[QUOTE=abecedarian;51116528]I wouldn't do that. It doesn't take much current to burn the coil out in an injector, particularly with low-impedence injectors. They are designed to be on for hundreths of a second at most and be cooled off by the fuel they're spraying. If it ohmed out okay then likely the injector is fine, well except for maybe leaking or bad spray pattern or crap plugging it up. A 'noid' light on the injecter plug will confirm if the injector is getting the pulse from the ECU to fire.



Do it all the time. You just touch it and it clicks. Checking the resistance does not tell you that it is work. It tells you that the coil is not broken but not that the pin is sliding.

 

so far every suggestion i tried which was all... its to no prevail... well thanx for all the help, i think ill just get rid of all the fuel injection crap and convert it over to a carb... mainly cuz less things to go wrong and easier to diagnose a problem..

 

Intake gasket at the head. My 86 did the same thing and after a Seafoam treatment I found a leak at the head. The intake gasket was leaking a little and the Seafoam pushed the broken piece of the gasket out.


Check the gasket between the intake tubes and the head.

Hope this helps.

 

Oh...
... so air bleeds, jets, accelerator pump stroke, needle valves, float, choke, choke pull off, high-altitude compensation, fuel-cut solenoid, vacuum advance, vacuum retard, fuel pressure, fuel return and vapor separation, EGR switching... those are so much less to deal with than EFI with its coolant temp, air flow, air temp, throttle position, O2 and distributor pick-up... and maybe knock and EGR temp sensors?

They both have spark plugs, valves, compression, pistons and wiring.

...not to mention that if you live in the USA, it's illegal to change EFI to carb unless your year vehicle came with a carb from the factory....

 

EEw. That sucks. I was thinking of a future project to convert mine to a carb. Guess that's out of the question now.

 

for starters im more knowledgeble with carbs than efi and where i live, theres no vehicle inspections, of any kind for my year of truck... and the only thing they do in my town is emission checks on vehicles 1996 and newer..

 

and dude... your such a buzz kill!!!

 

not trying to be... just keepin it real.

 

and... yeah, all those little things in carbs that affect everything and you have to mix and match and tweak... yet efi has a hand full of sensors and wires that either work or don't work- and you can test them all with a meter.

 

wow abes got the hate out for carbs lol

Have you compression tested the cylinder ?? Have you tried putting a test light on the injector for that cylinder make sure its pulsing??

Also, i don't think you can do this with a 4cyl and have it work still...but i know on a few v-8s the plug wires were completely wrong and the vehicle still ran just like ass. Your plug wires are on correctly i assume

Your timings good too ?

 

If the sparkplug is clean and dry, then that cylinder is not getting fuel. If it clean and wet, then it's not getting spark. If there is a vacuum leak, then IMO it should show the typical signs of one. I'm with Abe; EFI is usually not very hard to troubleshoot.

I think he meant the injector plugs(connectors), not the spark plugs. The answers I saw weren't clear to me. Which did you swap around?

If you rearranged the injectors and still have a dead cylinder, then there is probably a fault somewhere between the injector and the ECU assuming there is spark.

 

Ouch! Abe that was great lol. If anything I want to swap over to EFI on my 86, but...it's really not worth it $$ wise.

Also - the "tupac" quote in your sig is PRICELESS

 

in 87 toyota did have carbs so no big deal with that... and its only easier in my opinion czu thats all ive dealt with, since my first car, and if something goes wrong with a carb it can easily be rebuilt for cheap... so right now i might ot be a genious with them but i know how to use, tweek, and match parts and adjust carbs to make them run great...

 

as for the plugs they are brand spankin new ngk's it looks like that one aint gettin any gas czu it still looks new... and the wires are also brand new, only has about two minutes of wear on them... the timing is pretty damn close, i dont use a light for that on account ive only used one once on my first car... but the wires are all on where they need to be at, the compression checks out fine, i had a buddy check it and he never told me what it was at, but since he didnt make any comments im guessin its fine, and the injuecors have been replaced and rearranged, along with the plugs until i replaced them a few days ago... and im not one for troubleshooting, i just fix things,

 

all i know is that if i cant get this fricken motor to run on all four im gonna take it out put in a 350, take the old motor out back and shoot it

 

I'm in the same boat as you man. Misfire with cylinder 2. I've changed just about everything on this engine. All I have left is the ECU and the MAF sensor. And if that doesn't fix it the 22re has to go...

 

Like I said here:

Have you verified that the wiring is good and the injector plug terminals are clean and have good contact? A cheap noid light can be made from an LED and a resistor of the appropriate value for 12v....

 

x3 on the same problem with number 2 misfire. i have mine down to a fuel issue. tonight i was messing with it while it was running like poo. started wiggling plug wires, coil wires,etc and no change. but when i got to the injector harness and moved around it started running good! (the connections @ the injectors are good).

id pull the harness down and it would misfire on #2. pull the harness in the opposite direction and it would smooth right out. did that for about 10 min and it did the same thing every time so I'm sure its a bad connection in the harness.

before you shoot your engine, you might want to check into that..

 

ah, who's try'n to be legal anymore

 

and now for the fun-
the 22re injectors are all wired in parallel- all 4 fire at the same time.
If you switch say #2 and #3 injector plugs (they should reach) the problem should follow the plug from #2 to #3 if it's a wiring problem, or stay on #2 if its the injector... or something more mechanical like a sticking or mal-adjusted valve in #2.

"Noid" lights are great trouble shooters here too since they will reveal if the injector is getting a signal. No "flash" of the noid, no signal.