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relays going crazy now

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Old 06-28-2014, 06:38 PM
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relays going crazy now

when i go to crank the truck the efi relay, open circuit relay, starter relay and my starter all start making a fast clicking sound. Yesterday i was getting fuel pressure but no start or crank at all or none of this clicking in the relays. today i pulled the starter and the battery and went and had them checked and they tested good to go. So i went back hooked everything back up and now all this craziness started plus now I'm not getting any fuel pressure but the fuse is not blowing. wtf:b ah:
Old 06-28-2014, 07:08 PM
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Any ground issues? Many times I've seen the craziest stuff from bad ground connections or low voltage in the batt but it sounds like you've checked that. Call a priest.
Old 06-28-2014, 07:08 PM
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Get the DMM out and check the actual voltage of the battery. Battery voltage drops, clicking starts happening. All the ground wires connected?

Last edited by rworegon; 06-28-2014 at 07:18 PM.
Old 06-29-2014, 01:07 AM
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Red face

Sounds like low voltage in the system.

What from hard to say poor connections

low battery

Sounds like a wiring nightmare .

My first step is always to replace all the ground cables with new heavier ones and go from there.

So many just look and say " Ok the grounds are good"

Could be loose connections in the fuse block the block sides get loose from not using a fuse puller and wiggling the fuse back and fourth pulling it out .

Bottom line you need some real numbers
Old 06-29-2014, 03:48 PM
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Like RWoregon and wyoming say above. Low battery voltage.

OR bad battery connections.
Old 06-30-2014, 06:49 AM
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Check the voltage on the truck's battery terminals, not the battery posts. I've seen plenty of 12.8 V batteries that have bad connections so the terminal voltages drop to like 5v once you turn the key on.
Old 06-30-2014, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by mct75
Check the voltage on the truck's battery terminals, not the battery posts. I've seen plenty of 12.8 V batteries that have bad connections so the terminal voltages drop to like 5v once you turn the key on.
Good point. Check both terminal and post. Do not underestimate what a little corrosion can do. My first-hand experience here.

To make it easy and as a good indicator for my battery/charging system,
I use this cigarette lighter socket voltmeter."><span style=I use this cigarette lighter socket voltmeter." /> I use this cigarette lighter socket voltmeter.">I use this cigarette lighter socket voltmeter.
Old 06-30-2014, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by RAD4Runner
Good point. Check both terminal and post. Do not underestimate what a little corrosion can do.
Yep, and what's worse is you can clip some jumper cables or a battery charger to it, and the pressure from those alligator clips can fix the connection temporarily, so it absolutely looks like a bad battery.

A buddy of mine's Jeep did this exact thing. He was so cheap he ended up smashing the terminal onto the post with a pair of vice grips and left it that way.
Old 06-30-2014, 06:29 PM
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Okay so today i found a good diagram and found out that again my grounds where wrong. Last night i was getting that rapid clicking sound in my circuit open relay. Today i had my batt and starter tested and fixed my grounds and checked and rechecked all my connections which were good. I even replaced my batt terminals. So i went to turn the key and nothing no clicking at all and no fuses blowing so I'm wondering if my circuit open relay is bad and that i could of fried it last night when i felt and heard that rapid clicking sound in it. I even tried jumping and nothing and also no fuses blew. Now I've got this circuit open relay on my kitchen table with an ohmmeter and the thing has five prongs. I'm getting continuity between the top and bottom prong closest to the side the mount is on. Problem is i don't know what that means. Sorry I'm such a pain guys but i really appreciate the help. Do you guys think the circuit open relay is bad????? If not what else could it possibly be when i don't have any blown fuses.
Old 06-30-2014, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by mattg1982@yahoo.com
O... checked and rechecked all my connections which were good. ...
But did you take voltage readings as we had suggested above?


Do you guys think the circuit open relay is bad????? If not what else could it possibly be when i don't have any blown fuses.
I don't think so. Don't mess with the C.O.R., YET

First check if you're even getting power.
Do headlights work?
Taillight?
Horn?
Hazards?
Turn signal?
Dome Light?
Radio?
Open your fuse block in the engine compartment.
Measure voltage at each of the fuses, post a picture with what voltage you get at each fuse. (Remember we are thousands of miles from you. We need to "see" what's going on.)

Then we'll go from there.

BTW, why not put your truck-year-model-engine on your sig to make it easy for those who want to help?

Last edited by RAD4Runner; 06-30-2014 at 07:50 PM.
Old 06-30-2014, 11:36 PM
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Red face

Just how were your grounds wrong?? Explain??

Just what kind of battery terminals did you get??

The kind you crimp on the cables?

Marine style with a post using crimp on lugs on the cables??

Has your battery now discharged to the point it no longer does anything??

You really need to take some real voltage readings we have done about all we can without.
Old 07-02-2014, 08:04 AM
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Got her running finally!! It was a blown alternator fuse. Replaced it and she fired right up btw my truck is 93 yota pickup dlx 2.4. Now problem is she sounds like crap. Not idleing right or running smooth. Its like wah wah wah waaah rpms keep going up and down when it idles. Is that timing or maybe throttle position sensor???? How should i correct this issue.
Old 07-02-2014, 08:09 AM
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Thanks for the help guys i wouldnt have gotten this far without yall. This truck mean the world to me.
Old 07-02-2014, 04:08 PM
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As for the idle going up and down, I'd start looking for a vacuum leak first....intake tube, hoses, gaskets, etc.
Old 07-02-2014, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by mattg1982@yahoo.com
Got her running finally!! It was a blown alternator fuse.
Glad you got her going. However, I'm curious... where's the "Alternator" fuse? Or could it be the charge fuse? That's in the fuse block in engine compartment?
Old 07-03-2014, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by RAD4Runner
Glad you got her going. However, I'm curious... where's the "Alternator" fuse? Or could it be the charge fuse? That's in the fuse block in engine compartment?
Yes its in the engine compartment fuse box. 80amp and on the fuse box lid diagram its labled ALT. It has the wires straight from the batt bolted to it so if it ever blows dont waste ur time trying to pull it like i did bc ur only gonna break it like i did. U have to pull it out from the BOTTOM of the fuse box then unbolt the wires. Make sure u take pics before u unbolt them!
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