.5mpg after the first tank), cleared up some knocking issues (143k, never had anything like this done), and all starting with a WONDERFUL smoke cloud!

 

I love the seafoam. I didn't even have to pour it in. Attach a hose to the vacumme line, it'll suck up the stuff by itself. use one hand to keep the idle up.
The result is better mileage and smoother acceleration. I did it twice...1/2 can at a time.

 

here's a question on the seafoam install:

i have a problem with my idle sticking a little high, apparently the flap inside the manifold is sticking a little bit. i lift the gas pedal with my toe to make it drop, but this is annoying when trying to go from 1st to reverse quickly. so i was interested in getting the seafoam directly in through the front of the manifold so it would get the flap mechanism. but when i disconnect the plastic air pipe (which crosses over from the air filter box) the motor chokes out immediately. i've tried to hold the throttle open but its not having it. as soon as i separate the pipe from the manifold, it cuts off.

should i bother with trying to feed it in from the front, or do you think through the pvc will be enough to cure my sticky flap? i've already gone in there with a rag, but haven't used anything serious, like carb cleaner sprays yet. i was thinking a seafoam treatment would be sufficient as long as i induce it correctly.

any suggestions?

 

tj884rdlx,
I'd use an EFI cleaner in a spray can and just spray into the TB first. Use a rag to wipe excess. You should spray at the spring assembly too.
As soon as the MAF sense no air flow, the computer cuts off the engine. Your best bet is to use the cleaner.

 

My brothers a mech, now works for Toyota, used to work for Merchant's. Merchant's calls it a "3 step" and charges about 80 bucks for the service. Seafoam does the same thing and you can pick up a bottle for about $7. He recommended it for my 89 22re pickup which I just bought with 150k. Worked great. Better mileage, idle and power is for sure. Though he said not to let it sit more than 2 min when used through brake booster line.

 

(pulls the MDS on SeaFoam from the corporate site)

Pale Oil
Naphtha

Well - its refined petrol products.

So its not quite the same thing as the old water trick

 

Since this topic has been brough back thought I would as a seafoam related question.

going on a little trip, going to be driving probibly 1.5 hours, stoping for 2 hours (ferry) then driving another 2 hours on the hwy. Think this would be a good time to dump a can into my gas and let it do its thing on the hwy?

 

let it get all the smoke out at your home first. if its anything like my truck, the smoke was thick and white for about 10 minutes...id be afraid to drive it in traffic...could cause some trouble lol.

 

Although seafoam did help my idle and give me a little bit more power, it also killed my 4 month old o2 sensor, that kind of sucked because they are not cheap from Toyota, and i thought if i got Toyota parts i wouldn't have to replace it any time soon

 

Just do it before your trip. It will attract A LOT of attention on the highway. Its not something that needs to be done very often either so one dose before your trip will be good for a long time.

 

Im thinking about doing this to a 91 pickup with 200,000+ miles and my 99 4runner with 75,000 miles. It feels weird thinking about pouring things into my trucks that don't usually go into it, but all I hear are good things so Im going to have to try it.

It shouldn't matter that it has a lot of miles and its never had this done right? Just thinking how its not a good idea to switch to synthetic after to many miles or you might get leaks.

 

Umm, don't do it.

Two things... 1) You'll attract some "interesting" attention being under the hood of your rig, with the engine running, while on the ferry.

2) Starting said rig on the ferry after a 2 hour SeaFoam soak will SMOKE OUT the ferry. If you've never done this, then you really can't imagine just how much smoke we're talking about. The last time I did it here, I smoked out a 10 house cul-de-sac.

Given all the freaking out that people do since 9-11, I would lay good money on you being questioned for quite some time as you come off the boat.



Nope, it'll be fine. In fact you'll enjoy the heightened drama of the smoke-out effects.

 

Actualy I have done seafoam before. I put half a can through my brake booster back in febuary before I got the truck smogged.
Hardly any smoke. Well I will hold off on it then.