Batman

i have an 87 4runner, with a 22re. ive one over the wiring system 20 times, checked and rechecked timing, ive done alot of work trying to figure out my dilema but i cant find the answer to my problem... my problem is is that my truck has a constant miss on cylinder 2, now, i know the problem isnt the injectors or wires, or timing, leaks, or bad compression. its just one of those things thats a complete confusing mess... if anyone has any kind of ideas, any at all it would be greatly appreciated, ive been unable to drive it for about 8 months... and im not a happy camper!!!

spanish-road

check the basic stuff fuel air spark on that cylinder. check the points, becasue if there is carbon build up then spark will be sluggish also at the base of the dizzy check that but be careful.

1989toy4wd

Try this...get the tank to about 1/4 full, then put 1 or 2 bottles of fuel injector cleaner in there...if the misfire stops its a sticking fuel injector...I am dealing with this problem now!!

If its not that, and you are sure its not anything else you have stated, then you are looking at a burnt valve, or a blown headgasket or somthing serious

abecedarian

so you've ohm'd the injector and it's good?
have you tried swapping injector plugs to see if the problem follows the wiring?

iamsuperbleeder

points?

I'll assume you mean the contacts inside the cap

yeah that could cause a constant cyl misfire


what cyl 2's spark plug look like?

Batman

triple check yes, carbon no, and dizzy fine

Batman

i swapped heads for a better one, valves are all good, no leaks there, and new headgasket of course, cuz that was one of my first thoughts, but i guess not.. ill try the injector cleaner cleaner when i can get my truck out of my garage

Batman

injectors are all in spec, tried swapping them out, that did nothing, i had the upper plenum off for about a week and i put everything back together, and it ran fin for about a week than same thing happened

Batman

too clean

abecedarian

so injectors are all in spec and you tried swapping injectors around... all fine and dandy....
did you try swapping plugs between injectors (which is what I asked but you didn't answer)?

Batman

srry for not answering your question, i was elsewhere while typing... umm yea, i put new plugs in, tried it, rearanged wires and plugs and injectors.. and still the same results...

desertcox05

broken plug, wire not making good contact on the dizzy/plug, contact inside the dizzy cap gone or not aligned. those are my sugestions.

Flash319

How do you know it is number 2?

Batman

the plugs are fairly new, no cracks or broken pieces... wires are fairly new.. ill have to check the contacts with the dizzy

Batman

because i started pulling the wires from the dizy when it was running and when the one for cyl 2 was pulled nothin happened, and when pulled 1,3,4, the idle went down...and i pulled the wire from both ends, theres spark on both sides but no firing

desertcox05

spark plugs can be broken on the inside and not look bad fron the outside. i feel you should replace the plugs, wires.

Flash319

I would unplug that injector and run 12V to it. It should click. If not it is bad. Just because the coil shows a good reading does not mean that the injector is not stuck.

abecedarian

I wouldn't do that. It doesn't take much current to burn the coil out in an injector, particularly with low-impedence injectors. They are designed to be on for hundreths of a second at most and be cooled off by the fuel they're spraying. If it ohmed out okay then likely the injector is fine, well except for maybe leaking or bad spray pattern or crap plugging it up. A 'noid' light on the injecter plug will confirm if the injector is getting the pulse from the ECU to fire.


@Batman- how did you determine that compression isn't a problem? I'm assuming you did a compression test? Did you do a leakdown test? How does the sparkplug in that cylinder look? Have you double-checked the valve lash on that cylinder?

abecedarian

And to all- it's a 22re so no points to check. Just a rotor and hall-effect sensor... which brings to mind checking the air-gap between the rotor and hall-effect / pickup coil.

iamsuperbleeder

um, yeah, definately NOT a good idea... I don't even think they fire off a full 12v, do they?