I want to replace the piston rings myself, but I'm about to take the truck to a shop because of how complicated it seems to be (and because of a lack of tools)

Can you take out the pistons without removing the head? Also, what has to be done to get the pistons out? Any guide? I have Chilton manual and it is of no help when coming to pistons/rings.

 

no the pistons will not come out the bottom!

you must pull the head.

1. pull the oil pan
2. pull the head
3. pull the rod caps
4. from the bottom, push the piston out the top of the block

 

You make it sound so easy. What about the front wheels? I went underneathe the truck today and to get to the oil pan I have the front suspension in the way of everything.

I'm guessing radiator has to come off too :-( That was hell to get to stop leaking since we replaced all of those hoses.

 

you can do 1 of 3 things.

1. unbolt motor mounts and jack up the front of the motor then slip the pan out.
2. drop the front diff then pull the pan. this one gives you more room than option 1
3. pull the motor and do it that way. i prefer this method, if i have to go that far into the block i always pull it out and get it checked at a machine shop.

and about the radiator, it comes out also.

 

If you're replacing pistons and rings, you should first of all pull the engine to do it. When you replace the pistons and rings, you need to hone the cylinder walls. You might as well replace the bearings and oil seals while you're in there as well. I've never seen anyone just replace the pistons and rings.

 

Of course. i wasn't going to put it all back together and NOT replace those.

I'm thinking I may just take it to a shop. I don't have a rig to lift out the motor, so the only access would be from underneath. Seems going from underneath will add a lot of extra work to the job. Definitely sounds like a job for the shop.

Now I just need to call around and get price quotes. Anyone know what prices I should be expecting to pay?

 

The pistons could be taken out the bottom by removing the crank right? Im pretty sure thats possible but you wont be able to put it back together without instlling them through the top or if you did it would be the biggest PITA

Its easy to DIY it is time and youll want alot of good tools. I say go for it and gain the knowledge and tools cause if you do this once my bet is down the road your gonna do similar again(maybe not to your truck but something)

DIY IMO Dont be scared its not rocket science!

 

x2. Get the tools and the knowledge. My saying is, "If you have do it once, your going to have to do again."

 

Be prepared for 2k+- just warning you. Buy the tools and DIY will be the best money and knowledge gaining experience! I recommend that to everyone.

(knowledge is Gold!)

 

id love to do this myself. But things in my life need to stabilize first. Im moving into a new apartment, i just started a new job a week ago and i would need to arrange a ride to work while the truck is out of service. I was already expecting to pay 2000 for an auto shop to do the repair. Id still be missing the truck for a few days, but compared to my doing it myself the truck would be our of service for two or even three weeks. Ill see what options i have as far as doing it myself. Maybe ill be able to borrow one of my parents cars.

 

I hear ya its not always plausible! I know that!

I wish you luck with it and hope its back on the road soon!

 

no they cant, my friend found this out the hard way(trial&error) lol. he tried to pull the piston out threw the bottom and it came out of the cylinder wall but there is a void between the cylinder wall and where the rod comes threw.
the rings uncompressed in this void so then he couldn't push it out threw the top lol.. if iirc he got it out, but had to get new pistons because he damaged the piston trying to get it out.

 

yeah, you do indeed need time, place, tools, input to get the engine out and done and run again...
A reputable shop is gonna charge about $1000 for removal and replacement (R&R), and a rebuilt long block is another $1500+, and don't do all that without replacing the clutch ($150) surface the flywheel, check the motor mounts, and be ready for some miscellaneous additional charges. Budget $3,000. Anyone I've ever talked to who took it to a shop for a new engine, paid at least that for a turnkey job. If anyone is going to do it for much less, it probably won't go the miles you expect from your Yota.

 

IC yeah I wasnt sure about it. Good to know! your need to take it ll apart anyway so might aswell do it the right way called in the FSM

 

No good sized tree limbs near by. (You laugh I actually had to pull one engine using a snatch block and limb, went back with a John deere Bucket)

When I worked at a local machine Shop here it was $8 per hole for a bore + $3 per hole for a hone (every hole must be honed after boring) plus cleaning fees (varies per shop per engine) Piston pin removal and install varied on piston type

22r Engine rebuild kit runs $500 from Advance Auto (Sealed Power Brand, not junk but not great, cast pistons instead of Hyperutectic and bearings arent Clevite 77's just clevites )

 

I think I'm going to do this myself. I really want to, but I'll have to delay the project until I'm all moved into a new apartment. So it won't be for a month or two.

Until then, what can I do to slow the leak aside from adding thicker oil? Any additives known to work (like alemite cd-2)?

Also, do I need a crane or a hoist to lift the engine out, or would I be able to do it piece by piece? Where might I be able to rent a crane/hoist?

 

I'm still wondering about oil additives.

But also, does anyone know of a good place to buy or rent a rig to lift the engine?

I don't HAVE to lift the engine out of the bay, but it seems a lot easier than removing the front differential and suspension. Where would I begin on removing the front suspension system to get to the oil pan easier?

 

What are the symptoms that have you wanting to take on this job?

Rob

 

1: Blowing smoke on startup (thick clouds)
2: New head job, and valve job and gaskets (so it couldn't be leaky valves)
3: new hoses (every single hose was replaced during the head job)
4: burning large amounts of oil between changes
5: I've had 5 people look at it and say it's the piston rings.

I think that's about it.

 

A folding shop crane is like $200. I don't know where you are, but out east space gets expensive, my folding shop crane lives at my buddy's shop, mine's already full. Folded will be about the size of a fridge. You'll find a shop crane very useful for all kinds of things (I've moved my Bridgeport and lathe with mine).

You'll want the engine leveler which is probably $40-$60.

You can probably rent one, but I can't imagine renting it to pull the engine + renting it to drop the engine back in is that much cheaper than just buying one.

You may want an engine stand if you don't have a decent bench to stick it on while you're tearing it apart. I don't know how much those go for, but your local autoparts shop probably has one in stock, or you can check summit or any of the local shop's online sites to see what those go for.

I know spending money on stuff sucks. What's great about buying tools is you can *do* stuff with them. There's enough ads and commercials trying to get you to buy you stuff you don't need (ie a new fridge when yours works perfectly well, upgrade tv etc). You can buy, use, and abuse a decent wrench you can expect to give to your grandkids. A cheap shop crane might not be that, but you can see the real value there.

Good luck!

Good luck man.