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Restore ride to stock-like conditions?

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Old Feb 15, 2019 | 08:37 AM
  #41  
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Now I'm having doubts... I thought the 5inch OD black magic springs fit around the bump stops without need for cutting... but it looks like the 5 inches will only fit with the cutting? What springs fit with no cut? The rubicon stock springs?
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Old Feb 15, 2019 | 09:11 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by frikinyankee
Now I'm having doubts... I thought the 5inch OD black magic springs fit around the bump stops without need for cutting... but it looks like the 5 inches will only fit with the cutting? What springs fit with no cut? The rubicon stock springs?
Actually found THIS post, seems like the 5" OD fits around the bump stops unless I'm missing something. Also I got 11 inches... there seems to be conflicting information about which stocks fit stock height? sounds like 12 inches is a little lifted and 11 inches might be closer to stock
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Old Feb 15, 2019 | 09:18 AM
  #43  
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Aaaand here's a couple pictures!

She's a little beat up but seems like always kept stock. And i haven't really seen this paint / decal combo



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Old Feb 15, 2019 | 09:29 AM
  #44  
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Sweet we had the same rims on her old 87
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Old Feb 15, 2019 | 09:32 AM
  #45  
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Not resting on frame

Resting on frame
Yeah, unique stripes for 86.
Not knowing the spring's lbs/inch rating, it's hard to tell. We used springs with known ratings.
"Black Magic coil springs, 5" x 12" 125 lbs/inch got mine to what looks stock. Same rating that SomedayJ used.
I think the reason it made SomedayJ's a little taller is because the upper part did not bottom or top out at the frame.
I used same length, same rating, but upper part sits right on the frame, secured with 6-mm screws to cut-off bump-stop.

Last edited by RAD4Runner; Feb 15, 2019 at 09:49 AM.
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Old Feb 15, 2019 | 09:58 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by frikinyankee
Actually found THIS post, seems like the 5" OD fits around the bump stops unless I'm missing something. Also I got 11 inches... there seems to be conflicting information about which stocks fit stock height? sounds like 12 inches is a little lifted and 11 inches might be closer to stock
That's my wife's 4R with the Black Magic coil springs 5" x 12" 125 lbs in the rear. It was a temporal fix but she likes the way it rides now, so the springs stay.
The red lines show de distance from the floor to the bottom of the 4r, the difference is a little bit less than 1 inch, higher in the rear. You can get the 11 inches springs and they'll be equal to the front. You can get the 12 ones, and if they're too high you can cut a coil or tighten the tbars a couple of turns. Your choice.
My wife approves the zuk mod, she sends her "thumbs up"


Last edited by SomedayJ; Feb 15, 2019 at 09:59 AM.
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Old Feb 15, 2019 | 11:03 AM
  #47  
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From: Enoch Utah

STANDING ON A CORNER IN WINSLOW, ARIZONA (ROUTE 66)
That is awesome Ray
Took me right back in time.. such a fine site too see
Were you standing on the corner?
This tread is awesome, a lot of different opinions, I'm glad there was a cease fire. Everyone is entitled to there opinion, this thread showed that.

Last edited by NYHumpinUtah; Feb 15, 2019 at 11:05 AM.
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Old Feb 15, 2019 | 11:46 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by SomedayJ
... You can get the 11 inches springs and they'll be equal to the front. You can get the 12 ones, and if they're too high you can cut a coil ...

SomedayJ, has this settled? That adds about an inch to height compared to when spring is resting on frame.

Originally Posted by NYHumpinUtah
STANDING ON A CORNER IN WINSLOW, ARIZONA (ROUTE 66)
Were you standing on the corner?
Yes, with Jackson Browne (left) and the late Glenn Frey (right), and the flat-bed Ford.

... Everyone is entitled to their opinion, this thread showed that.
Yup. Bottomline is we want to help O.P. accomplish objective:
Restore to near-stock ride quality within BUDGET.
IF someone can help with source of OEM leaf springs, that might work.
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Old Feb 15, 2019 | 12:15 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by frikinyankee
Aaaand here's a couple pictures!

She's a little beat up but seems like always kept stock. And i haven't really seen this paint / decal combo


Man, That rig looks straight and rust-free! How are the other panels?
Buff out the paint, lose the grody center caps and go!
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Old Feb 15, 2019 | 12:17 PM
  #50  
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cut and spread the bump stop... the spring goes inside it NOT over it... nothing to attach, bolt, weld,...
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Old Feb 15, 2019 | 12:38 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by 87-4runner
cut and spread the bump stop... the spring goes inside it NOT over it... nothing to attach, bolt, weld,...
O.P. is leaning toward No-CUT, no-weld, using 5-inch OD springs to wrap around bump-stop that will not get cut, similar to SomedayJ's. Challenge is spreading the spring so it settles against the frame. Hoping SomedayJ can check if his did after some time.
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Old Feb 15, 2019 | 01:28 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by NYHumpinUtah
This tread is awesome, a lot of different opinions, I'm glad there was a cease fire. Everyone is entitled to there opinion, this thread showed that.
Originally Posted by SomedayJ
Zuk mod yes or not? You will find the same passionate confrontation/debate between the green vs red coolant guys, fiberglass vs weld metal in body work, vegans and meat lovers, republicans and democrats.
^ ^ ^
I warned you, guys!

Originally Posted by keycw
I run OME rear spring with their shackles and bushings, and OME front torsions with brand new everything on the front IFS, and it rides pretty damn good for a 1987 Toyota, that suspension is a lift and will run you quite a bit more than 400 bucks. add a leaf packs will only make your ride harsher. the zuk mod was never meant to make a softer ride, just increase the weight carrying load of the runner. as for ol' saggy arse, it is a very real thing. when I bought my 87 it was literally riding on the rear bump stops. as a frame of reference for you, heres my truck. the front includes a 4crawler 1.5' bjs with slightly cranked torsions and the rear is the OME springs with their anti inversion shackels which comes out to roughly 2.5"of lift.
That's what I wanted to do in one of our 4R, but some forum members disapprove the neccesary trimming/cutting to install the bjs, you can see some opinions about that in the Charles4x4's rebuild thread. I decided to do not install the bjs after that.

Originally Posted by 87-4runner
cut and spread the bump stop... the spring goes inside it NOT over it... nothing to attach, bolt, weld,...
So we went for the zuk mod, but I didn't want to do any permanent modification, so no cut no weld for our 4R, we can always go back to the original way, if we sell it in a very far future, the next owner'll appreciate that.

Originally Posted by RAD4Runner
SomedayJ, has this settled? That adds about an inch to height compared to when spring is resting on frame.
I Ray!
I took that photo a few minutes after the zuk install. The 4Runner had the summer top that day, so the rear was lighter. It has the hard top now.
I went to check the springs few minutes ago, they're closer to the frame than in that photo, but they don't touch it, I'm going to post another photo tomorrow morning to see how it looks now.
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Old Feb 15, 2019 | 02:16 PM
  #53  
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From: Oklahoma
Ahhh got ya... mine is never leaving here so the mods i make I'm the only one that has to like them... but i get what your doing and used to be pretty OEM with our corvettes...

Last edited by 87-4runner; Feb 15, 2019 at 02:19 PM.
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Old Feb 15, 2019 | 04:31 PM
  #54  
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Actual Results of my Zuk Mod.

O.P.,
Here... actual figures... from My Zuk Mod in 2012... Using 12-INCH, 125-Pound/Inch Black Magic Springs. To help you decide. (Also posted on my thread for my easy reference.)

Before the Mod, Top of Leaf Pack from Frame was 7.25 inches:
Bump stops were about a inch from each other.


RIGHT After the Mod:
Wheel rim to wheel well rim in front: 14"
Wheel rim to wheel well rim in rear: 12.5"

Before the mod, top of leaf pack was 7.75 Inches from frame.
After the mod (As of 22Mar2013), top of leaf pack was 9.25 inches

AS OF 15 FEBRUARY 2019:
NOTE: Since 2012, I have removed 25 pounds of the heavy particle board bottom of the rear deck, and 30 pounds of the rear seat bottoms.

Wheel rim to wheel well rim in front: 14 inches right side (13.5" on left side - parked road side so not sure if road level has effect)
Wheel rim to wheel well rim in rear: 12 inches on both sides.




Top of leaf pack from frame: approx 10 inches.



Originally Posted by 87-4runner
Sweet we had the same rims on her old 87
And on mine before I replaced with OEM SR5's.

Last edited by RAD4Runner; Feb 15, 2019 at 04:38 PM.
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Old Feb 16, 2019 | 11:30 AM
  #55  
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The springs almost touch the frame, 0.8 cm (around 0.31") gap.
The difference between the front and the rear of the truck's about 2cm (0.78")
This is the way they look now:


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Old Feb 16, 2019 | 01:10 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by SomedayJ
The springs almost touch the frame, 0.8 cm (around 0.31") gap.
The difference between the front and the rear of the truck's about 2cm (0.78")
This is the way they look now:


AAH! They finally settled. Looks good. 2 CM between front and back is pretty close to the 1.5 inch difference many say about stock. MY truck's rear settles when loaded for a trip, and aesthetically I'd like the rear a little higher, so that 2cm actually looks good.
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Old Feb 18, 2019 | 12:30 PM
  #57  
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Wow so cool to see all these details on all your mods, really a lot of useful info.

I got the 11inch 125lbs in the mail and I'll let you guys know my stats after I install them hopefully this coming weekend.

Originally Posted by Melrose 4r
Man, That rig looks straight and rust-free! How are the other panels?
Buff out the paint, lose the grody center caps and go!
Is this what you meant with buff the paint?




Went out to an ATV park over the weekend and found out this little truck is soooo capable!! There was a jeep with a busted axle abandoned on the side of the trail... from what I understand that's an overpowered small truck problem, yotas not to worry!


And yes I will want to buff it up!

For now need to get tires while i wait on the suspension in the mail. Anybody swear by pep boys? New to this whole new tires business.. they seem to have a lifetime alignment deal right now too. Specifically looking at the mickey thompson 31/10.5's. Either the deegan 38 or atz p3s. any thoughts? Also what about pep boys road hazard warranty?

Last edited by frikinyankee; Feb 18, 2019 at 12:46 PM.
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Old Feb 18, 2019 | 12:40 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by frikinyankee
... ...31/10.5's...
31's biggest that wud fit without rubbing on stock lift.
I saved $100 on Cooper AT3's from Discount tire Co "Direct" thru Ebay. U can have them shipped (free) to shop or home. I had Disc Tire Co. install with hazard insurance for same price when buying tires from store.
For alignment, I got lifetime deal with Firestone for about same price as 2 one-time alignments. Worth it for truck we like to work on and use a lot.
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Old Mar 26, 2019 | 08:20 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by beef tits


You are completely wrong. This is a myth spread by dummies. Follow your body lines, the rear fenders wheel wells are lower in the rear which gives it a "sagging" appearance. Nothing wrong with the springs at all if it still looks like these stock photos from the '80s;






If you want to lift the ass end of your truck and make it look like a Matchbox car then cover it in diamond plate like some redneck wet dream, by all means, go for it. Just don't spread misinformation. OP wants to keep it stock.

OP, it sounds to me like you just need to replace your rear shocks.
Education is needed

Yes, the rear fenders are lower than the front. No, we aren't talking about a "rake".
All 4 of my 4Runners sat about 1 to 2" lower in the back. The rear window should be parallel to the ground, but it does in fact sit lower in the rear. This is what we are talking about and it's a real issue.

While driving you will notice the sag because you have a different steering angle. Return to center gets worse, it wanders a bit more, the angle of the driveline becomes a problem and driving over bumps makes the rear feel weird as it will "buck" the truck. Fix the springs and it all goes away.
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Old Jan 21, 2020 | 10:52 PM
  #60  
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Good question you originally had. I have a 1987 4runner that was completely stock. It had an unevenly worn front tire and before I put on new tires I wanted to rebuild the front end. New: upper and lower balljoints, inner/outer tie rod ends, shocks, CV axles, idler arm, and upper and lower POLYURETHANE bushings. For the rear I went with OME leaf springs.
After installing all of those new parts, the 4runner rode way worse than when it was stock. I would never recommend poly bushings for a daily driver on stock suspension, you feel every bump in the road. Also the OME rear leafs are way too stiff from the factory and the bottom overload should be removed, unless you plan to haul 1000lbs of gear like Australians do lol.

In hindsight I should have done BJs, tie rod ends, and shocks up front.

The ZUK mod is a band aid, not a proper suspension setup. I had the ZUK mod and it felt fine but I did not want it to be a permanent fix.

My recommendation. Check for play in front suspension and replace worn items. Then for the rear buy OME leafs and remove the bottom overload. Then shocks at all 4 corners. You should be money.

Last edited by 84 yota dude; Jan 21, 2020 at 10:53 PM.
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