SCUBA needs help
09-29-2008, 11:14 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
SCUBA needs help
Alright guys im going to give everyone the lowdown before i start asking questions...
About 2 weeks ago i parked at a Toyota dealer to get a new air filter, as i was leaving, my 91 22re, w/ an 86 22re, which is fresh with only 80k on it, wouldnt stay running. I realized my drive-shaft had wore a hole through my gas tank due to bad u-joints.
I sourced a new tank, took the fuel filter that was in the old tank (less the 1000 Miles on it) and put it in the new tank, got the tank in there, and now...!!! drum rolll please, the truck only stays running with the fuel pump test jumper connected.
Now, I CAN here the circuit opening relay clicking, so i've ruled that out.
I did replace the EFI fuse tonight.
When i Jump the FP and B terminals in the diagnostics box, it runs like nothing was ever wrong, Yet, without the jumper, the FP doesn't make the whining noise, and the truck wont run more the 5 secs
After checking the AFM with the voltmeter, im getting weird readings, im leaning towards it, but why the afm now, i mean it just seems weird that it goes right after this fuel tank mishap
I've quadruple checked my connections, everythings good, but im at a loss as to where and what i should start checking with my voltmeter...
any help would be greatly appreciated
About 2 weeks ago i parked at a Toyota dealer to get a new air filter, as i was leaving, my 91 22re, w/ an 86 22re, which is fresh with only 80k on it, wouldnt stay running. I realized my drive-shaft had wore a hole through my gas tank due to bad u-joints.
I sourced a new tank, took the fuel filter that was in the old tank (less the 1000 Miles on it) and put it in the new tank, got the tank in there, and now...!!! drum rolll please, the truck only stays running with the fuel pump test jumper connected.
Now, I CAN here the circuit opening relay clicking, so i've ruled that out.
I did replace the EFI fuse tonight.
When i Jump the FP and B terminals in the diagnostics box, it runs like nothing was ever wrong, Yet, without the jumper, the FP doesn't make the whining noise, and the truck wont run more the 5 secs
After checking the AFM with the voltmeter, im getting weird readings, im leaning towards it, but why the afm now, i mean it just seems weird that it goes right after this fuel tank mishap
I've quadruple checked my connections, everythings good, but im at a loss as to where and what i should start checking with my voltmeter...
any help would be greatly appreciated
Last edited by scuba; 09-29-2008 at 11:29 PM.
09-30-2008, 06:51 AM
#4
Registered User
I'll bite. I'm at work and bored.
K, dug up the wiring diagrams for your truck. You say by jumping Pin8 and Pin1 you can fire it up and she runs fine. With the key cranking, check for battery voltage at Pin8. I expect you'll find none. Pin8 get's power from the Blue wire at the Circuit Opening relay. Power is supplied to the COR by the White-Red wire. Ground is supplied to the COR through the AFM, but you've already established that it's okay since you can feel it closing (clicking) when attempting to start the truck.
The Fix;
I would tap into the COR and verify that it is infact sending 12V down the Blue line. I think it's not. If not, remove the COR and jump pin 1 & 2, and attempt to start the truck. If that works, the COR is dead. If it still doesn't run you've got a break (open) in the wire between the COR Pin1 and the fuel pump. You're on your own to find that one. But you know it's "between" the Test connector and the COR, and not on the frame rail somewhere.
Hope that helps.
K, dug up the wiring diagrams for your truck. You say by jumping Pin8 and Pin1 you can fire it up and she runs fine. With the key cranking, check for battery voltage at Pin8. I expect you'll find none. Pin8 get's power from the Blue wire at the Circuit Opening relay. Power is supplied to the COR by the White-Red wire. Ground is supplied to the COR through the AFM, but you've already established that it's okay since you can feel it closing (clicking) when attempting to start the truck.
The Fix;
I would tap into the COR and verify that it is infact sending 12V down the Blue line. I think it's not. If not, remove the COR and jump pin 1 & 2, and attempt to start the truck. If that works, the COR is dead. If it still doesn't run you've got a break (open) in the wire between the COR Pin1 and the fuel pump. You're on your own to find that one. But you know it's "between" the Test connector and the COR, and not on the frame rail somewhere.
Hope that helps.
Last edited by Noltz; 09-30-2008 at 06:52 AM.
09-30-2008, 06:54 AM
#5
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Orlando, FL
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I'll bite. I'm at work and bored.
K, dug up the wiring diagrams for your truck. You say by jumping Pin8 and Pin1 you can fire it up and she runs fine. With the key cranking, check for battery voltage at Pin8. I expect you'll find none. Pin8 get's power from the Blue wire at the Circuit Opening relay. Power is supplied to the COR by the White-Red wire. Ground is supplied to the COR through the AFM, but you've already established that it's okay since you can feel it closing (clicking) when attempting to start the truck.
The Fix;
I would tap into the COR and verify that it is infact sending 12V down the Blue line. I think it's not. If not, remove the COR and jump pin 1 & 2, and attempt to start the truck. If that works, the COR is dead. If it still doesn't run you've got a break (open) in the wire between the COR Pin1 and the fuel pump. You're on your own to find that one. But you know it's "between" the Test connector and the COR, and not on the frame rail somewhere.
Hope that helps.
K, dug up the wiring diagrams for your truck. You say by jumping Pin8 and Pin1 you can fire it up and she runs fine. With the key cranking, check for battery voltage at Pin8. I expect you'll find none. Pin8 get's power from the Blue wire at the Circuit Opening relay. Power is supplied to the COR by the White-Red wire. Ground is supplied to the COR through the AFM, but you've already established that it's okay since you can feel it closing (clicking) when attempting to start the truck.
The Fix;
I would tap into the COR and verify that it is infact sending 12V down the Blue line. I think it's not. If not, remove the COR and jump pin 1 & 2, and attempt to start the truck. If that works, the COR is dead. If it still doesn't run you've got a break (open) in the wire between the COR Pin1 and the fuel pump. You're on your own to find that one. But you know it's "between" the Test connector and the COR, and not on the frame rail somewhere.
Hope that helps.
Fink
09-30-2008, 08:50 AM
#6
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Join Date: Sep 2008
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The 2 weak links are the mechanical ones, the switch in the afm and the relay itself. Ive seen a few relays that will click but still dont work because the contacts arent coming together when its energized. Check for continuity on the brown and green/yellow wires when you push the afm flap inside open .If thats good than Id double check that relay to make sure it has 12v to the white and red wire on the relay and if you do, Id say the relay is shot
09-30-2008, 09:08 AM
#7
Sounds like you pulled something loose when you dropped the tank. Happened last weekend on Rock Slide's 3rd gen when he accidentally dropped one end of the gas tank while changing out the skid. Pulled some of the pins/wires out of the top.
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09-30-2008, 09:50 AM
#8
Simple AFM test:
1. Crack the cold start injector line open
2. Undo the air cleaner top half
3. Stick your hand in and manually open the flapper valve
If fuel comes spraying out of the open cold start line, you at least know its operating the fuel pump.
Want me to bring a spare down to Cali with me in Oct?
09-30-2008, 12:15 PM
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
I'll bite. I'm at work and bored.
K, dug up the wiring diagrams for your truck. You say by jumping Pin8 and Pin1 you can fire it up and she runs fine. With the key cranking, check for battery voltage at Pin8. I expect you'll find none. Pin8 get's power from the Blue wire at the Circuit Opening relay. Power is supplied to the COR by the White-Red wire. Ground is supplied to the COR through the AFM, but you've already established that it's okay since you can feel it closing (clicking) when attempting to start the truck.
The Fix;
I would tap into the COR and verify that it is infact sending 12V down the Blue line. I think it's not. If not, remove the COR and jump pin 1 & 2, and attempt to start the truck. If that works, the COR is dead. If it still doesn't run you've got a break (open) in the wire between the COR Pin1 and the fuel pump. You're on your own to find that one. But you know it's "between" the Test connector and the COR, and not on the frame rail somewhere.
Hope that helps.
K, dug up the wiring diagrams for your truck. You say by jumping Pin8 and Pin1 you can fire it up and she runs fine. With the key cranking, check for battery voltage at Pin8. I expect you'll find none. Pin8 get's power from the Blue wire at the Circuit Opening relay. Power is supplied to the COR by the White-Red wire. Ground is supplied to the COR through the AFM, but you've already established that it's okay since you can feel it closing (clicking) when attempting to start the truck.
The Fix;
I would tap into the COR and verify that it is infact sending 12V down the Blue line. I think it's not. If not, remove the COR and jump pin 1 & 2, and attempt to start the truck. If that works, the COR is dead. If it still doesn't run you've got a break (open) in the wire between the COR Pin1 and the fuel pump. You're on your own to find that one. But you know it's "between" the Test connector and the COR, and not on the frame rail somewhere.
Hope that helps.
anyway, when you say pin 8, were talking the one on the diagnostics box..?
and pin 8 is the FP one rather then the B+ on correct...?
or the other way around...?
when checking for voltage at the FP terminal on my diagnostic box i get no reading whatsoever and the b is open, because its the ground it the equation...yes?
Moving to the COR.
Even though i can here it clicking, it could be bad ?
Thanks for your help, i will post more with what i find
Last edited by scuba; 09-30-2008 at 12:18 PM.
09-30-2008, 12:41 PM
#13
Registered User
Thread Starter
found it..While checking for resistances as per 4crawler, im testeing the plug, or the cor itself ?
im gitting open/ no resistance in either.
and the blue wire is giving me no voltage whatsoever.
when he says jump pins 1 And 2.
Which ones...and where
im gitting open/ no resistance in either.
and the blue wire is giving me no voltage whatsoever.
when he says jump pins 1 And 2.
Which ones...and where
09-30-2008, 01:32 PM
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
Ok, im thinking you meant jump the pins the connector itself, and rereading your (noltz) reply for the 52374 time, i jumped the blue and the red wire on the plug for the COR, SHE RUNS !!!
Next question, would it be harmful to keep the jumper in there and run the truck ??
Like...go to the pismo beach run next week...
im about to call toyota and figure out how much on of these things is
Next question, would it be harmful to keep the jumper in there and run the truck ??
Like...go to the pismo beach run next week...
im about to call toyota and figure out how much on of these things is
09-30-2008, 01:40 PM
#15
Ok, im thinking you meant jump the pins the connector itself, and rereading your (noltz) reply for the 52374 time, i jumped the blue and the red wire on the plug for the COR, SHE RUNS !!!
Next question, would it be harmful to keep the jumper in there and run the truck ??
Like...go to the pismo beach run next week...
im about to call toyota and figure out how much on of these things is
Next question, would it be harmful to keep the jumper in there and run the truck ??
Like...go to the pismo beach run next week...
im about to call toyota and figure out how much on of these things is
09-30-2008, 03:27 PM
#18
Registered User
Thread Starter
EYCHI WAWAA!!!
103. Special order from the Toystealer down the street
Ill deff be calling DC back on friday to place that order.
Btw, DC is a very helpful guy.
oh and, home depot will be my first stop after school tomorrow, going to make a better jumper so it doesnt short, and i can run the truck until i get the new COR in.
Thanks for everyones help, I had member raginyota trippin last night b/c in qutar he can see the wiring diagram, so he was doing his best anyway.
And a big thanks to him also !!
103. Special order from the Toystealer down the street
Ill deff be calling DC back on friday to place that order.
Btw, DC is a very helpful guy.
oh and, home depot will be my first stop after school tomorrow, going to make a better jumper so it doesnt short, and i can run the truck until i get the new COR in.
Thanks for everyones help, I had member raginyota trippin last night b/c in qutar he can see the wiring diagram, so he was doing his best anyway.
And a big thanks to him also !!
09-30-2008, 03:34 PM
#20
Registered User
Hey Scuba. Sorry I couldn't get back to ya.. got stuck doing a Avalon timing belt!
I have access to Snap-On's "ShopKey" service manuals. Here's the diagram I'm talking about. Hopefully it makes sense;
I have access to Snap-On's "ShopKey" service manuals. Here's the diagram I'm talking about. Hopefully it makes sense;
