RTV on intake manifold gaskets? (Knock sensor replacement related question)
#21
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"There's yer problem, lady!"
Remember that you have to get three sprockets in sync, so you will (probably) need to adjust both cams. As you point out, the 3VZE is a non-interference engine so you can turn the cams once you've loosened the timing belt. (In an interference engine, you can feel the pistons pushing on valves, so you just let up and figure out what you did wrong. The problem is cranking it over with the powerful starter motor.) Because of the way the timing belt is retained on the crank sprocket, it's not easy to move the timing belt on that sprocket even when loose (which is exactly what you want). Again, it doesn't matter where the belt is on the sprockets, just that all three line up.
To remove the lower timing cover, you'll have to remove the crankshaft bolt (you know that). Absolutely doable, but a challenge. The spec tightening torque is 181 lb-ft, and you have to make a tool to keep the crankshaft from turning. But if you haven't retrieved that bolt yet, you're probably stuck with removing the lower cover. In which case, yeah, just replace the belt.
Others may disagree, but I think successfully replacing the timing belt is the task that separates the competent amateurs from the hacks. Are you up for it?
Remember that you have to get three sprockets in sync, so you will (probably) need to adjust both cams. As you point out, the 3VZE is a non-interference engine so you can turn the cams once you've loosened the timing belt. (In an interference engine, you can feel the pistons pushing on valves, so you just let up and figure out what you did wrong. The problem is cranking it over with the powerful starter motor.) Because of the way the timing belt is retained on the crank sprocket, it's not easy to move the timing belt on that sprocket even when loose (which is exactly what you want). Again, it doesn't matter where the belt is on the sprockets, just that all three line up.
To remove the lower timing cover, you'll have to remove the crankshaft bolt (you know that). Absolutely doable, but a challenge. The spec tightening torque is 181 lb-ft, and you have to make a tool to keep the crankshaft from turning. But if you haven't retrieved that bolt yet, you're probably stuck with removing the lower cover. In which case, yeah, just replace the belt.
Others may disagree, but I think successfully replacing the timing belt is the task that separates the competent amateurs from the hacks. Are you up for it?
Hi:
I rebuilt my V6 engine about 9-10 yrs ago.
I was careless when reassembling it, and this picture is the result.
I have no idea how long this situation existed, but as long as I can remember, the engine always made a weird sound from 2000 RPM onward.
Look at this and be careful.
Art
I rebuilt my V6 engine about 9-10 yrs ago.
I was careless when reassembling it, and this picture is the result.
I have no idea how long this situation existed, but as long as I can remember, the engine always made a weird sound from 2000 RPM onward.
Look at this and be careful.
Art
#22
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But how are you going to get the bolt back in? You still have to hold the crank against the 181 lb-ft of torque. So avoid the fireworks and just build your tool first. Here's my preferred tool: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...h-3vze-137934/ The comments in that post list a number of other very good shop-built tools. There are even some no-tool methods (I'm fascinated by the idea of stuffing nylon rope into a cylinder).
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gregory_wilcox (06-11-2020)
#23
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Yeah, yeah. Everybody loves the starter trick. It might even work, if it doesn't kill you in the process.
But how are you going to get the bolt back in? You still have to hold the crank against the 181 lb-ft of torque. So avoid the fireworks and just build your tool first. Here's my preferred tool: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...h-3vze-137934/ The comments in that post list a number of other very good shop-built tools. There are even some no-tool methods (I'm fascinated by the idea of stuffing nylon rope into a cylinder).
But how are you going to get the bolt back in? You still have to hold the crank against the 181 lb-ft of torque. So avoid the fireworks and just build your tool first. Here's my preferred tool: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...h-3vze-137934/ The comments in that post list a number of other very good shop-built tools. There are even some no-tool methods (I'm fascinated by the idea of stuffing nylon rope into a cylinder).
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2ToyGuy (06-12-2020)
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