Spending money does suck, but when it's on something useful it's always good. I just hate it when I rent something (like a torque wrench) and it ends up costing $25, which that $25 could have gone to purchasing one for the future. I might actually fork over some money for the crane. Or maybe I'll fabricate my own. Do I actually need it, though? I mean, if I'm taking the head off and getting access to it via the oil pan, couldn't I just as easily just lift the bottom block out with another person's help?

 

if you want some pics of a few how to do the rings and pistons just click my myspace link at the bottom and click on day1 day2 and so on there all in there

 

I semi fixed the problem. What happened was I added some bad oil that had some brake cleaner mixed in with it. I got the oil from my girlfriend's grandpa, who had a few things of oil sitting in the garage. The brake cleaner was causing the smoke on startup.

So I drained the oil and added some new stuff today. Works fine.

BUT! I'm still adamant about doing the piston rings. Seems like a good project. Seeing as how the truck has 235k on it now, It's probably a good time to do it. I know it has bad compression already, as getting up to speed is slow. My truck goes from 0-60 in 6.5 minutes (joking, but it's still bad enough to where I don't need a compression test to see what's wrong with it.) Going from 0-60 takes more like 35 seconds. Going on a drive to a very hilly place (hilly = place with lots of steep hills) forces me into second or third gear with a max speed of 25 mph. I know it's getting bad.

But before I begin this project, do I even need to remove the front differentials? How would I remove them?

 

i got a longblock installed for ~$1200 w/a gaurantee. might wanna look into it if lacking in the tool department...

ive replaced rings and just honed before. would never do it that way again
pull the motor!
take the time to do it right or dont do it at all!

bardhals no leak/smoke works for bad rings...(only a band aid)

 

I'm definitely pulling the engine. Taking it back to carquest to have it rehoned and bored.

Should I buy the .030 pistons and have them bore it to fit the .030 pistons, or should I have it bored and then buy the pistons? Im thinking they might *MIGHT* have to bore more than .030, which is why I'm asking if I should wait.

 

Ive always had to have the pistons before they did the machine work"bore&hone".

 

Did you do a compression test, wet and dry? Thats a good way to pick out worn rings and an overall idea of whats going on in the block. There may be other culprits for your lack of power, burning alot of oil doesnt do the o2 sensor much good or your convertor.

 

already been through that. no need for compression test, as the problem is definitely worn piston rings.

o2 sensor is also going to be replaced right after the piston rings are fixed. I'm going to take the truck into a muffler shop and get a (new) catylitic converter and a new muffler, as well as have them replace the o2 sensors.

so I should definitely buy the pistons BEFORE i take the engine to the shop to have it bored?