Replace rear main seal while flywheel is out?
02-13-2018, 04:13 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Replace rear main seal while flywheel is out?
1992 22RE pickup has 120K. Should I replace the rear main seal since it will be right there? Any special tool I will need to set the new one in?
02-16-2018, 09:27 AM
#3
Registered User
I agree with wyoming9.
If you ignore that advice and replace it, use a new Toyota seal which is shallower than the old one (as well as new aftermarket seals). Rear mains can leak from the rubber wearing a groove in the crankshaft, so by moving the sealing lip, you fix that problem.
Mine leaked, so with the housing on a block of wood, I tapped the ungreased seal in place with a plastic mallet and a pvc tube that fit along the outside of the seal. You can replace it without removing the housing, but only if you're absolutely sure the housing gasket isn't leaking.
If you ignore that advice and replace it, use a new Toyota seal which is shallower than the old one (as well as new aftermarket seals). Rear mains can leak from the rubber wearing a groove in the crankshaft, so by moving the sealing lip, you fix that problem.
Mine leaked, so with the housing on a block of wood, I tapped the ungreased seal in place with a plastic mallet and a pvc tube that fit along the outside of the seal. You can replace it without removing the housing, but only if you're absolutely sure the housing gasket isn't leaking.
02-17-2018, 03:10 PM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
I agree with wyoming9.
If you ignore that advice and replace it, use a new Toyota seal which is shallower than the old one (as well as new aftermarket seals). Rear mains can leak from the rubber wearing a groove in the crankshaft, so by moving the sealing lip, you fix that problem.
Mine leaked, so with the housing on a block of wood, I tapped the ungreased seal in place with a plastic mallet and a pvc tube that fit along the outside of the seal. You can replace it without removing the housing, but only if you're absolutely sure the housing gasket isn't leaking.
If you ignore that advice and replace it, use a new Toyota seal which is shallower than the old one (as well as new aftermarket seals). Rear mains can leak from the rubber wearing a groove in the crankshaft, so by moving the sealing lip, you fix that problem.
Mine leaked, so with the housing on a block of wood, I tapped the ungreased seal in place with a plastic mallet and a pvc tube that fit along the outside of the seal. You can replace it without removing the housing, but only if you're absolutely sure the housing gasket isn't leaking.
02-17-2018, 04:18 PM
#5
Registered User
Would definitely cause a break in the oil pan seal. It's just fipg (or at least should be).
I've never replaced a rear main seal with the housing still on, but I also imagine it's easier while off the engine.
I've never replaced a rear main seal with the housing still on, but I also imagine it's easier while off the engine.
02-18-2018, 04:23 AM
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
So the entire housing also uses FIPG? I did look for a part number for a gasket and could not locate one, this makes sense if it is FIPG.
02-18-2018, 05:19 AM
#7
Registered User
Well, you can use fipg behind the housing but there's a fiber gasket designed for it. Used to have the bag with the part # on it but can't find it now., Any dealer can bring it up.
I was referring to the underside surface of the housing being part of the oil pan's fipg seal. Each time I've pulled the oil pan, I had to cut all the way around with a razor, including under the rear main housing to help it let go.
I was referring to the underside surface of the housing being part of the oil pan's fipg seal. Each time I've pulled the oil pan, I had to cut all the way around with a razor, including under the rear main housing to help it let go.
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02-28-2018, 04:03 PM
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
The new Toyota seal is not as thick as the one I pulled out which is what you did mention, and is a good thing so the seal won't ride on the same spot. One question: Should I set the seal completely into the housing stop & not just flush with the housing as the original one was? It will ride further in which I assume is correct, and will not be flush anymore with the housing. Thanks.
02-28-2018, 04:12 PM
#9
Registered User
The new seal is meant to be seated as far in as it can go. If you put it in flush, it would ride on the same part of the crankshaft, and also I imagine it would be difficult to get it perfectly level.
Anyway, I tapped it down as far as it would go back in August 2016 and it's never leaked a drop. Don't forget to use some mp grease on the inside lip before putting it back onto the crank.
Anyway, I tapped it down as far as it would go back in August 2016 and it's never leaked a drop. Don't forget to use some mp grease on the inside lip before putting it back onto the crank.
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