nevermore1701

I'm fairly mechanically inclined, I just don't have access to a whole lot of tools, just bare basics. Is this something I could probably do myself, or would I be better off getting fleeced by a mechanic?

tc

Absolutely DIY. You just need some regular wrenches/sockets and a set of snap ring pliers.

Search there are several writeups on how.

cethdawson

I replaced my the cv on my 4runner with just basic tools. It was perty easy. It saves money and didnt take that long to do.

T4L

I did this not too long ago. Basic tools and a few choice colorful words will get'r'done. The 1st one is a PITA. The 2nd one will be significantly easier.

nevermore1701

Good to know. I did a couple of searches, didn't turn up the guides.... Anyone point me in the general direction?

tc

Let's say you're doing driver's side. All bolt sizes are the wrench size

(Optional) put a jackstand under the passenger side rear frame to get better leverage
Put jack under a-arm, preferably under the balljoint
Jack up driver's side
Insert jackstand under frame for safety
Remove wheel
Remove manual hub or ADD plate
- If you have manual hubs, put them in "FREE" before unbolting anything
- To remove the cone washers, tap firmly on the end of the stud with a brass drift
Remove the 12mm bolt and big washer
Remove the circlip (snapring)
Get under truck, remove the 6 19mm (maybe they are 17mm) nuts
- Note, the bolt is a stud - only the nut side will turn!
- The "quick change" CV mod replaces these studs with regular bolts. Size should be M12-1.25x30mm.
Work the CV out
- Pry the diff end out over the studs, work that end down, should come out without tooooo much problem

While the CV is out, be sure to liberally grease the brass spindle bushing where the CV comes through the spindle.

Installation is reverse of removal.

gary96360

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874runnersr5

its pretty easy, time wise it takes a good afternoon if you got everything ready

T4L

I unbolted the lower ball joint(4 bolts). This let me move the spindle around more to get the flange passed the studs. I wouldn't consider this a complicated repair, but the 1st time can be a bit frustrating. This was, however, the 1st time I had ever replaced a CV axle.

TORTIS

iTrader: (1)

I agree. Good to know in cases you break one on the trail.

KVRunner

If you ask a shop how much they want to do it, that should be enough motivation to diy.

Team420

pretty easy, just did both of mine, replace the bj's while I was at it...prolly took 3 hrs(not including beer time).

abecedarian

And with beer time, was about 3.5 hrs.

abecedarian

And there's always the option of replacing the whole axle half-shaft which requires just as few, if not less, tools.

nevermore1701

I wouldn't mind, but thats orders of magnitude more expensive.

Team420

Damn...oughtta be able to grab a couple used axles from a bone yard for $40 or so, hell, ya could prolly get the axles and some manu hubs, for under $100 if ya look hard enough

4banginRunner

I'd do it yourself, I simply cant justify taking anything of mine to a "garage"/dealership. Do it yourself!

abecedarian

Why do you feel you need to replace a single joint... if I may ask?
And how much is the joint compared to the whole axle?

tc

Whoa there! I assumed all along that you were just going to replace the halfshaft!

IMHO, there is NO and I mean NO reason to try to repair it. A boot kit is $20-$40. A rebuilt CV is $70 at Autozone with a lifetime warranty (after core return charge). Drop the old one out, pop the new one in, take the old one back and get your refund. I know people who have spent HOURS AND HOURS trying to get the joints apart to put the new boots on (they have newer Tacomas or FJs and the CVs are WAAAAY more expensive).

T4L

X2, I was under the same assumption.