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SAS wheel studs

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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 09:11 AM
  #1  
one2high's Avatar
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From: Wellsboro, PA.
SAS wheel studs

Does anyone have a cure for running Eagle wheels with an 85 front axle and vented rotors/94 calipers? I only have about 1/4" of threads left to put the lugnuts on with! The center of the wheel is too thick and in PA. you can't run wheel spacers to remedy this. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 09:13 AM
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From: St. Loser, Misery
maybe get some different wheels?
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 09:13 AM
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From: Vian, OK
get some longer studs...........if u can
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 09:15 AM
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New wheels is'nt an option! also, checked all local sources for longer studs but no luck.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 09:17 AM
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From: Vian, OK
well then check out further..it doesnt have to be local..and if u checked today..any parts store can have them in about 2 or 3 days at most..
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 09:20 AM
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From: Solano Co, CA Originally a North Idaho Hick
Ditch the wheels. Black steelies are like $30 a piece. If you can't afford that I'd hate to see how pieced together your SAS is.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 09:57 AM
  #7  
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From: Souderton, PA
wheel spacers not legal in PA?

hummmm thought that up to 1/4" spacers were legal....

Last edited by 4banginRunner; Mar 23, 2008 at 09:59 AM.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 10:14 AM
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From: Grass Valley, CA
Got a picture? This doesnt really make sense because that means you are running your front axle 3 inches narrower than the rear. and im pretty sure all studs on yotas axles are the same length. Why cant you run spacers?
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 11:23 AM
  #9  
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From: St. Loser, Misery
Originally Posted by WCorbett
Got a picture? This doesnt really make sense because that means you are running your front axle 3 inches narrower than the rear. and im pretty sure all studs on yotas axles are the same length. Why cant you run spacers?
A pic would definitely help..

Im having a hard time visualizing too..

what rotors are you running? vented FJ80?
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 05:45 PM
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From: Wellsboro, PA.
I am running both 85 front and rear axles with disc brakes on both axles. The front axle with the vented rotors and 94 calipers does'nt leave enough room for the wider aluminum wheels. I tried putting 1/4" spacers to clear the calipers and that only leaves about a 1/4" of stud for the lugnuts. Also, UKMyers, I have done an LT1 vette motor swap along with this SAS and it is'nt pieced together. I can't justify spending that much more for other wheels when these are already paid for. I have TG front springs and Downey rears with new shackles and axles are rebuilt from the inside out. I have a T350 tranny with a 205 TC and a 12" splined front shaft and the rear is stock except for the GM joint on the front end. I used 12" Bilst's on the front and 10" on the rear. I used Chevy truck rotors for the rear conversion and the wheels fit fine. It is only the front that I have a problem with. If I don't put any spacers in, the wheels rub on the calipers(both sides). I have even tried to grind some of the caliper to help but they still rub. I just need studs which are about a 1/2" longer than stock. I put the vented FJ rotors on the front with my original 94 calipers and this is what everyone recommended. Everything was going great til I tried putting the wheels on. I have Eagle 589's(15X10) with Super Swamper Trxus 33X12.50's. The wheels are back-spaced for the straight axle, not the IFS. If someone would kindly explain how to post some pic's, I will get some tomorrow and post them for all to see. Thanks for the responses.

Last edited by one2high; Mar 23, 2008 at 05:48 PM.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 06:06 PM
  #11  
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From: Solano Co, CA Originally a North Idaho Hick
I went with 2" spacers and 2.5" backspaced wheels on mine to alleviate all the clearance issues. Sorry for the comment earlier but I found it interesting you spent thousands of dollars building your rig and didn't want to suck up another couple hundred for wheels that fit properly. I sold my chrome ones on craigslist when I built mine and actually came out ahead still when I bought the steelies with the money.



Crap I keep forgetting I need to build a tab for that hardline.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 07:00 PM
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From: Wellsboro, PA.
I want to keep the aluminum wheels due to the extra gerth of the V8. I have the Hy-steer kit coming this week and am building another front axle due to the original one I used is bent. I found this out when I tried to do the front end alignment. I used an 85 steering box with a 3" drop pitman but all of that needs taken off and my 94 box re-installed for the hy-steer. I thought about using Sky's spacer kit for IFS hubs but that will increase my axle width and I am putting 36X14.50's on when these tires are worn out. In PA, the road surface tread must be covered and you can only have a 3" flare maximum. I have molded a set of Bushwacker flares in both front and rear and I need the axles to stay as narrow as possible. I still need to know how to post pic's!!
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 07:27 PM
  #13  
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From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
Upload your pictures onto a host website:

I use www.photobucket.com
www.imageshack.us is good, you don't need an account there.

Post the url of the uploaded picture into your post like this " [img]URL HERE[/img] with no spaces.
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Old Mar 24, 2008 | 04:56 PM
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From: Wellsboro, PA.
Ok, here goes with the pic's..., , , , , . I hope these turn out! The one with the most stud sticking out is with the 1/4" spacer removed.
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