Rear main seal
#1
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From: Little Rock, Arkansas
Rear main seal
I just got the transmission pulled and purchased a marlin crawler clutch kit and am now trying to convince my father that the rms needs to be replaced. He keeps saying no, but im thinking otherwise (everything i have read says to do it, but gives no detailed write up of how). How involved is the process of replacing the seal and is there a gasket behind the rear main seal retainer (alluminum peice that the seal is in)? I am getting this done by the weekend
#2
you can simply pop out the rubber seal and slide a new one in but be careful not to damage the aluminum retainer...i'd thread a screw or two into it and use those to pull it out, then use vasoline or oil treatment to lube up the new seal before installing
#4
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Piece of cake! Even if it was involved, geez...the seal isn't expensive, but the job of tearing everything apart to get to it is a royal pain. AND, if you're paying someone else to do it, very expensive. It only makes sense to replace it while you're there. Trying to skip a step to save on a little labor and a minor cost, considering the majority of the cost is already done for the clutch, doesn't make sense.
Look at it this way. If it's the original seal, it's not going to last as long as your brand new clutch. After so long, they do get brittle and start to leak. This way, you a have brand new seal along with your new clutch and WILL NOT have to do this tear down again prematurely.
BTW, a gentle persuasion with a screw driver will work, too. I took an old steel one and bent the flat head into a curve. Works beautifully. Also, unless it is actually leaking, you don't need to mess with the retainer at all.
Look at it this way. If it's the original seal, it's not going to last as long as your brand new clutch. After so long, they do get brittle and start to leak. This way, you a have brand new seal along with your new clutch and WILL NOT have to do this tear down again prematurely.
BTW, a gentle persuasion with a screw driver will work, too. I took an old steel one and bent the flat head into a curve. Works beautifully. Also, unless it is actually leaking, you don't need to mess with the retainer at all.
#5
Like thook said, if your retainer isn't leaking you can just replace the seal. It takes like 30 seconds. Here is the proper tool to do it, $6.99 at Sears:
Seal Puller
You just push one of the ends into the lip of the seal (you might have to tap it with a small hammer) and pop the old seal out. Then just tap the new one in (trying to keep it straight and even.. Just take your time).
BTW - When I did the clutch on my 4Runner the RMS was bone try so I decided to leave well enough alone. 2 weeks later it started leaking. I always replace them now.
Seal Puller
You just push one of the ends into the lip of the seal (you might have to tap it with a small hammer) and pop the old seal out. Then just tap the new one in (trying to keep it straight and even.. Just take your time).
BTW - When I did the clutch on my 4Runner the RMS was bone try so I decided to leave well enough alone. 2 weeks later it started leaking. I always replace them now.
#7
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From: Little Rock, Arkansas
he thought it was a lot more involved than it really is. But yotatech to the rescue, he went out today and bought the seal that i needed and im putting it in tonight. I figured it would be worth my time, since pulling that stupid transmission was not an easy job
. Anyways, thanks for the imput guys and lets just hope that everything goes back together smoothly.
. Anyways, thanks for the imput guys and lets just hope that everything goes back together smoothly.
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