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Rebuild FIRST start!

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Old 11-03-2009, 08:22 PM   #1
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Rebuild FIRST start!

Okay so after about two weeks of sanding/polishing...and a new set of bearings to mess up, i was able to get my number 1 connecting rod bearings to free up enough to allow the truck to spin with only a minor rough (when turning engine with wrench, it gets harder for about a 1/32 or 1/16 rotation of the crank... not real hard though, just harder) spot. Charged the battery, had the charger on engine start... got it started! anyway, it ran really rough, im assuming because the timing hasnt been done yet. ...I have hooked up my plug wires wrong once before in the past, the engine started but was reallllllly rough and made some lower end frequency level noises. It kind of did this on the initial start...

I'm wondering, the plug order from the distrib. i know the firing order is 1=3=4=2 but i want to make sure that i did it right...lol although im sure i did, just need to double quadruple check. first plug is 11 oclock. 1 o clock spot on the distrib should go to the 3rd cylinder correct? and so on?


Also, on the donut hole gaskets for the lower exhaust manifold clamp...the initial start spewed exhaust from it. I'm assuming it needs to be fully warmed up to complete the seal?

Last edited by 9o7yota; 11-03-2009 at 08:24 PM.
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Old 11-03-2009, 08:29 PM   #2
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if you can't turn your crank by hand...(of course im talkin about just the crank and pistons...without the head on there..or with the sparkplugs out..either way NO COMPRESSION)..then your gonna have problems...

my crank was smooooth as butter when i spun it before i put the head on there...so that might explain your lower end noise..

and yes set the timing first..

just plug up the wires to the correct plugs?..

1-1, 2-2, 3-3, 4-4..........
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Old 11-03-2009, 08:32 PM   #3
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and whats this sanding of the new bearings? please enlighten me.
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Old 11-03-2009, 08:45 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by TOYOTA 1 View Post
and whats this sanding of the new bearings? please enlighten me.

Okay i'll run you through it. I never pulled the crank out of the engine. The block never left my truck. The rods got mixed up before i took them to the machine shop..well only two did. It wasnt a problem for 3 of the cylinders. All the main bearings are fine. 2-3-4 CRod bearings are fine. number one bearings were too tight. on the front side fo the bearings they were rubbing and eating up the bearings. I had to sand the crank to get the bearing material off the crank. I bought a new set of bearings and the same thing happened. Basically, the rod was bent. The passenger side bolt that the lower bearing cap connects to was not seating right. I would have to press it pretty hard to get it up against the rod. I ended up working it back into position, and using up new bearings to try fit the cap and see how it was going. I also ended up having to sand a slight amount off of half the bearing surface on the cap to stop some wear that was occuring. Then sanded the crank to make the bearings fit better since the rod was causing them to fit a lil too snug. All in all, it took forever, i got it to where it spins with a wrench with the plugs in, with minor tough spots...

The plugs really go 1-2-3-4 clockwise on the distrib and 1-2-3-4 down the engine?

Isnt the firing order 1-3-4-2? Meaning

1 3
2 4 <Distrib


Edit - I think i misunderstood you..i need to know wwhat spots are correct for the plugs on the distrib

Last edited by 9o7yota; 11-03-2009 at 08:48 PM.
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Old 11-03-2009, 09:17 PM   #5
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TAKE THE #1 SPARK PLUG WIRE....PLUG IT INTO THE SPOT ON THE DISTRIBUTOR LABLED 1...DO THE SAME WITH THE REST..yes the firing is like 1-3-4-2...whenever you get the wires on there..it will fire like that.......

and you will probably have problems until you take the crank out..get it machined to the right spec..then get a new set of rod bearings..and also a new set of rods....and you sanded a bearing surface.........that's gonna make that bearing wear out faster..and score the crank...

wow..this is DEFINITELY a first for me..lmao..

i was told you're not even supposed to touch the bearing surface with your fingers...something about the oils or something..and scratching them ever so slighty..idk..lmao
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Old 11-03-2009, 09:24 PM   #6
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you can not mix up the rods. because as you know it wont work. and that rough spot that you feel is gonna get allot rougher when you start it.
i hate to be the one to tell you but, your temp fix is not going to last long.
if it does i will be very impressed!

and yes 1324 on the dizzy.
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Old 11-03-2009, 09:50 PM   #7
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lol, camo. you dont read very well. First, my distrib isnt labeled for which hole is which. Im just assuming that the top right node on the distrib is the spot for the number 3 piston..

As for sanding the bearing surfaces, i did NOT sand the bearing surfaces.

i sanded the CRANK itself to remove the bearing coating off the crank because when it wore the first new ROCK bearing it left stuff on the crank.

i also sanded the CAP. where the bearing SITS. half of it, on the passenger side. The rod was not reconditioned by my machine shop when i took them in. It was out of ROUND! tahts all im saying as for what my problems are. The bolt on the passenger side of the rod was not straight. It caused the lower bearing CAP to not seat correctly. It was causing the passenger side of the bearing to wear, thus implying the crank is rubbing against it right there. I sanded the CAP, to allow the bearing, once torqued, to compress MORE in that spot to allow the crank to pass by it and not rub against it. And as for not touching a bearing surface with your hand because of oils?...what do you think motor oil is when its in the engine? How did you apply your assembly lube to the bearing? Have you ever done your own bearings?

When i initially put it together, it seized up when i tried to start it. It moved freeely until the starter applied torque.

I found my issue, and thought i fixed it. I put everything back together and it seized again when i tried to start it.

Third time around i made sure i'd have enough free movement to where it would run freely. It runs.

No where in this thread did i say i sanded the bearings.


Basically, i MACHINED my own crank and rod cap, with emory cloth. Polished with FINE. I fit the crank to the bearing. not vice versa

Last edited by 9o7yota; 11-03-2009 at 09:52 PM.
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Old 11-03-2009, 10:32 PM   #8
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not meaning to double post... but is till have two questions.. well 1.5.

1 3
2 4


Assuming those are the wires going to the cylinders...is that correct? lol like the 7 o clock position on my distrib goes to cylinder number two correct?


And, on exhaust manifold, the lower part where it connects to the exhaust pipe. Theres two donut/o-ring like metalish gaskets...im sure someone knows what im talking about... why is exhaust coming out of them? Do they need time to heat and expand before they seal?
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Old 11-03-2009, 11:04 PM   #9
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we've already told you about the plug wire stuff LOL

if you're rod was out of round...then you need a new rod..and likely a new set of rods to be safe

yes i have done my own bearings..i have over 3,000 miles on my rebuilt 22r with no problems except for my carb..when you spread assembly lube on the bearings...you're fingers aren't touching the surfaces..........the lube is..DUH

and you said,,,and i QUOTE "I also ended up having to sand a slight amount off of half the bearing surface on the cap to stop some wear that was occuring.".....you said BEARING SURFACE on the cap...which implies that you sanded the bearing surface on the bearing on the cap......of course now we know what you mean..it's just a misunderstanding..

and you're motor won't last long at allll...what you really need to do..is have the crank turned..get new oversize bearings..and a new set of rods probably...

i have a header..so idk about the exhaust but yes im prettyyy sure they have to 'burn in' like a exhaust manifold gasket..

and if you're distributor isn't labled..wow big deal..if you want to be 100% positive..go to the local parts store and buy a new cap for a few bucks....

by sanding the crank it is now out of balance...however i myself don't think it would be enough to make a difference..however i'm no genious LOL

the thing you should have done in the first place...is get a new rod (if you're wantin to be cheap) or a new set....
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Old 11-03-2009, 11:08 PM   #10
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well i couldnt. i had jsut got it all back together and i didnt want to take it all back apart again. When i initially put it together, everything worked and turned great. It was only on the first try at starting it that it locked up.

I just started it a few mins ago. Smoke started to come out of the valve cover above the exhaust manifold..didnt smell like exhaust. maybe it was from the manifold? you said it has to be burnt in as well?

I just couldnt get the crank redone, nor the rods replaced because of timing and funds. i sorta have the money to do it, but its about to start snowing here tonight and my truck is in my driveway...right where my picture is at is where it sits right now.

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Old 11-03-2009, 11:12 PM   #11
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well it all comes down to getting the things done RIGHT...right now??..or a few months down the road..when you HAVE to buy a new crank, new bearings, new rods...possibly a new block due to a rod shooting out?..lmao

yea i get the situation you're in...believe me..i do..hahaha..but you just gotta make the sacrifice now..it'll be better in the long run...or if ya just don't care...to hell with it..run that beotch!!! it's a toyota..even if it has a hole through the block it will still run
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Old 11-03-2009, 11:18 PM   #12
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nah im confident that what i did to the crank and rod cap was just enough to make it work right. i spent two weeks seriously every day sitting under it trying to get it to seat correctly once it was torqued. i ended up using a torque sequence that helped pull the bent bolt in toward the crank lobe. The cap started to slide right onto it and seat nicely. Then i put brand new bearings in and it was good.. I noticed that when i was pushing the piston up off the crank lobe each time there were rough spots on the cyl wall probly from rough honing. I know some of the toughness in turning the crank is also from that spot. The bearings should be fine **I HOPE** We'll see.
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Old 11-04-2009, 12:19 AM   #13
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I'm going to run and hide.
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Old 11-04-2009, 12:33 AM   #14
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Although I question the productivity of this post, i'll throw a few thougts out to the OP:

Your combination of cap bolt not going in correctly, rub spot on bearings/crank and two spun bearings would indicate to most engine builders that the block is not straight, the threads for the cap bolt are bad, your crank is bent your bearings were not sized correctly and/or the rod on that position is bent or damaged.

That is not critisism, i'm just pointing out there are quite a few things that could be causing your issue and only a machine shop can check or fix most of them.

Did you plastigauge the new bearings?

If you continue to have problems spinning the bearing you need to think about having the block checked or replacing it. I'm sorry to hear you've had so much trouble, I know how frustrating that can be (read some of my brake threads!).

As for the plug orientation, check the FSM links posted in various placed here, that will hold the real answer for you.
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Old 11-04-2009, 07:33 AM   #15
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I never pulled the crank out of the engine. The block never left my truck ... All the main bearings are fine. 2-3-4 CRod bearings are fine. number one bearings were too tight. on the front side fo the bearings they were rubbing and eating up the bearings. I had to sand the crank to get the bearing material off the crank.
You never removed the crank from the block nor the block from the vehicle, so how exactly did you determine that the main journals were fine without removing the main bearing caps?...

There's NO WAY you can properly measure main journals without removing the crank, let alone without removing the main caps: Even if the block was magically upside down in your truck and you took the caps off, all you could do would be an oil clearance check w/ plastigage forget about checking out of round or taper.

Did you seriously sand your conrod journals? By hand? With sandpaper and everything? Wow.

You need to pull the motor, disassemble the whole thing, get a new crank or at least get your current crank re-ground, get a line bore done, get new conrods or have them rebored if possible (and get the little ends rebushed while you're at it), get everything measured to determine the correct main AND rod bearing sizes.

Holy eff...

Last edited by mcm375; 11-04-2009 at 08:44 AM.
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Old 11-04-2009, 08:00 AM   #16
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I tried to think of dumber things someone could do to an engine other than sanding the crank but the best I can come up with is draining the oil and using water.

Take that poor thing to a machine shop before it starts puking engine parts!
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