Rear Diff Rebuild Questions.
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Rear Diff Rebuild Questions.
I'm going to try to do this this weekend. I'm putting some 5.29's in with a master install kit. I'm sure I'm capable of this. First off, if there is any tips I may not have encountered in my research of this job please let me know.
Here is my question after reading through the service manual a couple of times. There are a couple times where bearing preload must be measured and adjusted. When measuring the preload for say the pinion, is that the amount of torque it takes to turn the pinion before the gears start to interact or is it the amount of torque required to turn the whole assembly?
Also, once I check the gear contact pattern, is it true that if it must be adjusted I have to press the bearings off, change the spacer and repress the bearing back on? Can this be done fairly easily without damaging the bearing? I'm going to be improvising a press most likely. I will be using a tool for removal that Harbor Freight carries. It's a cool little puller but it won't help me put it back on.
Thanks y'all. Any advise will be very helpful.
By the way, I have an aussie installed already and I don't plan on removing that if I don't have to.
Here is my question after reading through the service manual a couple of times. There are a couple times where bearing preload must be measured and adjusted. When measuring the preload for say the pinion, is that the amount of torque it takes to turn the pinion before the gears start to interact or is it the amount of torque required to turn the whole assembly?
Also, once I check the gear contact pattern, is it true that if it must be adjusted I have to press the bearings off, change the spacer and repress the bearing back on? Can this be done fairly easily without damaging the bearing? I'm going to be improvising a press most likely. I will be using a tool for removal that Harbor Freight carries. It's a cool little puller but it won't help me put it back on.
Thanks y'all. Any advise will be very helpful.
By the way, I have an aussie installed already and I don't plan on removing that if I don't have to.
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Sounds like you've got it pretty much figured out, but here's a few tips you're seeking..
There is a trick about using the outer casing from the old bearing as a dummy while you fine tune the contact, then when it's set, you just press it on one time and be done. Ian did this a few times on Xtreme 4x4.
You will, kinda. In order to replace the ring and pinion, the carrier has to come off. In other words your old ring gear is bolted to the aussie so you'll have to take it out to change them out then put it back in.
EDIT: ^He posted while I was typing, that's a good article too.
By the way, I have an aussie installed already and I don't plan on removing that if I don't have to.
EDIT: ^He posted while I was typing, that's a good article too.
Last edited by CanTheWhales; 07-11-2008 at 08:17 AM. Reason: took too long
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axekick: Zuk is the god of gear installs, listen to him www.gearinstalls.com is his page.
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I've spent quite a few hours looking at your previos builds. I need to get this done this weekend. I may or may not, but it will be just like yours when I'm done. Your website is very informative and much apreciated, Zuk.
I can't find a small enough torque wrench anywhere so I am going to buy a spring scale and use a 10 inch rod to measure my pinion bearing preload.
I also don't have a press in my garage so I'm either going to have to break down and buy one or improvise a little. If that doesn't work I think I can find someone with a press I can borrow. Other than that, I think this will be an enjoyable an satisfying experience.
It's very nice to know that I canget some help if I run into problems.
Thanks y'all!
I can't find a small enough torque wrench anywhere so I am going to buy a spring scale and use a 10 inch rod to measure my pinion bearing preload.
I also don't have a press in my garage so I'm either going to have to break down and buy one or improvise a little. If that doesn't work I think I can find someone with a press I can borrow. Other than that, I think this will be an enjoyable an satisfying experience.
It's very nice to know that I canget some help if I run into problems.
Thanks y'all!
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Well, I'm sad to discover that I've bought low quality gears. They're Genuine Gear. I don't do any hard core wheelin, but I drive on the highway all the time. Hopefully if I'm careful with my setup and get everything just like it's supposed to be I won't have any trouble with these things for a while. I'll start the build early in the morning. I have gotten my dial indicator and magnetic base and on my way home I'm going to go by the head shop and get a spring scale. That should cover my measuring devices. Now if I can come up with some innovative tools like Zuk has done as I go I should be able to handle this.
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Well, I'm sad to discover that I've bought low quality gears. They're Genuine Gear. I don't do any hard core wheelin, but I drive on the highway all the time. Hopefully if I'm careful with my setup and get everything just like it's supposed to be I won't have any trouble with these things for a while. I'll start the build early in the morning. I have gotten my dial indicator and magnetic base and on my way home I'm going to go by the head shop and get a spring scale. That should cover my measuring devices. Now if I can come up with some innovative tools like Zuk has done as I go I should be able to handle this.
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That is excellent information. I will definitely do that. I'm pretty sure it's a genuine gear. I compared it to the two genuine gears you have on your site. I bought it from 4 wheel parts, so at least they gave me a lifetime warranty. If I ever have to use the warranty I'll get a better replacement. Hopefully it will hold up like the one you put in the front of that buggy.
I'm off to my folk's garage to get started. I'll talk to you guy in a while.
I'm off to my folk's garage to get started. I'll talk to you guy in a while.
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I didn't even know all this was going on. I had .033" of runout, assuming runout is the side to side movement of the carrier. I had .051" of backlash. Way out! This is my own fault. The carrier bolts were not tight enough from when I installed the locker. I didn't use any threadlocker. Won't happen again. Now I am at a sticking point because I don't know how I'm going to perss the bearings on and off. I might have to get into the savings a little and spring for a little harbor freight shop press. I'm hoping to find one to use somewhere though.
#19
I didn't even know all this was going on. I had .033" of runout, assuming runout is the side to side movement of the carrier. I had .051" of backlash. Way out! This is my own fault. The carrier bolts were not tight enough from when I installed the locker. I didn't use any threadlocker. Won't happen again. Now I am at a sticking point because I don't know how I'm going to perss the bearings on and off. I might have to get into the savings a little and spring for a little harbor freight shop press. I'm hoping to find one to use somewhere though.
#20
I didn't even know all this was going on. I had .033" of runout, assuming runout is the side to side movement of the carrier. I had .051" of backlash. Way out! This is my own fault. The carrier bolts were not tight enough from when I installed the locker. I didn't use any threadlocker. Won't happen again. Now I am at a sticking point because I don't know how I'm going to perss the bearings on and off. I might have to get into the savings a little and spring for a little harbor freight shop press. I'm hoping to find one to use somewhere though.