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The Repair Saga of 'Bradley'

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Old 01-30-2014, 01:22 PM   #1
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The Repair Saga of 'Bradley'

Note: I mistakenly posted this in the wrong sub-forum earlier, could a mod attend to deleting that thread?

I'm making this a general repair thread for my truck to help me not only document any repairs done, but also get assistance when I run in to problems. For the most part I have sworn off mechanics, I'll explain why shortly.

I traded a 1996 'yota Camry for this truck in August of 2013, the guy I got the truck from wasn't the original owner (he traded a Tahoe or something for it). I'm not sure how many owners it has had, cannot afford a CarFax report yet. I am, however, going to be it's final owner.anyway. Guy I got it from told me it had a little rust and brakes needed adjustment. Discovered going down the mountain that it needed more than a little brake work. Wound up replacing front calipers and discs. Rotors are soon to be replaced as well. Also discovered 'a little rust' meant that the entire frame is held together with good intentions. Will be replacing the frame soon since I've already put about $800 into the truck between brakes, calipers, spark plugs, oil, coolant, water pump, timing chain kit, universal joint (rear), fuel filter and labor to have it all installed for me.

I have just bought a fuel pump (several mechanics are convinced this is the real problem, and after I saw what was in the filter, I can believe it) and throttle position sensor (sensor failed testing as advised by Chilton's manual). I should be getting the pump and sensor by the middle of next week (ordered through Rock Auto). Chilton's is pretty straightforward and - after my wife helped out the mechanic's girlfriend - I'm getting some free help putting the pump in (I don't have all the proper tools to do it on my own, yet).

I do want to ask something: I used a .58mm feeler gauge to test the tps in the first position and a similarly off-sized one in the second position. is that hundreth of a millimeter that crucial? If so I'll definitely have to find another set of feeler gauges as the set I used had neither size called for in the Chilton's manual (the first position is .57mm, the second .80mm).

Oh yeah, the truck's name is Bradley, hence the title. Also hope this is the right forum for this.

If anyone would like, I could post my list of 'work already done', 'work to be done', and 'mods planned on being done' (though I think I'll save the latter for a 'build-up' thread if appropriate).
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Old 02-03-2014, 07:14 PM   #2
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I got my TPS and fuel pump in today. TPS is from Standard Motor Parts and the fuel pump is Denso. Both purchased from Rock Auto. Will have pics of repair work tomorrow.
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Old 02-03-2014, 10:08 PM   #3
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Did I read this correctly.. change the frame? How much are those running theae days? It seems like an awful lot of work. Hope it works out for you. You could test almost alll the parts and not buy them if they are in apec. This is going to be a very expensive build if you throw parts at it.
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Old 02-03-2014, 11:56 PM   #4
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Just seen in your signature it is an 89 4x4. I bought a beater and didn't know of the frame issues and had to replace mine. $200 for a frame and 24 hours later I had it on the road and that is where the madness started. It gave me a big boost in confidence in if I could swap a frame there wasn't much I couldn't do. I have since swapped or helped others swap frames and cabs.

I enjoy following in depth builds. You should start a build for yourself just to follow along and see where you have been and where you are going. How many have built a truck from the ground up? If you are having it done it will cost a fortune. If you are doing it yourself, with some time and patience you can cut the cost way down.
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Old 02-04-2014, 05:54 AM   #5
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only $250 for a frame? The prices of parts on these cars are all over the place! lol

Well now that Terrys87 says it's not that much work, I guess I'll take his word for it. I bet it would take me 4 full days of work
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Old 02-04-2014, 05:28 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gevo View Post
Did I read this correctly.. change the frame? How much are those running theae days? It seems like an awful lot of work. Hope it works out for you. You could test almost alll the parts and not buy them if they are in apec. This is going to be a very expensive build if you throw parts at it.
I have been trying to, but I had to wait on new meter leads. Will check the ignition coil again but I'm fairly certain if it wasn't bad, it was heading there. New one fires up no problems while the other one seemed to be struggling a bit.

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Originally Posted by Terrys87 View Post
Just seen in your signature it is an 89 4x4. I bought a beater and didn't know of the frame issues and had to replace mine. $200 for a frame and 24 hours later I had it on the road and that is where the madness started. It gave me a big boost in confidence in if I could swap a frame there wasn't much I couldn't do. I have since swapped or helped others swap frames and cabs.
Wow, that's quick. I would love to, but I am missing some really basic tools (proper set of feeler gauges, floor jack and stands, garage, though I have plenty of sockets, wrenches, and screwdrivers) and am afraid of running into stuff I won't be able to handle.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Terrys87
I enjoy following in depth builds. You should start a build for yourself just to follow along and see where you have been and where you are going. How many have built a truck from the ground up? If you are having it done it will cost a fortune. If you are doing it yourself, with some time and patience you can cut the cost way down.
I know I could put what I would save from having someone else do it into tools, but this is my family's only vehicle and we need it for my work and running around town.

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Originally Posted by Gevo View Post
only $250 for a frame? The prices of parts on these cars are all over the place! lol

Well now that Terrys87 says it's not that much work, I guess I'll take his word for it. I bet it would take me 4 full days of work
Man, that's a lot cheaper than what I would be paying for it if I got the one I had quoted to me from a user on here. I guess I should keep looking around.

Next post will feature some of the work I done today (well, just the new tps). I tested the old tps and am hoping the feeler gauges I used was 'good enough' for changing it out. I will be posting pictures in my album of all the pics I took while working (though I stopped shooting pictures once we started working on draining the tank of gas).
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Old 02-04-2014, 05:42 PM   #7
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Attached is a pic of the new TPS. It was fairly easy to replace once I removed the coolant manifold. I think I messed something up though because now my truck is registering as hot after only driving a few miles, then going back down to normal and is pretty much all over the place. The thermostat dropped out and hit the ground in the process of replacing it. Cheap fix if I busted it and nothing else is wrong. Could I have put it back upside down? I'm sure I didn't, though. I can do some checking on it tomorrow, though (and plan on it). I have some long distance driving to do (about 154 miles round trip) next Tuesday for a doctor's appointment and need my vehicle working in tip-top shape (for the most part, frame is cracked again and needs to be welded back together again).

I might take some pics of the old fuel pump, though nothing interest on it except a rest encrusted filter bag thing.
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Old 02-04-2014, 05:50 PM   #8
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Sounds to me like you got air in the coolant system. Jack up the frontend a bit and take the cap off and run it.
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Old 02-04-2014, 07:31 PM   #9
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Thanks, will do. Glad it's something easy.
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Old 02-05-2014, 12:04 AM   #10
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Thanks Gevo..I should of said 24 hours working time. It took me 12 on Saturday and 12 on Sunday to have it running and that was with the axles on the frame. With the engine and tranny out, there isn't much more to do to get the body off. 6 bolts hold the cab on, disconnect the brake and clutch line by the passenger front tire, disconnect the steering at firewall or gear box, and the electrical plug under the passenger seat and good to go. Fierohink, Foolio, and Dakotawho have done the same thing and seem to say the same thing as it is actually easy to do.

I guess it depends on where you live at for a frame. A friend of mine sold a 79 long bed frame for $100, I have a 87 standard cab frame that I would let go for $150. When I did my frame swap, I bought a whole truck with no motor, no bed and a damaged cab for $250.

When I get my 85 truck running, I am going to do an in depth picture and how to on tearing a truck down which will show how to go about doing a frame swap. I am going to paint the frame and body, just waiting for the weather to warm up.
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Old 02-05-2014, 12:34 AM   #11
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janagyjr... I get my fuel pumps off of ebay for around $30. Like you said the pump is most likely trashed since you live in the Midwest like I do. I would suggest checking the return line and looking at the tank as well. I clean mine out with white vinegar by soaking a few days and then coating with Red Kote. You can replace the tank as well as they are available.

Like was mentioned, raising the truck as high as it will go on the front end and letting the thermostat cycle a few times will get the air out of the system and help with idling. Also as far as the temp gauge issue you are having, cleaning the sensor between cylinders #3 and #4 can help on that. It gets a crust build up on it and can throw the gauge off. Cleaning all of the sensors isn't a bad idea as well.

Here are a few links
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199.../#post51633022
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Old 02-05-2014, 06:15 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terrys87 View Post
Thanks Gevo..I should of said 24 hours working time. It took me 12 on Saturday and 12 on Sunday to have it running and that was with the axles on the frame.
That's still fast-ish.

Quote:
With the engine and tranny out, there isn't much more to do to get the body off. 6 bolts hold the cab on, disconnect the brake and clutch line by the passenger front tire, disconnect the steering at firewall or gear box, and the electrical plug under the passenger seat and good to go. Fierohink, Foolio, and Dakotawho have done the same thing and seem to say the same thing as it is actually easy to do.
With nothing to lift/hold either one, I'm kind of at a loss as to how to get it done.

Quote:
I guess it depends on where you live at for a frame. A friend of mine sold a 79 long bed frame for $100, I have a 87 standard cab frame that I would let go for $150. When I did my frame swap, I bought a whole truck with no motor, no bed and a damaged cab for $250.
Stop, your deal gets better and better all the time lol

Quote:
When I get my 85 truck running, I am going to do an in depth picture and how to on tearing a truck down which will show how to go about doing a frame swap. I am going to paint the frame and body, just waiting for the weather to warm up.
Looking forward to it!

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Originally Posted by Terrys87 View Post
janagyjr... I get my fuel pumps off of ebay for around $30. Like you said the pump is most likely trashed since you live in the Midwest like I do.
How do you get 'midwest' out of McMinnville, TN?

Quote:
I would suggest checking the return line and looking at the tank as well. I clean mine out with white vinegar by soaking a few days and then coating with Red Kote. You can replace the tank as well as they are available.
I didn't have a few days, but will keep that in mind. I might not have to buy a new tank if a few days soak in vinegar will get rid of the rust.

I'll look and see what this Red Kote stuff is.

I'll still probably buy a new tank so having this one soaking with vinegar doesn't keep me still. I think I just need to replace the lines anyway. I saw a lot of rust on the metal lines going to/from brakes and gas tank.

Quote:
Like was mentioned, raising the truck as high as it will go on the front end and letting the thermostat cycle a few times will get the air out of the system and help with idling.
Since I don't have a jack or stands, will positioning it pointing up a hill work as well? I have plenty of those with a decent incline to mimic being lifted.

Quote:
Also as far as the temp gauge issue you are having, cleaning the sensor between cylinders #3 and #4 can help on that. It gets a crust build up on it and can throw the gauge off. Cleaning all of the sensors isn't a bad idea as well.
Any recommendations on cleaning? I only have a can of WD-40 at the moment.

clicky-clicky
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Old 02-06-2014, 06:10 AM   #13
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Okay, I did some googling because I'm still having coolant temp issues. Seems I might have to do several cycles of bleeding out the coolant system, but all I have right now to do it is water (I've not been using 50/50 coolant/water mix, turned to slush several days after the timing chain was replaced). I have a customer who owes me some money and I'm expecting to hear from him anytime this week (if not, I'll be knocking on his door come Monday). Would it be okay to put water in until I can get straight coolant?

Also, as I was trying to bleed the system yesterday instead of letting it idle I would rev the engine up slowly and then let it go back to idle. With the truck running at temp and idling, coolant filled the neck of the radiator (I could see it from the cab) and as I would rev it, it would sink back down. Is that normal?

I thought the system was bled because the temp gauge started to remain steady at higher rpm's but when I actually got to driving it got hot (but only during acceleration, as soon as I take my foot off the gas it went to normal immediately). I'm going to double check the thermostat is not upside down and go from there. Most likely I will test it in boiling water if it doesn't start working as expected.
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Old 02-06-2014, 06:32 AM   #14
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Tennessee has about the same climate as Missouri. I have family over around Nashville. The humidity and issues that trucks have there pretty much apply here as well.

The brown sensor in the background is your Cold Start Injector Timing Switch. I have gotten it to work just by cleaning it as well.

Is your fan clutch operating properly? It is a consumable part, is it engaging or disengaging like it should. In my experience, when it goes bad, it stays engaged all of the time and has a loud noise.

Flushing your radiator makes a big difference. The Preston kit wont clean it well enough. Usually need to pull the radiator to have a local radiator shop to power flush it. A lot of nasty gunk will come out of it.

Check your thermostat and make sure it is operating and installed correctly.

A steep incline will work for burping the system. Remove radiator cap to allow air to escape. It can shoot alot of water out. The first one or two usually isnt to hot but after that, be careful as it could burn you.

I clean my sensors with a brass wire toothbrush. Not much at a parts store. The one in my hand is the one that controls the temp gauge. With the scaling it gets on it, I have had it to mess with my guage. Cleaning it has fixed a couple of trucks. Not a bad idea to do the rest.
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Old 02-06-2014, 07:03 AM   #15
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Tennessee has about the same climate as Missouri. I have family over around Nashville. The humidity and issues that trucks have there pretty much apply here as well.
Well, okay. I'll agree with that. (:

Quote:
The brown sensor in the background is your Cold Start Injector Timing Switch. I have gotten it to work just by cleaning it as well.
Is it easy to get to? I'll have to do some reading to find out where it is exactly.

[quote]Is your fan clutch operating properly? It is a consumable part, is it engaging or disengaging like it should. In my experience, when it goes bad, it stays engaged all of the time and has a loud noise.[/quoted]

I don't know? I'll have to look and see. When I tried burping the system yesterday I was doing it by myself and didn't think of chocking my wheels on the slight incline I was on so was in the cab during the whole process.

Quote:
Flushing your radiator makes a big difference. The Preston kit wont clean it well enough. Usually need to pull the radiator to have a local radiator shop to power flush it. A lot of nasty gunk will come out of it.
How is a power flush done? Anything I can do myself I'd like to.

Quote:
Check your thermostat and make sure it is operating and installed correctly.
Going to check that it is installed correctly in just a moment, then try and burp it again (this time on a much steeper incline).

Quote:
A steep incline will work for burping the system. Remove radiator cap to allow air to escape. It can shoot alot of water out. The first one or two usually isnt to hot but after that, be careful as it could burn you.
As long as replacing what's lost with water (for now) won't hurt it I'll be good.

Quote:
I clean my sensors with a brass wire toothbrush. Not much at a parts store. The one in my hand is the one that controls the temp gauge. With the scaling it gets on it, I have had it to mess with my guage. Cleaning it has fixed a couple of trucks. Not a bad idea to do the rest.
They all look the same to me, I'm not sure what all sensors I'm looking at?

I'm really getting frustrated with my Chilton's manual.
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Old 02-06-2014, 07:12 AM   #16
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All of the sensors are easy to get to. The thermostat sensor (in my hand) is a 17mm deep well if I remember correctly.

The brown sensor is up front under the theromstat on the intake. (brown connector, CSI Timing Switch)

The Water Thermo Senor has the green connector, it is beside the brown one.

The vacuum sensor, not sure what it does but it does get scaling on it and cant hurt to clean it.

You might soak the radiator in some CLR for a few hours and shake it around a few times.

How cold is it in your area? It is 10 degrees here. That is cold enough to crack a block. Make sure you have some antifreeze in your mixture. Atleast a 50/50 mix.

I feel your frustration with Chiltons Manual. A Haynes Manual works great. I have the Factory Service Manual, Haynes, and Chilton. I use my Haynes more then my FSM. I never use Chilton. Several will say to use a FSM. Even it says it is for advanced users and except for two things Haynes works great. The FSM is nice to have but is not needed.

Last edited by Terrys87; 02-06-2014 at 07:19 AM.
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Old 02-06-2014, 07:58 AM   #17
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All of the sensors are easy to get to. The thermostat sensor (in my hand) is a 17mm deep well if I remember correctly.

The brown sensor is up front under the theromstat on the intake. (brown connector, CSI Timing Switch)
I think I may have found them. I was about to ask about those two right near my thermostat.

Quote:
The Water Thermo Senor has the green connector, it is beside the brown one.
See aboe.

Quote:
The vacuum sensor, not sure what it does but it does get scaling on it and cant hurt to clean it.
It couldn't hurt to do a lot of things to this truck. ):

Quote:
You might soak the radiator in some CLR for a few hours and shake it around a few times.
I'll see about doing it asap.

Quote:
How cold is it in your area? It is 10 degrees here. That is cold enough to crack a block. Make sure you have some antifreeze in your mixture. Atleast a 50/50 mix.
There is already antifreeze, 75% was two gallons of straight anti-freeze, the other 50/50 mix.

Quote:
I feel your frustration with Chiltons Manual. A Haynes Manual works great. I have the Factory Service Manual, Haynes, and Chilton. I use my Haynes more then my FSM. I never use Chilton. Several will say to use a FSM. Even it says it is for advanced users and except for two things Haynes works great. The FSM is nice to have but is not needed.
What is sad is Haynes puts out Chilton's.
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Old 02-08-2014, 09:05 AM   #18
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Finally got around to testing the old ignition coil (which seems to be a from-the-factory Denso coil).

Primary side resistance is 200mΩ (or 0.2Ω, same difference)

Secondary side resistance is 12.8kΩ

Chilton's list the acceptable range's as:

Primary 0.4Ω -0.5Ω
Secondary 8.5kΩ- 11.5kΩ

Yeah, bad coil.

I've also attached a picture of the old fuel pump. All the rust particles are very fine. Hopefully I can keep the current tank for a little longer. I'm going to a local pick-and-pull that has several to choose from. $15+ tax if I pull it myself (should be easy enough).

If the new-to-me tank is in good enough condition, I plan on Red Kote'ing the old tank and either keeping it as a spare or figuring out a way to do dual gas tanks on the truck. Would it be feasible on such a small truck to do that? Or is that just a pipe dream. I could use the extended range a second full-sized tank would give me as I'd like to be able to service customers throughout the mid-state and beyond (I'm a licensed electrician fwiw).
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Old 02-08-2014, 06:38 PM   #19
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Next on my To-Do list (which isn't actually on the list but needs to be): repair high-beam functionality.
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Old 02-08-2014, 10:57 PM   #20
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I would like another tank and using a stock tank as an extra looked to me like there wasn't much room, but I didn't even try to see if one would actually fit. Something I just was wondering about as well.

The headlight problem is a freebie fix. I have it listed below on my 88 runner build thread on the first page on how to fix it. Usually just the contact in the headlight assembly just needs cleaned. I use fine grit sand paper (2000) or the wifes finger nail file kit.
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