I have started rebuilding my IFS. The main reason for doing this is that I could no longer hold a front end alignment and the suspension would barely articulate. After closer inspection, the left lower rear bushing was toast and the rest weren't too far behind. Utah road salt had finally taken it's toll.

The control arms for the left side are off. I contemplated replacing them with stock bushings but decided that poly was the best way to go. I know there is the squeaking issue, but I'll try it anyway. So, out with the torch and out with the rubber and inner bushings.

The new inner bushings are currently being turned at my favorite local machine shop since Energy Suspensions didn't provide any. It is still cheaper than replacing with stock rubber bushings sets. I'll post the drawings will be soon.

Also, I'll get some pics posted soon.

D

 

Here are the PDF's of the drawings for the four inner bushings for Energy Suspensions' IFS bushing kit for the 91-95 truck.

3125-I Upper Front Control Arm Bushing

3126-I Upper Rear Control Arm Bushing.pdf

3129-I Lower Control Arm Bushing.pdf

 

You probably already know this, and possibly is the part at the machine shop.....but you need to reuse the shells from the bushings. You have to melt out the rubber and put them on the outside of your poly bushings. I understand it is a complete pain in the ass. I'm not sure exactly what function they serve, but it is necessary.

I don't understand why they aren't included with the new bushings if the company understands A) the need and B) the difficulty involved in trying to save them.

You can't pry the rubber out, or you bend the shells to hell. Gotta melt that rubber out.

GOOD LUCK! Post pics!

 

actually it IS possible to "press" the bushings out of the arms.

You have to use a H frame press.
Crank up the pressure, spray with a lubricant and wait patiently.
About 20 min...then carnk the pressure again.
The rubber moves a few mm at a time...

At the end you have
-- clean shells already in the arm
-- you can cut the rubber off the inner sleeve with a sawzall (most of the way) and fine cut with a hand held hack saw blade.

Its not easy for sure.

Given the properties of poly - Nylon would be a better bushing material.
Even Total Chaos now make Nylatonr bushing replacement (for their LT arms).

 

I pressed the outer shells out of the arms with any problems. After a nice warm up with the torch, the rubber bushings popped right out.

What I found was rather alarming as it akes me wonder what the previous owner did with the truck. On a couple of the bushings, the rubber was very elongated around the inner bushing and looked like it ripped free. One of these bushings wasn't even attached to the outer sleeve. It just popped right out.

After measuring the bolts and inner bushings, I opted to make new ones. The inner bushings were very ovaled and worn. On average there was about 0.030" difference between the bolt OD's and the inner bushing ID's. In some areas on the upper control arm shaft, there was as much as 0.060" difference.

 

ewong: I don't think the nylon bushings from TC will work. They are for the caddy conversion only. The spousal unit probably would go over the edge if I ordered the Caddy ball joint arms conversion from them.

 

That's a good thing.
You want to stay away from poly or nylon and stick with rubber.





Fred

 

I'm going with poly. I've had good luck with the rear springs hangars using poly bushings. Rubber doesn't last long in Utah with all the road salt. Also, I had absolutely no articulation with the OEM rubber bushings. In fact the upper arms had a nasty upward preload without the torsion bars.

 

Here is a pic of the left side stripped down to the frame being prepped for POR15. I blew a CV boot, so there is some serious degreasing going on.


The control arm shaft and lower bolts w/cams are cleaned and ready for coating -- just awaiting the bushings.



I'll get started on the cleaning the arms tonight.