Been trying to get the damn 60A Fusible Link or whatever the damn thing is called in the fuse box next to the battery out and have pretty much given up at this point. Has anyone just cut the damn thing out and used a 60A Inline Fuse close to the battery through to the output cable of the Fusible link instead?

I can see that the Fusible Link seems to push downwards, but I can't for the life of me figure out how to unlatch the clip or whatever so the sucker will actually push out

I have the fuse box unbolted and rotated - but there isn't room to rotate it all of the way.

 

Un-do the screws on the back?

 

Yep, you have to pull the fusebox apart and there's a bolt inside holding it on.

Hell, I replaced my link with a 10 gauge wire. That's mainly there as protection in a front end collision, and I don't plan on hitting anyone.

 

"Plan on" being the key words......

 

The thought did cross my mind to do something like that too. But I figured the fuse was there for a reason. Probably the same reason it fried on me while I was trying to jump the damn thing from my Xterra.

I have a buddy who is good with electrical stuff (Unlike me). Gonna see if he can put together a 60 AMP in line fuse, which will be allot easier to swap out in the future, then wire it into the factory wiring. Bypassing the Fusible link.

 

Something like this:



With some 8 guage wire and 60A fuses would only set me back about $20 and be much easier to swap out the fuse should there be another problem somewhere else that caused it to fry.

I guess the OEM Toyota part costs like $12 and is obviously a real pain in the ass to swap out.

I'll do a nice write up and take some pics of the install.

 

Ripped the top off of the fuse and crimped / soldered the 2 halfs together for now, just so I can start the damn thing. Will decide if I want to replace the whole thing, or buy a new link

 

Wow, that's hardcore...

Even I, as much of a daredevil as I am, wouldn't do that...

Mine can only burn between the battery and the main fuse, yours can burn from anywhere in the main wiring harness. Thise fuses are pretty cheap.

 

nice fix. hahah
good to know about the screws. I didnt know what either.

 

Damn thing still won't start anyway. I think I have another problem, sounds alot like she's not getting any fuel. Cranking real solid now tho, has been sitting about 4 - 6 weeks since she was last started.

 

Did you blow the fuse by jumpstarting backwards? That's the most popular cause of blown fusible links. That's part of the reason why they are there.

Also check to see if your check-engine light is working. You likely have blown more than just the fusible link if you've jumped it backwards.

HTH.

 

i find it interesting that people try to bypass/ cobjob something that's there for a reason. it's a fusible link for a reason, and NOT a normal fuse.

i wouldn't bypass it at all, not even to just get the truck started for the time being. now you can fry a whole lot more wiring than just a 2" piece. bad idea...

 

Nope - wasn't backwards. I believe the issue was that the ignition was on in the 4Runner when I hooked up the cables.

I do not see a 'Check Engine Light' when I turn the ignition at this point. The only lights that show are Charge / Back Door / Brake

 

EFI fuse was the problem. Finally figured out where the hell the fuse box was inside (Drivers Footwell) and replaced it and the Check light now comes on and she starts first time.