RPM drops to around 400 when coming to a stop and stepping on the brakes
#21
Registered User
Right now it could be lots of things because of the lack of history on the maintenance of the truck.
Sicking DP like noted above or gummed up throttle body causing the throttle valve to not return to the same place.
Either way its time to get in there and do some maintenance.
I do the spark plugs twice a year on my 4Runner. There cheap and it keeps the anti seize fresh so you never have to worry about stripping out the threads in the head. I use Denso K16TR-11.
Hows the timing? Does the light jump around?
Sicking DP like noted above or gummed up throttle body causing the throttle valve to not return to the same place.
Either way its time to get in there and do some maintenance.
I do the spark plugs twice a year on my 4Runner. There cheap and it keeps the anti seize fresh so you never have to worry about stripping out the threads in the head. I use Denso K16TR-11.
Hows the timing? Does the light jump around?
#22
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: the great Maine wilderness
Posts: 2,048
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
also check all hoses to the vsv's... especially the brake vsv.. its supposed to idle the rig up when brakes are hit, to compensate for the change in vacuum at idle...
At any rate, sounds like a vacuum leak or problem with throttle body/tps/dashpot, etc.. as mentioned above
At any rate, sounds like a vacuum leak or problem with throttle body/tps/dashpot, etc.. as mentioned above
Last edited by Team420; 04-14-2012 at 03:38 PM.
#23
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: northern California
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i found out that it was the dashpot. the boot around it is ripped and the doesant hold compression and its not springy like it should be. does anybody know where i can get a dashpot??
#24
Contributing Member
iTrader: (3)
I removed the remnants of the rubber boot on mine many years ago. Also, took some silicone spray and lubed up the plunger, pushing it in and out while still wet. Might also check the air filter and check valve underneath, they can get plugged up.
But you can probably score a used one at a junkyard:
- http://www.car-part.com/
or try:
- http://davezoffroadperformance.com/
But you can probably score a used one at a junkyard:
- http://www.car-part.com/
or try:
- http://davezoffroadperformance.com/
#25
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: northern California
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ive sprayed mine a couple times to try to get it to spring a little better and nothing helps it. its ripped pretty bad so you can only see the spring and little parts of the boot that is still hanging on. im not sure what to do. ive also cleaned the filter. everything you press down on it with your finger it takes a while to pop back up and im guessing thats why my idle drops so much becuase the dashpot isnt holding it up like it should. i know i need a knew one. ive also played with the adjustment screw on the throttle and it hasnt helped at all.
#26
Contributing Member
iTrader: (3)
I ripped the remnants of my boot off like 10 yrs. ago. When it is ripped, it can jam up the works. Follow the FSM testing steps for the dashpot, or below:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri....shtml#Dashpot
You need the filter/check valve oriented the right way, I think it is supposed to slow the compression of the plunger but let it pop up fast.
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri....shtml#Dashpot
You need the filter/check valve oriented the right way, I think it is supposed to slow the compression of the plunger but let it pop up fast.
#28
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Terre Haute
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm having a similar issue. Thought i would post here to se if anyone else has experianced this before i start a new topic.
88 Pickup 22RE 5 speed
Whenever the lights are on and i put it in neutral to make a turn and hit the brakes the RPM's dive bomb form around 2K to 500 or so. It only does it when the headlights are on. With headlights are off the RPM's dont drop at all.
I have not had time to investigate yet but i'm guessing its a brake booster going out? At lunch today i tried pressing the pedal and then started it. It did soften up but not like i was expecting.
88 Pickup 22RE 5 speed
Whenever the lights are on and i put it in neutral to make a turn and hit the brakes the RPM's dive bomb form around 2K to 500 or so. It only does it when the headlights are on. With headlights are off the RPM's dont drop at all.
I have not had time to investigate yet but i'm guessing its a brake booster going out? At lunch today i tried pressing the pedal and then started it. It did soften up but not like i was expecting.
#29
I just went through this yesterday, after messing with my maf yet again. I'd press my brake, rpm's would drop, get that shudder and shake, let off the brake, it'd idle up, and smooth out. Our 2 local yardf mechanics started in on my truck, and found that the larger rubber hose that goes from the brake booster to the intake, although attached, was loose, and or not created a good seal. They loosened the clamp, shoved it on tighter, tightened the clamp back up, and my problem was fixed. So brake pedal pressed, it never dropped below a grand on the rpms. Hope this helps.
#30
Hey all, been having a similar problem, and fixed it this morning.
I just installed a 22re perfomance 2.5. It has a new throttle body as well. So, the engine is about as close to brand new as possible. When running, it idled fine after warm up, I had it set to 750 rpm. When I applied the brake however, the idle dipped to 400-500. Checked everything I could, vacuum leaks, coolant level, throttle plate closure, etc. Turns out is was my idle adjustment screw....backed out too far. Even though it idled at 750, I think that was because it was backed out past the seal. Now, even though the screw is further in, it still idles around 750. Except now it doesn't die when I hit my brakes at idle. : D
I just installed a 22re perfomance 2.5. It has a new throttle body as well. So, the engine is about as close to brand new as possible. When running, it idled fine after warm up, I had it set to 750 rpm. When I applied the brake however, the idle dipped to 400-500. Checked everything I could, vacuum leaks, coolant level, throttle plate closure, etc. Turns out is was my idle adjustment screw....backed out too far. Even though it idled at 750, I think that was because it was backed out past the seal. Now, even though the screw is further in, it still idles around 750. Except now it doesn't die when I hit my brakes at idle. : D
#31
I just went through this yesterday, after messing with my maf yet again. I'd press my brake, rpm's would drop, get that shudder and shake, let off the brake, it'd idle up, and smooth out. Our 2 local yardf mechanics started in on my truck, and found that the larger rubber hose that goes from the brake booster to the intake, although attached, was loose, and or not created a good seal. They loosened the clamp, shoved it on tighter, tightened the clamp back up, and my problem was fixed. So brake pedal pressed, it never dropped below a grand on the rpms. Hope this helps.
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...66#34331165518
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
RedRunner_87
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners (Build-Up Section)
84
06-01-2021 01:51 PM
Jnkml
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
3
07-06-2015 01:20 PM