the4x4runner

I have searched and read lots of thread about the rear main seal. i think i have a good idea of the procedure but had a few last minute qeustions.
My 86 4runner 22R M/T doesnt only have an oil leak, it pours the oil out, and it all comes from the area between the engine and the transmission which lead me to believe its the seal.

Today i noticed oil was also coming out of the clutch actuator rubber boot. i didnt not see it coming out anywhere else than the bottom of the engine-transmission interface

My questions are...
do i need to drain the transfer case and transmission fluids to romove the transmission?
do i need to prepare the seal, or install it right out of the box.
would this cause rough idling and stalling?
tips for getting to the bolts on the top of the tranny.

Im planning on starting tomarrow and even tuesday if i need the time, i think the summer heat is going to be a big obstacle, not to mention removing everything. im am renting a transmission jack as i heard that is a huge help, im probable doing it alone, so ill need all the help i can get.

spirtlanimilbus

you may want to use an emery cloth to clean up the crank surface. ive had good luch with sleeve n' seal on my crank also. its basicly a 30 dollar piece of tin that you very carefully slide over the crank surface to keep the seal from getting messed up by a rough crank surface. while your in there if you havent already you might as well do the clutch too....

Tacoma Dude

You won't need to train any fluids - you may want to consider draining the oil after you're done if any parts of the seal are missing.
As for the bolts on the top - a set of wheel chocks, some extensions and wobblers, and someone who won't mind laying on top of the engine for a bit.

the4x4runner

it nevar fails. we go weeks without rain.
the day i get under my truck to take out the tranny, a thunderstorm starts up and makes me stop, mainly the lightning.
oh well, i got most of the bolts losened so tomarrow its just taking them out, lowering the tranny and doing my work.
I am takeing lots o pictures. i couldnt find a write up about removing a transmission so i think ill make one myself. its not too hard ...yet. i am excited to get out there and start back up.

kyle_22r

welcome to my world! the two hardest things about pulling the tranny are the upper bellhousing bolts, and re-stabbing it back in. i've found that with your usual toyota tranny, it won't slide in all the way on its own for some reason and i usually have to get it close enough to install a couple bellhousing bolts and suck the tranny and the engine together that way.

also, i'd highly recommend replacing the clutch while you're in there. odds are it's soaked in oil. if you must absolutely go without replacing it, hose it down really good with brake cleaner.

the4x4runner

holy crap that was the hardsest thing i have ever done, i am So glad i am done with it. i havent started it back up, but ill take it to the mechanice if it leaks again, PAIN IN THE BUTT. but its over with and i can say that i have done it.
I took some pictures with the intent to take them every step of the way, but stopped about half way when it started get tough.
I can definitly see why it was leaking, there was hardly a seal left, just the metal ring with fragments of rubber here and there, im sure thats why it was leaking. the good part was i had two buddies helping me, i couldnt have done it without them.
Getting it back in was hard, but it was the the clutch plate wasnt aligned and needed the 2 doller alignment tool, after that we sliped it in close enough and screwed it close

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Sent you a PM, but now I see your done.
Im in Ttown.

maxpower_hd

Glad to see you got it fixed. I ended up making an alignment tool out of a broom handle with my bench grinder. I couldn't find one at any of the local parts stores.

I also used a sleeve-n-seal from engnbldr.com and it worked great.

the4x4runner

i thought about the sleeve n seal, but the crank lookde great and the seal was tight aroung it. it probably wount of hurt to put it on anyways.

navyredneck

4x4runner,

You said the seal was almost completely gone... How much oil were you leaking? I've got the same problem. I've never seen spots on the driveway but I constantly see oil on my bellhousing. I used engine degreaser a week ago and it was back within a few days. I'm losing 1.5 qts per 3000 miles. Just wondering how far gone my rear main seal actually is...

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

22REs are notorious for leaking in several places...front seal, crank seal, oil pan and the rear seal. Easy way to find out exactly where is to clean the engine and then spray it with foot spray, crank it up, drive around the block and find the streaks to the source.

the4x4runner

foot spray, ill try that.
Fixing the seal really helped, but since i had to take the oil pan off, i must have not properly sealed it back cause its still leaking. ill be getting an oil pan seal, i dont think there was one on it before , just lots of silicone. the leaking is ALOT less than before , but just a few drops. i have some engine degreaser, but since i live in apartment, a hose is not readily avaliable.
Im just glad its drivable now.
It seems to take a few minutes before it can run at the idle speed without stalling, i tried to adjust the idle speed with the idle screw, but that causes it to idle at high RPMs when it gets going well.
How hard is it to test the compression of the cyclinders? i think that might be another reason for the rough idle, seems like each cyclinder gives different amounts of power.