Replacing green coolant with Toyota red.
Oct 17, 2013 | 02:49 PM
#41
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Joined: Sep 2012
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From: Roseville, CA
To add to what others have said about Toyota's 100k mile change interval:
It only applies to the pink (sllc- super long life coolant)
And after the first 100k they recommend every 30k. It's just a ploy to keep the calculated cost of ownership low and to a lesser extend, have less impact on the environment. Its all about cost of ownership these days. Lower cost of ownership = more car sales.
Think 100k mile iridium plugs, lifetime auto trans fluid, timing chain, and now 10,000 mile oil change intervals.
The red (llc- long life coolant) I believe was recommended every 30k. But don't quote me on that one. I've always changed my green coolant every 2-3 years.
It only applies to the pink (sllc- super long life coolant)
And after the first 100k they recommend every 30k. It's just a ploy to keep the calculated cost of ownership low and to a lesser extend, have less impact on the environment. Its all about cost of ownership these days. Lower cost of ownership = more car sales.
Think 100k mile iridium plugs, lifetime auto trans fluid, timing chain, and now 10,000 mile oil change intervals.
The red (llc- long life coolant) I believe was recommended every 30k. But don't quote me on that one. I've always changed my green coolant every 2-3 years.
The Toyota Red is just like the green, same service intervals.
Oct 17, 2013 | 04:34 PM
#45
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Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Columbia River Gorge, Oregon...east side
Evans Waterless Coolant is one.....I know nothing about using it.
A topic for a new thread......possibly.
A topic for a new thread......possibly.
Last edited by rworegon; Oct 17, 2013 at 04:36 PM.
Oct 18, 2013 | 10:43 AM
#46
Evans Waterless Coolant is one.....I know nothing about using it.
A topic for a new thread......possibly.
A topic for a new thread......possibly.
Oct 18, 2013 | 08:11 PM
#48
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Joined: Aug 2013
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From: Southern Arizona
Any fluid/vapor pressure that the cooling system can exert on a headgasket is trivial. Those pressures cannot contribute in any meaningful way to headgasket failure.
Max cooling system pressures are well under 20psi.
Combustion pressures are hundreds of psi, alternating with vacuum
hundreds of times, if not thousands of times per minute.
That, coupled with radical temperature gradients, and the dissimilar coefficients of expansion of iron and light alloy, do the job on headgaskets.
Max cooling system pressures are well under 20psi.
Combustion pressures are hundreds of psi, alternating with vacuum
hundreds of times, if not thousands of times per minute.
That, coupled with radical temperature gradients, and the dissimilar coefficients of expansion of iron and light alloy, do the job on headgaskets.
Last edited by millball; Oct 18, 2013 at 08:19 PM.
Oct 19, 2013 | 08:50 AM
#49
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From: Roseville, CA
Umm... the radiator cap realeases pressure. That's what it's for. Waterless coolant is bad news.
Why would you want HIGHER internal temperatures? Higher temps reduces engine efficiency. Our fans are mechanical so the whole "save HP by not running fan" is a bunch of baloney.
Why would you want HIGHER internal temperatures? Higher temps reduces engine efficiency. Our fans are mechanical so the whole "save HP by not running fan" is a bunch of baloney.
Oct 19, 2013 | 12:27 PM
#50
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From: PA USA
I saw that "not running fan" comment on the website and chuckled.
Oct 20, 2013 | 01:04 PM
#51
So just an update guys. Did my flush and my repair this weekend. Everything went great and I ended up going with Prestone Long Life Coolant. Thanks for all the recommendations and advice!
Oct 20, 2013 | 05:59 PM
#52
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From: PA USA
Oct 20, 2013 | 06:55 PM
#53
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Oct 20, 2013 | 07:58 PM
#55
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From: Corona, CA
There is an excellent thread that details exactly what is going on with the various types of coolants. Well worth the read: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...nt-faq-192781/
Oct 20, 2013 | 08:31 PM
#56
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From: Rocky Mtn. House AB, Canada
Your joking right? The ratio effects the freezing point as well as the boiling point. Running straight water will boil at 210f- 100c. If that happens you'll probally start blowing hoses from a huge pressure increase. The coolant also acts as a lubricant for the water pump. If you run straight water your water pump bearings won't like it. Ever think about corrosion? Corrosion inhibitors are in your coolant as well. Have fun cleaning your rusty block.
Oct 21, 2013 | 04:37 AM
#57
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From: Red Bay, NW Forida
Hate to argue, but that won't happen. The cooling system in the truck is pressurized, so water will not boil at 212F like it normally would.
A lot of drag cars run straight water in their cooling system without a problem.
A lot of drag cars run straight water in their cooling system without a problem.
Oct 21, 2013 | 08:14 PM
#59
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From: Rocky Mtn. House AB, Canada
opps, I forgot about that. Thanks for the correction.
Oct 21, 2013 | 11:04 PM
#60
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Joined: Jun 2011
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good thread.
since i'm sold on di/distilled water only in radiator systems, and I run the cheap peak antifreeze, I went to their website to see how much of a difference tap water makes:
"Can I mix ordinary tap water with antifreeze?
Yes, tap water is commonly used for mixing with antifreeze, however, deionized water or distilled water is preferred. Do not use water softened with salts to mix with antifreeze"
http://www.peakhd.com/product-lines/peak/faq/
since i'm sold on di/distilled water only in radiator systems, and I run the cheap peak antifreeze, I went to their website to see how much of a difference tap water makes:
"Can I mix ordinary tap water with antifreeze?
Yes, tap water is commonly used for mixing with antifreeze, however, deionized water or distilled water is preferred. Do not use water softened with salts to mix with antifreeze"
http://www.peakhd.com/product-lines/peak/faq/
