That should make the pin identification easier. I added a bit of colour (yah, I'm Canadian and it's colour) to the relavent circuits. As seen, the fuel pump has a constant ground source, and it's power that's switched on-off to it by way of the COR. The COR itself is switched by controlling the ground supplied to it through the air-flow meter. Power for the relay itself and the fuel pump is supplied from pins 1 & 8 of the ECU.

Before you leave your jumper wire in there, make sure you do NOT have power on the #2 pin (Red w/White wire) with the key off. If you do, you'll have to install a manual switch and use some speaker wire to turn the pump on and off in. Leaving it jumpered will make the pump run 24/7 and kill your battery. If it shuts off with the key, then a jumper is acceptable as a temporary fix.

 

Yeah, i was planning on just leaving the kickpanel off, rigging some kind of male connector with the wires crimped.
Now the one i need to check for power with the key off is going to be pin 2 on the COR connector itself...correct..?
And call me stupid, but the voltmeter needs to be on one of the settings othe then OHM's...correct ??

I think its time to finally put this useless switch thats next to my steering wheel to good use, well, at least for a couple days..

BTW, noltz you have been very helpful and i appreciate it

 

sounds like a lot of work.

got a question though, cause I didn't see it dealt with in the rest of the thread: withOUT the jumper, cranking the engine results in the engine doing what... starting and running for a few moments then dying or not starting at all?

I ask because the COR has TWO parallel coils that can activate the relay- one from the ignition switch and one from the AFM contacts.

If it starts then dies, that indicates the ignition switch is able to pull the relay closed and energize the pump but the AFM is not able to keep the relay closed. Therefore the suspects would be the wiring between the COR and the AFM and / or the COR and AFM themselves.

 

Yes, you're correct. Remove the COR (like you did before to test) and check for 12v at the pin with the key off. If there is no power with the key off, the jumper can be left in place until the COR can be replaced.

If there is constantly 12v at the #2 pin, regardless of key position, then you must wire in your temporary switch in place of the jumper.

The volt meter should be set to 20V DC range. Ohm setting may fry your meter.

abecedarian, you're absolutely correct. Ideally we'd test for a ground signal on the #4 pin with the jumper in place and the truck running. But from what I read the truck would not start at all, indicating a constant fuel delivery issue at all times. While diagnosing from 1000 miles away is far from a science, I've yet to replace a MAF for a bad ground signal, but I've done probably 5 COR's for contact points burning out. Good to see another tech-head on here though

 

Yeah, I actually was on the phone with ABE for about an hour and a half going over your wiring diagram. He did tell me to test pin 4 with the jumper installed and truck on, but before i do that i will make sure to do what you said.
EDIT: I was planning on putting a fuse inline for the switch, anyone have an idea for the proper size i should run ?

Man i owe a bunch of guys beer

Thanks buddy

 

Glad to help. PM me with the results

 

actually, scuba says in the first post that without the FP/B+ jumper that the truck starts and runs for about 5 seconds before dying. That implies that the ignition switch side of the COR is operating, which infers the COR is at least partially operational.
I suggested he test from the terminal in the COR socket that connects through the AFM switch for continuity to ground... with the engine running, COR removed and the FP jumpered on... and should it test as continuous with ground (0 ohm). Should that be true, the problem would appear to be within the COR itself.

 

ABE! before you leave texas...can you bring me back a case of Lone Star beer...?
ill pay you for it and then some

 

uhh....

...

...

???

I was okay with it until you said "and then some".

 

as in and extra 5 bucks or so for the trouble....gahh
youve been away from your wife for too long

 

How bout some WA beer? Lol we have a ton of Micro breweries here.

 

dude, im not sure whats the specialty up there, but i mean, if you really wanna bring me a 6 pack of something you like, Im down.
Im no fan of ales though
But yeah, like I said, If you REALLy want to and happen to remember before you come, do it !

 

Yeah man not a problem, always willing to try and help. If I could have only seen the schematics it would have helped. Gotta love military blocking almost ever site that I enjoy going to.... except YT... Hope you find the gremlin and kick his ass...

Laterz

 

So as per Noltz instructions, i have no power with the key off.
GOOD.

Now as per abes instructions, with the jumper in the cor connector, engine running, checking the wire that goes to the AFM the needle on my voltmeter doesnt move ??

 

(Scube aka Steven) If ya PM me with the right kind of WHEATE beer I'm all yours....!


I'm yours anyways... Lemme look thorugh and see whassup!

 

After looking for like 2 seconds... um your engine dies after about 5 seconds? Have ya changed out the fuel filter? Prolly but I had to ask!

 

Lol, all mine ??
I dont think TC would like that too much
Fuel pump && Fuel filter was changed ~~1000 miles ago, way before this problem even started, so those should not be a problem

I think we have tracked it down to the Circuit Opening Relay, but, After what abe told me to do to check for continuity between the COR and the AFM, im at a loss.

Bout to PM user BigT cause what he posted way up there sounds legible now.
So we will see.

EDIT:
Abe, Looking at the wiring diagram, im starting to think i should check for continuity at the afm side of that circuit, and lets not quote my results on that continuity test just yet, i think my AFM might not have been plugged in.
But we will see...Whoops

 

Well Mister Scuba Steve, my question is...did you happen to make sure that you hooked the gas lines up properly, I mean, i know theres only 3, but the 2 that arent the hard line could be backwards.
Before you start going to all this electrical this electrical that BS why dont you check to make sure you hooked everything up correctly.

So this thread is sorta useless.
After about the 2nd or 3rd day of being near my truck, and smelling gas, but seeing no obvious leak, the pressure must have built up enough to spit the gas out of the charcoal canister purge valve
Note :
hmm.
: : :

Thanks for the help guys, I think im going to cancel my YT account now cause i think im oficially labeled the biggest tard ever
Oh and the COR that i did order from Deathcougar, well at least i have a
trail spare now

 

Glad You Solved It Now Get Over Here And Help Me With My 2 Runners

 

/me points finger at steven and lolz

j/k