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I've been lurking here for a couple weeks now, but thought I'd ask for some advice for real.
The background: My late grandfather's truck, a 1991 4WD regular cab 22RE/5-speed, has been sitting at my parents' place in Washington state for ~4 years. It used to be my truck; I drove it across the country, used it in grad school in New York and Illinois, and gave it back to my father when I moved back to Washington. He drove it for a few years, sold it to my brother who never used it and there it has sat. Until this week--I bought it back from my brother and want to bring the truck back to Illinois, where I live now. Lots of sentimental value and I got it dirt cheap.
According to my father, it has ~190,000 miles on it now, and I asked him specifically if he or my brother had ever replaced any parts on it since I gave it back to him. He said no, so I know it needs a new starter (it was starting to give out when I had the truck) and new ball joints (knocking at full lock when I had it). After reading here, I think it would be prudent to replace the timing chain and guides too, and I'm planning on fresh fluids for everything, coolant flush, fuel filter, and of course things like 12V battery and tires. I've read a few threads on starting an engine that's been sitting, so I'm planning on squirting diesel in the cylinders and turning it over by hand to make sure the rings aren't stuck before I attempt starting it.
My plan is to fly out at the end of May, and I'll have a week and a half or so before I'll have to leave for Illinois (or give up and fly back lol). I have some experience working on cars; I've swapped out struts on a few cars, replaced brakes and hoses and bled brakes on several, flushed cooling systems, etc. But I've never changed a timing chain, replaced a ball joint, or anything more invasive like that. Also, at my parents' place I won't have access to air tools, just hand tools.
So, my questions are: stupid idea or doable? Is this something I can tackle, or should I just make an appointment to have it towed to my parents' mechanic (longtime, I completely trust him) and have him do it? And what other parts should I plan on replacing? I have a few months, so I thought I would start compiling a list of parts and have everything sent to my parents' house so it's there when I arrive. I also have the '93 FSM from the links here (thanks for that!), and I can follow directions, if that makes a difference.
I've been lurking here for a couple weeks now, but thought I'd ask for some advice for real.
The background: My late grandfather's truck, a 1991 4WD regular cab 22RE/5-speed, has been sitting at my parents' place in Washington state for ~4 years. It used to be my truck; I drove it across the country, used it in grad school in New York and Illinois, and gave it back to my father when I moved back to Washington. He drove it for a few years, sold it to my brother who never used it and there it has sat. Until this week--I bought it back from my brother and want to bring the truck back to Illinois, where I live now. Lots of sentimental value and I got it dirt cheap.
According to my father, it has ~190,000 miles on it now, and I asked him specifically if he or my brother had ever replaced any parts on it since I gave it back to him. He said no, so I know it needs a new starter (it was starting to give out when I had the truck) and new ball joints (knocking at full lock when I had it). After reading here, I think it would be prudent to replace the timing chain and guides too, and I'm planning on fresh fluids for everything, coolant flush, fuel filter, and of course things like 12V battery and tires. I've read a few threads on starting an engine that's been sitting, so I'm planning on squirting diesel in the cylinders and turning it over by hand to make sure the rings aren't stuck before I attempt starting it.
My plan is to fly out at the end of May, and I'll have a week and a half or so before I'll have to leave for Illinois (or give up and fly back lol). I have some experience working on cars; I've swapped out struts on a few cars, replaced brakes and hoses and bled brakes on several, flushed cooling systems, etc. But I've never changed a timing chain, replaced a ball joint, or anything more invasive like that. Also, at my parents' place I won't have access to air tools, just hand tools.
So, my questions are: stupid idea or doable? Is this something I can tackle, or should I just make an appointment to have it towed to my parents' mechanic (longtime, I completely trust him) and have him do it? And what other parts should I plan on replacing? I have a few months, so I thought I would start compiling a list of parts and have everything sent to my parents' house so it's there when I arrive. I also have the '93 FSM from the links here (thanks for that!), and I can follow directions, if that makes a difference.
I think it comes down a mix of the value of your time, if you find working on older vehicles enjoyable/satisfying, and the condition of the truck/potential value if you get it in good working order again.
Do you have to burn the week and a half of vacation time anyways and there's nothing better to do because of COVID so this sounds like a fun project and a cool story to tell after if you get it to work? Any maybe you'll get to spend some quality time with family at the same time? Do it.
Could you work for that week and a half and make more money than it would cost you to have it towed to a local mechanic to get it up and running. Then, you could fly in and just drive it back home.
As far as your ability to get it running again... while the 22RE's are known for their longevity, there's a lot of little issues that can add up and cause headaches, especially in an older, neglected truck. You may not have enough time to 'learn on the job' and properly diagnose issues you run into, and come away from the whole thing having to fly back home. I purchased basically the same truck this past summer, slightly neglected by the PO, and fortunately I've had the time to slowly work through some of the various issues it came with / developed. Currently dealing with a confusing one right now. But if I had to get it all buttoned up and trust its reliability for a cross country drive in a week, could I do it? Probably not, and based on your post, I'd say we have about the same level of mechanical ability.
Maybe you could spend a few hundred bucks ahead of time and have it towed to that mechanic and have them make you a punch list of things that need to get taken care of? That way you can research the fixes and show up with a plan and the right parts/tools.
Ultimately no one can answer this question for you, but the idea is sort of romantic, and perhaps some of my ramblings can help you make your decision.
Another option to throw out there is to have it hauled from where it is now to where you want it to be. My buddy did this recently on a multi-state move and it worked out very well. After you price out the mechanic, the plane ticket, the stops at hotels on the way back and the inevitable unplanned stops for repairs along the way, it might well be a low-risk option. If it works out, you could grab the truck this way a lot sooner than May, work through the issues at your convenience and drive it back there this summer for a vacation shakedown road trip.
Bad idea. You seem to know that already
Hire it done for you? How much are you willing to spend?
I have found that buying parts in anticipation not a good idea either. Easy enough to procure expeditiously when you know what you need.
You got it "dirt cheap", so you should be able to finance a car hauler to move it for you.
It will probably cost more to have it shipped as a "roller" than as a "driver".
My $0.02
Bad idea. You seem to know that already
Hire it done for you? How much are you willing to spend?
I have found that buying parts in anticipation not a good idea either. Easy enough to procure expeditiously when you know what you need.
You got it "dirt cheap", so you should be able to finance a car hauler to move it for you.
It will probably cost more to have it shipped as a "roller" than as a "driver".
My $0.02
This brings up another point, "What will it be worth at the end of the process?" If the OP does a good and thorough job on the restoration and does the mechanical work himself, he will not be sad when he gets his number back from the insurance appraiser when he runs it by there after he gets it back from the paint shop. It's a $10K+ truck and climbing. If it was me, I would get it on the hauler before anybody there in Washington wised up.
Thanks for the replies, everyone--some excellent points.
I did consider having it hauled back here, but that's complicated by not having anywhere to store it/work on it for the next several months. I'm in the process of buying a house, so I'll have a garage later this spring but not at the moment (in an apartment right now and my DD uses the one spot I'm allocated).
Yeah, I think in my gut I know it's a bad idea to try and rehab it myself with a deadline. I'm not looking for a monetary return; its value to me is sentimental, and this time I don't intend to let it go, so I'm willing to pay whatever it takes to get it running and reliable long-term. I do enjoy working on cars and learning how to work on them, and I'm graduating this spring with an engineering degree after going back to school, so I can find my way around mechanical systems. But maybe in this case it's better to let my parents' mechanic have at it.
Thanks for the replies, everyone--some excellent points.
I did consider having it hauled back here, but that's complicated by not having anywhere to store it/work on it for the next several months. I'm in the process of buying a house, so I'll have a garage later this spring but not at the moment (in an apartment right now and my DD uses the one spot I'm allocated).
Yeah, I think in my gut I know it's a bad idea to try and rehab it myself with a deadline. I'm not looking for a monetary return; its value to me is sentimental, and this time I don't intend to let it go, so I'm willing to pay whatever it takes to get it running and reliable long-term. I do enjoy working on cars and learning how to work on them, and I'm graduating this spring with an engineering degree after going back to school, so I can find my way around mechanical systems. But maybe in this case it's better to let my parents' mechanic have at it.
Excellent plan. Also congratulations on the degree! My point on the value aspect was that as you go along restoring the truck, you will have many little decision points about how much time, effort and expense you want to put into it. Its worth the expensive paint job and the high dollar OEM parts and being treated like the vintage collectible it is. If you can afford to do the job right, do the job right and you won't be disappointed.
Excellent plan. Also congratulations on the degree! My point on the value aspect was that as you go along restoring the truck, you will have many little decision points about how much time, effort and expense you want to put into it. Its worth the expensive paint job and the high dollar OEM parts and being treated like the vintage collectible it is. If you can afford to do the job right, do the job right and you won't be disappointed.
Thanks, that's good advice! And that right there is one of the reasons I bought this truck back--because now I can afford to do it right, and because my brother has left it to sit for years. It deserves better than that.
Give it a big ole hug when you get to Washington...
then when your able and ready have it shipped home. About 3k to have the timing chain and guides done. ( they'll remove the head and oil pan) it's a pretty big job and with all the seals, gaskets and parts it adds up quickly.
you'll save a LOT of money doing the work yourself, plus the fun of getting to know your old friend on a very intimate level. Congrats and keep us informed on your project.
Thanks for the advice, everyone. Update as of a few minutes ago: the truck is on its way to my parents' mechanic, who's going to get it to start and run and then go over it and give me a list of what needs addressing and then I'll decide from there how to proceed. It's got some rust over the rear fender that wasn't there last time I saw it 4 years ago. I've been poring over the FSM online and ordered a hard copy (two volumes plus wiring diagrams) a few days ago.
I'm unexpectedly at my parents' home for a couple weeks, so I thought I'd get an early start on the truck before I come back to drive it to Illinois this summer. The mechanic jumped it and it started right up, so I knew it would run; run it up the street to knock the rust off the brakes, he said, and it should be fine to drive. So today I bought a new battery, dropped it in, and drove it the few miles to my parents'. That route includes a long hill, and it struggled a little to get up--maybe the 4-year-old gas. But otherwise it seems to be just fine; no rattle from the timing chain and cover, no coolant in the oil. When I adjust the valves I'll check the timing chain guides visually. Ordered new tires that arrived today, General Grabber AT/X in 235/75R-15, and I'll have them mounted tomorrow or the day after. First step is cleaning all the fir needles and tree crap out of it (there are needles everywhere) and PB Blaster all the drain and fill plugs so I can swap all the fluids next week. The interior, at least, cleans up pretty nicely, and there are no holes or tears in the carpet or seats. All the maintenance records going back to when I had the truck in grad school 10+ years ago were in the glovebox, so I know exactly what's been replaced--clutch, hard brake lines, front rotors and pads, etc. My father had thought it had 190,000 miles on it, but it turns out it only has 162,000. After I vacuumed everything I put in Husky laser-fit liners. New shift knobs are coming from Low-Range Off Road to replace the crappy auto-parts-store-special that were on there.
Here it is with its long-lost brother, my father's 1999 Tacoma:
If Hallmark wants the rights, I'm happy to make a deal. Here's a photo I found in an old album today of my grandfather the day he bought it, in 1996 or 1997, at Parker Toyota in Coeur d'Alene, ID. He was in his late 80s at the time.
I'm not sure when or where it lost the stripes.
Very cool! Its got some character but with 162k, its got a lot of life left.
and that interior is in great shape, theres not even a rip in the driverside bench
Last edited by swampedout; 04-07-2021 at 06:15 PM.
I bought polish and sealant today but haven't got a chance to wash it yet. I did get the battery properly secured (it's a Group 24, which I think is larger than what these came with originally but was what came up in the parts store computer?), got the new tires mounted and started swapping out fluids and filters. It looks a little more butch now with the Grabbers:
The driver's side axle boot is torn, so I'll have to address that when I come back. New valance panel should arrive here in the next couple weeks, and the new rear bumper is here and waiting to go on.
What do you know, most of the crap washed right off! After I took this I gave it a good polish and wax, and this morning I put the new front valance on and straightened out the license plate mounting. It got new front axles, lower control arms, and brakes while I was gone the last month and a half, so the front end looks pretty good now. A few fluids left to swap (differentials, transmission, transfer case), valve adjustment, and then I'll drive it back to Illinois middle of next week or so. Oh, and the new rear bumper needs to go on--I've sprayed the bolts down twice now with PB Blaster and will have at them with a breaker bar tomorrow.
If they're accessable, an impact socket is a great way to break them. Break them LOOSE hopefully, but if they break off, you can just drill them out. Of course a long breaker bar, with an extension if needed, will usually work pretty well too. I always called an extension a "torque amplifier"
When you set the valves, it's a good opportunity to replace the PCV and it's grommet. The grommet gets brittle, and can break apart when you try to remove it. With the valve cover off, it can't drop bits and pieces down into the head. Make sure that if you DO replace the PCValve, you use an OEM brand. Not some generic cheapie. It may be a bit more, but well worth the money.
The valve cover gaskets, too, if needed.
Also, it's a good chance the set the idle RPM, and the timing, if needed. May as well while you're doing.
I drove my truck from a Home Depot parking lot in Tacoma, WA to Laramie WY then to Oakland shipyards. Upon hearing of my journey, the PO gave me a look then gave me a socket set and some other basic tools and sent me on my way. Glad he did because I got a crash course in basic automotive diagnostics and repair (lucky I had a 3g bucket for the alternator replacement!) with only minimal experience and zero engineering degree. The truck made it here to the islands and since then it’s given me the opportunity to learn more about these amazing machines. You got this my dude.
02-17-2021, 04:45 PM
