BIGTOY88

iTrader: (1)

I have a 92 toyota pickup still IFS up front with 7.5 inches of suspension lift. I broke my cv axles a couple months ago and want to replace them with 93 T-100 cv axles.

The reason I want to do this is because the T-100 cv axles are a little bit longer than pickup cv's but have all of the same specs and spline count as the pickup (except for length of course) So in my thinking, these should work for my pickup just the same as if I were to have custom extended pickup cv's made. Giving the cv's a better angle and not letting them bind up as much while flexxing to break.

Is my reasoning behind this correct or has anybody tried this before?

Any input or help is much appreciated.

abecedarian

How do you have 7.5" lift on IFS?
Done right, it should be 4" bracket lift (ProComp or similar) and long travel (Total Chaos or Blazeland). BJ spacers and t-bar crank is setting you up for issues using that for lift.

The T100 CV's are longer because the (sub-)frame and driveline is wider on the T100 than on the pickups but the T100 uses the same control arms as the pickup, not because they give more travel.

Unless your pickup's control arms are longer than stock arms, to compensate for the additional shaft length, you'll have issues with the T100 CV's not being able to fully compress, which can break joints, and will also have the same issues with the CV angles that are breaking things now.

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

What he said

You can't use T100 shafts without getting wider control arms, or a kit to extend them out (Total Chaos or similar). They are 3" longer on each side.

Linky: http://www.chaosfab.com/95200.php

BIGTOY88

iTrader: (1)

I meant to type 7" in front and 7.5 " of lift for rear. For the front it has a 4" suspension lift with 2.5" BJ spacers with the torsion bars cranked it has a total of 7". I know BJ spacers are not the easiest on your front end but at the time the price was right.

Instead of doing T-100 CV's would you recommend just going back to stock pickup CV's and have them extended a little bit or would this not work either?

Thanks for the comments on this already.

abecedarian

You "may" be able to install a diff-drop to take some of the strain off your CV's, much like people who do BJ spacers alone install and worry about droop do - they can be "added" to a bracket kit.

Beyond that, not sure what else to say.

Which joints keep breaking... outer or inner?
If the inner, you may check Total Chaos' website for info about Porsche 930 CV's.
If the outer, you might need to limit how far left and right the wheels move, somehow.

BIGTOY88

iTrader: (1)

The diff-drop is a good idea. I need to double check to make sure I don't already have one on there but I think that will help the cv angles. I looked into the total chaos kits and they deffinately would solve my problem but I don't want my front front end to be 6.5" wider than the back. I am already running 1.5" wheel spacers.

I wouldn't say they "keep breaking" because it has only happened once. After I finished the lift I took it out wheeling and went up some big steep rutted trails hammering on the gas and making sharp turns while flexed and it did fine. No issues with the cv's breaking on these first trails which I thought they would have broke if they were going to.

Then, I took it up a really steep mountain fire line road that it didn't make it but just before high mark the front end bounced a couple times on me and broke the outer on the driver side and ripped the boot on the passenger side. I think the bouncing is what caused it along with the unstoppable backwards ride I took down the mountain afterwards. (glad I was able to keep the front end straight going down or it woulda rolled :S)

Being that those cv's had over 200,000 miles on them I don't think helped the situation any. I am going to put a arb air locker up front, a lock-right in the rear, and 4:88 gears in it the same time I replace the cv's. Being that I will be locked front and rear with better gearing I dont think I will have to push the truck as hard to get where I want thus relieving the cv's some and not putting as much stress on them to break.

I think I am going to do the front diff drop with brand new pickup cv's and see if they will hold up with the ease of wheeling with the lockers and gears.

What are your thoughts?

abecedarian

You have a suspension / bracket lift so you DO have some sort of differential drop. My ProComp lift came with brackets and such to drop the differential down to match the suspension. I "could" install the more colloquial "diff drop" if I needed to, though, for instance if I had BJ spacers in addition to my lift kit. I would worry though about the length of the propeller shaft- it can accomodate some variation in length but can it take another inch for instance...? Then, the real diff drop kits will also have a new front crossmember which will reduce ground clearance a tad. Is that acceptable?

Some people frown on it but maybe get whole shafts from Autozone or O'Reilly's with the lifetime warranty. At least if you break one, you can get a replacement for free. They won't let you keep doing that though: conversations with a person at the local Autozone told me that they'll replace them without question regardless of how long it's been since you bot them, but if they break again within a year of purchase or last replacement, they will invalidate the warranty and make you pay for replacement... and then the warranty starts over again.

FWIW, I've been (for a few years actually) simmering the idea of a TC or Blazeland long travel setup so I can end up around 7-8" suspension lift total. Like you, I worry about the front being wider than the back, but the solution is relatively simple: a T100 axle in the rear, and fender flares. The biggest issue I have is figuring out exactly how to lift the rear to match the front- I do NOT like the pre-runner, higher-up-in-front look. So, I'm contemplating blocks with integral torque rods up to the transmission crossmember, much like the ProComp lift I have has bars from the front suspension up the the same crossmember.

But, I've digressed.

Leviticus6432

I would fab up a new front xmember and lower the diff a little more. Idk how far would be safe before you start having driveshaft issues tho... But thats why i'd mess with dropping the front of the diff more than the back, so your pinion angle is a little better. You also might look at where your bumpstops are if you do drop the diff more. You will wanna move your upper bump stop down a little i'd say. Just go with stock cv axles for now. As previously mentioned, longer axles will do nothing for you in this situation.

rattlewagon

7" of suspension lift is ALOT to ask out of the ifs. Any chance you have a picture of this hog?

Id pull the bj spacers out or at least un- crank the bars.

What size tire are you running?

Spinning tires in the air then making contact with the solid ground is a sure way to break CVS

BIGTOY88

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for ALL the info guys. You all seem like a good bunch of guys eager to lend advise. After thinking it through all day and coming to terms that it will never really wheel how I want it to without breaking something I finally said the hell with the IFS and I have started putting a parts list together to do a SAS on it next month.

I will be trying to sell anything I can off of my IFS setup and will be posting them on the classifieds section on here soon. Such as, nib arb air locker, bj spacers, almost new shocks, and the 4 inch lift. So if you know anybody interested in any of these shoot me over a pm and hopefully I can offset some of my SAS cost.

Rattle, I will take a couple pics of it as it is now to give you a peak when I get back home. It has 35" swampers on it right now.

Thanks again for all the advise guys. Im sure you will be seeing me on here soon looking for pointers on the SAS.

abecedarian

Seems there comes a point where IFS just doesn't keep up with solid axles.

Your loss will be someone else's gain.