...if I can wiggle the wheel up and down by hand and see movement/play at the top ball joint?

Thought it was the bottom joint so bought both of those, but now I think it was really the top. Oh well, I guess I'll be doing all four now.

Problem is, when I went to remove the bottom ball joint, I could NOT get it to press out of the lower arm. I tried a ball joint press, sledge, a little heat and PB Blaster. No dice. Did not have a pickle fork but not sure it would have budged.

It doesn't take much for me to decide something is more trouble than it's worth, so I'm going to get a price from dealer to install my OEM ball joints for me. I'll bring a shot of whiskey in case the pain is too much.

Even if I did eventually get the first one, I can't imagine battling three more.

 

The lower one has a slot you can fit a flat screwdriver into. Get the fattest one you have, or maybe a small chisel, and whack it in there. It will come apart. I was surprised at how hard it was to remove, but it comes out.

 

Here's a video I made on how to replace ball joints and TRE's. Skip to 4:39 to see how to do the lowers.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1BHYWTabl4

And while you're at it, here's how I installed BJ spacers.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FedFnMQoQZk

 

Thanks a lot for that. It's nice to see it actually demonstrated.

My problem was not separating the ball joint from the steering knuckle, as mine came apart pretty easily. My problem was removing the ball joint from the lower arm. I ruined a puller trying to get it off. I was cranking the puller with a cheater bar---enough to mushroom the ball joint bolt and the puller bolt! I can't seem to find a good place to strike the joint with a hammer once I have pressure on it. It's stuck good.

Like I said, I haven't tried a pickle fork but I doubt it can apply any more force that the puller. Don't know why mine is so stuck.

I even applied a little heat with a mini torch. I didn't want to get to carried away because I was afraid of altering the metal structure.

I got a steel rod against the lower arm and struck it with a sledge. I also struck the bolt itself, both while the puller was loaded. Sprayed with PB. No dice.

Not sure where else to strike, spray, heat, pry, pull or wedge...
Sucks.

 

Oh. Strange. Usually if tightening the puller doesn't get it off, a few good whacks right on the top of the puller bolt will pop the ball joint out. But it sounds like you tried that.

Skip to 0:30 in this video and see if his method can be applied to the Toyota lower ball joint. This is a Honda Accord but his method might work. Basically the ratchet handle is placed between the knuckle and LCA. When the jack is quickly lowered, the suspension extends, and the ratchet handle is pinched between them. The handle isn't going to compress but the strut is strong enough that it's not going to stop either, so the tapered part of the ball joint is forced out of the LCA.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0RbVQ1dk6is

 

As a matter of fact, I saw that video and wondered whether there was a point on the Toy that would allow for the technique. On a cursory look, I didn't see an obvious spot for the wrench to go but I kind of forgot to take a closer look.

I might explore that one depending on how much the dealer wants to charge.

 

If you have the correct puller and you have heat, you have all the same tools the dealer has. All you're paying for is for them to heat, bang, and press harder than you did.

 

Huh... funny, i had the opposite problem, getting the lower balljoints out of the knuckles. I had to remove them and use a 2 jaw puller to "push" the balljoints out of the bottom. All the hammering into that slot did nothing. The balljoints were literally rusted to the arms....