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Rhythmic hum a la "Living on a Prayer"

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Rhythmic hum a la "Living on a Prayer"

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Old 05-25-2018, 06:33 PM
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Rhythmic hum a la "Living on a Prayer" - Possible Rear Wheel Bearing

After 100 miles round-trip on washboarded Hole in the Rock Road Road in UT, I started hearing a rhythmic hum a la background vocals on "Living on a Prayer" - LOL!

Goes "woo-woo-wah-woo-woo--wah"...
Sounds more rubbery (like running on flat tire) than metallic. Mechanic brother-in-law (test drove it) says it does not sound or feel like the drive-train so I had tires balanced and rotated but I still hear the hum.
It's faint over road, wind noise, and the purr of the 22RE (spoken in the tone of the Dos Equis Man).
Happens in low and high speeds (speed dependent).
Happens in gear or in neutral.

Truck also (intermittently) started to buck/hesitate when I'm try to accelerate when gear is too low for the speed. Could be related (clutch slipping) or separate issue from bad fuel from the backroads of Utah? I already used STP fuel injector cleaner and refilled with two tanks full of name-brand gas.

Please comment if my plan to isolate source or hum is sound (no pun intended - LOL):
  • Chock 2 front wheels and one rear wheel, jack up remaining rear wheel off the ground.
  • Tie cord to throttle cable so I can pull and rev up remotely (keep cord away from moving part, or course)
  • Observe drive shaft as it runs.
  • Probe suspect areas (transfer case, brake backing plate, what else?) with long wooden rod held against ear so I would not be under the truck
  • Do the other rear wheel.
  • Jack up and spin wheels manually to feel for bad bearings. Rear wheels may be hard to check that way?
  • Inspect brakes
[b]Brainstorm - Any other ideas?

keywords: Rhythmichum, rearwheelbearing

Last edited by RAD4Runner; 06-03-2018 at 10:03 AM.
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Old 05-25-2018, 06:38 PM
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rear wheel bearings, but not related to your hesitation.
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Old 05-25-2018, 07:39 PM
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It sounds like your truck is down on its luck
It’s tough, sooo tough
Well, you need our help so we’ll give it a shot
Since you’ve described it for us,
We’re half way there
we’re beyond just, livin' on a prayer
Take these guy’s advise, you'll make it I swear

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Old 05-25-2018, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by RAD4Runner View Post
Happens in low and high speeds (speed dependent).
Happens in gear or in neutral.
In either of those conditions does the sound change in either volume or rhythm?
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Old 05-25-2018, 09:00 PM
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jack up the whole rear and let the truck idle, should show you which side but do both anyway
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Old 05-25-2018, 10:32 PM
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Thanks, guys!

Originally Posted by wallytoo View Post
rear wheel bearings, but not related to your hesitation.
Yeah hoping it's just that or other parts that are less expensive to replace.

Originally Posted by L5wolvesf View Post
It sounds like your truck is down on its luck
...
LOL! Yup!

Originally Posted by L5wolvesf View Post
In either of those conditions does the sound change in either volume or rhythm?
Yes, frequency increases with speed.

Originally Posted by spriggan View Post
jack up the whole rear and let the truck idle, should show you which side but do both anyway
Sure, will try that.
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Old 05-26-2018, 01:06 AM
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Red face

Not enough Coffee yet !

I am sure any fluid loss would have been mentioned !

I dated a women long ago that drove a Car that the differential screamed you could hear her coming a mile away never leaked .

Does this have a Center bearing I always called them Carrier bearings That would be my first suspect .

Every rear wheel bearing I had that started to fail started leaking not that it might not leak

Then to me I can feel them by spinning the wheel

Bearing tend to make a grinding rough noise and get hot and start leaking .
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Old 05-26-2018, 02:33 PM
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All good suggestions. I'd add u-joints to the list of potential suspects, which you can isolate by driving in 4wd with the rear d-shaft disconnected.
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Old 05-26-2018, 07:06 PM
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Rear Wheel Bearing It IS!

Thanks, guys! I'm pretty confident, and am glad it is just the rear-wheel bearing and not the drive-train.


JACKED UP REAR

McGyverism, Dude! LOL!




I probed transmission, transfer case, and differential with wooden rod and did not hear it.
Then I listened to and felt the rear-bearings. Right-rear bearing sounded louder and feels gritty. I think that's it. Next is to see my Factory Service Manual and search Youtube for R&R procedure.
Inputs / recommendations / tips on Remove and Replace procedure would be appreciated.
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Old 05-26-2018, 08:32 PM
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removal is easy, relatively. there are a few good youtubes out there. a shop press is handy for removing the retainer and bearing. easier than pounding the axle spline end on the floor, with the brake hardware still attached, to get the retainer off. i replaced the "pocket", and pulled the axle out, leaving the brake parts still attached to the backing plate (they come out with the axle). i disconnected the brakeline at the wheel cylinder, and used a rubber cup to seal the brakeline at the fitting.

i purchased a modified seal, perhaps from low-range offroad, but the seal was made by marlin crawler, iirc. works better than the original seal.

installation is a bit harder, a shop press makes it smoother, and doesn't ruin the bearing.
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Old 05-26-2018, 09:39 PM
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Thanks, Wallytoo!
Yes, Alexman says "OEM Koyo bearings from Marlin Crawler". (https://www.marlincrawler.com/search/node/MCAX-241)

And Alexman to the rescue once more!

Yeah, the shop press would surely help. As Alexman suggests, I'll take the axles out and find a shop to press the axle out and bearings back in.

Last edited by RAD4Runner; 05-27-2018 at 08:51 AM.
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Old 05-27-2018, 03:01 AM
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Red face

Glad your doing both !!

In Sunny California things should come apart easy compared to here .

A slide hammer works great to pop the axles out .

Good luck
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Old 05-27-2018, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by RAD4Runner View Post




I probed transmission, transfer case, and differential with wooden rod and did not hear it.
Then I listened to and felt the rear-bearings. Right-rear bearing sounded louder and feels gritty. I think that's it.
So it's true . . . you can hear things if you put a wooden stick to your rear end. But did you hear the ocean or Bon Jovi?
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Old 05-27-2018, 08:43 AM
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Parts needed

Thanks, guys!
This is al I'm gonna need, correct?
https://www.marlincrawler.com/axle/r...ce-kit-1979-99



Originally Posted by wyoming9 View Post
...A slide hammer works great to pop the axles out .
Yes, researching most feasible way of doing it.

Originally Posted by L5wolvesf View Post
So it's true . . . you can hear things if you put a wooden stick to your rear end. But did you hear the ocean or Bon Jovi?
I got the idea from another member here... Maybe C0_94_PU?
I wish I could hear this ocean...

Last edited by RAD4Runner; 05-27-2018 at 08:53 AM.
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Old 05-31-2018, 02:04 PM
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How Critical Is Re-installing Bearing?


At 15:51 mark on video, Alexman merely taps the bearing in.
A machine shop I checked with says it has to be pressed in a certain distance / pressure. How critical it that really?
Machine shop quotes NOT TO EXCEED $75 per side to press out and re-install. Sounds fair? Considering that dealer would charge $1400 parts and labor, that sounds good to me.

Last edited by RAD4Runner; 05-31-2018 at 02:06 PM.
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Old 06-01-2018, 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by RAD4Runner View Post
At 15:51 mark on video, Alexman merely taps the bearing in.
A machine shop I checked with says it has to be pressed in a certain distance / pressure. How critical it that really?
Machine shop quotes NOT TO EXCEED $75 per side to press out and re-install. Sounds fair? Considering that dealer would charge $1400 parts and labor, that sounds good to me.
What does the FSM say about the bearing install?
and
That beach life AM wake up must reeely suck.
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Old 06-03-2018, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by RAD4Runner View Post
@ 14:51 mark on video

At 15:51 mark on video, Alexman merely taps the bearing in.
A machine shop I checked with says it has to be pressed in a certain distance / pressure. How critical it that really?
Machine shop quotes NOT TO EXCEED $75 per side to press out and re-install. Sounds fair? Considering that dealer would charge $1400 parts and labor, that sounds good to me.
As long as the bearing and collar are on the axle so that the snap ring may be installed, that's all there is. No other force need be applied.
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Old 06-03-2018, 09:56 PM
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FSM: Rear Axle, Replace Rear Wheel Bearing, etc

Originally Posted by millball View Post
As long as the bearing and collar are on the axle so that the snap ring may be installed, that's all there is. No other force need be applied.
Thanks, Millball. Yeah, that's what I gather from Alexman's video. The FSM (below) does not mention any specs, either; just tap it in with the SST...













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Old 06-04-2018, 04:42 AM
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Hey guys, AlexMan here. Just a bit of added info about the rear wheel bearing, and bearings in general. YouTube is a pretty big stage and people get all hot-headed behind a keyboard. I'm pretty used to being told I'm wrong and a moron. Sometimes they are right, but let me clear up a common misconception. Many people have heard it's bad to hammer on bearings and you will immediately destroy them. It's 100% okay to hammer a bearing in or out as long as you are hitting the race that is stuck. If you are installing a bearing into a hole and you hammer on the inner race, then all the force is transmitted through the balls. This IS bad. Same goes the other way, if you are installing a bearing onto a shaft, then you want to hit the inner race. If you hammered on the outer race then you would be transmitting force through the balls. So as you can see in my video when installing the wheel bearings onto the axle, I use the angle iron to tap the bearing on. The rear wheel bearings are a slip fit into the bearing pockets but a press fit onto the axle shaft. Now, when using a press, you can press on either race to an extent. You won't be applying any shock loads with a press. The shock loads are what are bad for the bearing balls. But with a press you do have the ability to quickly overload a bearing to the point of damaging it. So with a good mechanic's feel, you can press either race as long as you have a good feel for when to stop to prevent overloading the bearing. Still a good idea to press on the race that is stuck but in certain situations you may not have that option.
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Old 06-04-2018, 04:47 AM
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Some more info. My press was $99 from Harbor Freight. I've gotten a lot more use out of it than I expected. Well worth it if a shop is quoting you $75 per side. Also, no specific depths for the bearings. Press them til they stop or when the sound of hitting them with the hammer changes.
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