(edit: 1994 Single Cab DLX 4WD) I'm In the process of changing out my rotors, and i've come to a standstill because I dont want to mess anything up. My references are this forum, the 93 FSM, and the Haynes Manual. I'm slightly confused as to where to go from here, and I'd like some feedback on the steps I plan to take (please reference the picture below. I used arrows because im not 100% certain my terms are correct, easier to show picture):
!. So at this point, I understand I need to separate the hub from the rotor. To do this, I need to remove the 54mm locking nut (red arrow), and the accompanying washers/nuts.
2. Now, I need to separate the hub/rotor assembly that I just pulled off. I do this by either prying at the connection (green arrow), or as suggested by another member, using a 2x4 on the inner seal behind the rotor and banging it out?
3. I also read that I could find a bolt (unsure of size and pitch) to fit into the holes (blue arrows), and somehow pull the hub off that way.
4. Lastly, the Haynes manual suggests that I bang on the lug studs/hub bolts (yellow arrow) to remove the hub flange from the rotor.
Any suggestions would be really appreciated. Thank you!
When I repacked my front bearings, the rotor basically fell off once I removed the axle nut(s). There's not much holding it on; the axle nut is tightened so that the remaining friction is only 6-12 lbs force.
When I repacked my front bearings, the rotor basically fell off once I removed the axle nut(s). There's not much holding it on; the axle nut is tightened so that the remaining friction is only 6-12 lbs force.
You refer to the hub coming off the spindle.
Removing the brake rotor from the hub, is another ball of wax entirely.
The holes the OP points to in blue contain bolts that must be removed from the back of the hub before the rotor might be beat off of the hub.
Sometimes the rotor and hub are corroded very strongly.
The outside bearing behind the nuts will want to fall right out after you remove the nuts and slide the hub off the spindle.
The oil seal will retain the inner bearing in the hub. it'll be a pain to keep everything clean.
Might be prudent to clean the bearings and hub, and repack. Replacing the seal if it's damaged, or hardened.
Ok, that makes sense. I have a tub of red high-temp grease, am I able to remove/repack/reassemble both bearings without a press? I've read a few places that guys needed to take theirs to a shop to get pressed in. I would like to do as much as possible with the tools that I have. I do have a seal puller, at least.
Ok, that makes sense. I have a tub of red high-temp grease, am I able to remove/repack/reassemble both bearings without a press? I've read a few places that guys needed to take theirs to a shop to get pressed in. I would like to do as much as possible with the tools that I have. I do have a seal puller, at least.
You should not need a press. The roller cages and inner races are units and will come right out.
The outer races are pressed or driven into recesses in the hub, but they do not have to be removed unless they must be replaced, then, a brass drift and hammer are all that's needed.
You should not need a press. The roller cages and inner races are units and will come right out.
The outer races are pressed or driven into recesses in the hub, but they do not have to be removed unless they must be replaced, then, a brass drift and hammer are all that's needed.
Good to know! I'll do some more reading on repacking to make sure I do it correctly. One more question: Is the inner bearing seal ("oil" seal), the only part you would recommend replacing? (assuming the bearings are good and dont have any marring)
Good to know! I'll do some more reading on repacking to make sure I do it correctly. One more question: Is the inner bearing seal ("oil" seal), the only part you would recommend replacing? (assuming the bearings are good and dont have any marring)
Only the oil seal, although there are gaskets and an o-ring in the lock-out hubs that might need service.
