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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Rear locker or IFS lift?

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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 01:33 PM
  #21  
boriswebs's Avatar
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From: Illinois
Locker
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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 04:12 PM
  #22  
chimmike's Avatar
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From: SRQ, FL
Originally Posted by richeyma
With a 94 IFS, you have torsion bars that can be adjusted to compensate the height difference between the front and the rear. It's a simple wrench turn, but if you've never adjusted them (or it's been several years), you might break the existing bolts (due to rust) and have to replace them. You can get a set of replacement bolts from any Toyota shop. It'll make the ride a little stiffer, but I did it on mine to compensate for new rear springs and it's worked fine. I also replaced the factory torsion bars with a set of aftermarket ones (Sway-A-Way). At the time I paid about $100 for the set. They're a bit bigger/sturdier and will give you a decent height increase in the front. If you crank too much you'll get a stiff ride and limit your downward travel (although I haven't noticed anything significant--I don't do any rock crawling :>)
that's good useful info, thanks!

Looks like after I order the winch here shortly, a rear locker is in order. Then the sway a way's and new shocks all around. That should complete it after an aussie front locker
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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 04:45 PM
  #23  
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From: Longmont, CO
Locker. IMHO, FRONT makes more difference on an IFS truck, because you are MUCH more likely to lift a front wheel than a rear, but it does have significant downside (can't turn). Yes, you can put a Toyota elocker in your rear axle with minor housing modifications.

Skip the winch, buy some 33x10.50's instead.

I'm 'wheeling some pretty tough trails with that setup and NO lift. I would be wary of the bigger Tbars. 4x4Lamm has them, otherwise our trucks are pretty much the same. Mine flexes (somewhat) - his rolls. I actually wish I could find some LOWER spring rate tbars...
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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 06:08 PM
  #24  
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From: Midlothian, VA
Another locker vote definitely, rear first. If you do rocks (and I speak from experience) make sure you have good skids if you get a locker because it will push you into wilder stuff than you ever thought your truck was capable of. I never hit the bottom of my truck on a rock before the locker, now my skids are beat to hell (it could be because I'm able to do harder trails now ). Also, I'm the same set up as you're talking about.. lifted enough in the back to fix the sag and a slight t-bar crank in the front. There's pics and stuff in the link in my sig.. Also, I went with the Aussie.. Best $260 I have spent on the truck .
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 03:36 AM
  #25  
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From: SRQ, FL
I think I'm going to do a locker up front first, due to the muddy ditches we have around here and stuff....it'll pull me up the steep muddy banks instead of the rear pushing. Of course the rear will be following the front shortly

The bumper and winch are necessary here because it's unbelieveably easy to get stuck in mud here in FL. Last time out I had to help pull a nicely modded H3 out of some hellish mud (that I made it through earlier by flooring it! LOL) and a couple wranglers from deep pits.
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 03:43 AM
  #26  
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From: Longmont Colorado
If your going with a front locker i would say get an elocker.Its cheaper then arb,a factory toyota part, and selectable. I have one and im going to throw it in the front with a lunchbox rear when i do the gears.

I went lift first and i can say that it helped but not enough. My stock shocks were limiting everything and if i would have got some cheap shocks that were longer i would have been fine. I have about 5 maybe 6inches of lift now and running 36's is a pain. It does ok but gears and lockers should have come first. Theres stock 4runners with lockers going farther then i am with no problems. If you want to be a show off or want bot selectable lockers do up 2 elockers. you can get em for about 500 and can build the relays to control them with parts from a local parts store. Thats what i was going to do but cheaped out on that after i lifted my runner and picked up my new summer car.
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 05:37 AM
  #27  
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From: SRQ, FL
I'm likely just going to get an aussie locker for the front.
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 05:43 PM
  #28  
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From: Longmont, CO
Originally Posted by vwfastg60
If your going with a front locker i would say get an elocker.Its cheaper then arb,a factory toyota part, and selectable. I have one and im going to throw it in the front with a lunchbox rear when i do the gears.
Ummm - be sure to invite me over when you try and install an elocker on a IFS truck.... I think you might have some fitment issues. (It'll work in your truck with the SFA, but not in his with the IFS)

vwfastg60 - you gonna be able to make the meet and greet tomorrow night? (I posted up in the "Events" section)
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 06:01 PM
  #29  
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From: Tampa, Florida
i have honestly only lifted a front tire 2 or 3 times, to me, it always seems as if my rear tires come off the ground, oh well, another vote for a REAR locker
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 12:18 PM
  #30  
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From: The Big Wonderful
Rear Locker!!! Selectable Rear Locker if you drive your runner on a paved road long distances. I say rear because of a couple of reasons. 1) As you are traveling up a hill, the rear of your truck has the most traction due to the center of gravity and the angle of incline. 2) The IFS on your truck can only take so much torque before the CV joints break down. Having a lift kit installed, as it looks as though you have in the mail, will only compound the issue. The sharper the angle of the CV joints are placed in, either due to lift or turning will destroy them. CVs are the weakest at sharp angles! Then when you add the locker, now constant torque is applied, increasing your likely hood of failure. I would say go with a rear locker for now... if you think you need additional traction, i would invest in a selectable locker up front.

Last edited by flyfishexpert; Jan 24, 2007 at 03:15 PM.
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