Rear diff gasket replacement.
#2
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Little more involved
Maybe you don`t want to mess with it.
To keep it simple !!
Remove the rear axles Slide hammer works nice
Disconnect the driveshaft
Then the differential slides out.
Is your vent blocked causing gear oil to be pushed out when it gets hot??
Maybe you don`t want to mess with it.
To keep it simple !!
Remove the rear axles Slide hammer works nice
Disconnect the driveshaft
Then the differential slides out.
Is your vent blocked causing gear oil to be pushed out when it gets hot??
#3
make sure it's leaking between the diff cover and housing, not from the pinion seal. there are youtube videos showing how to remove the rear 3rd member - wyoming described the basics of removing the 3rd. use RTV silicone or Toyota FIPG to reseal the diff, not a paper gasket.
#4
Lol. You are right. I don't want to mess with it but have no choice. Im not gonna pay someone 1/3 what the truck is worth to do it. I will check the vent for blockage. The bottom of the gasket seem to have blown out. Thanks for you input!!
#5
vent can be pulled with a 12mm or something like that too.
you can use RTV or other automotive squeeze type gasket sealant
in addition to wyoming9's instructions:
-chock your front wheels (e brake only works on rear wheels)
-use jack stands under your rear axle housing
-remove rear wheels
-undo e-brake cables at the brake backing plate
-undo the rear brake hydraulic lines at the backing plate
-undo the 4 nuts on each rear axle
-pull them out all the way, don't be lazy and only pull them out a few inches, could way to need to place a rear axle seal down the road
-remove rear d/s
-undo the 10-12 nuts on the rear third member. be careful as you pull the third out, it weights about 50 lbs or so, they can need some prying and pursuation and can come out easy after fighting them for a little bit and surprise you.
-apply your selected sealant/gasket.
you can find the procedure in this link:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...mobile-275285/
the rear axle removeable procedure is pretty much the same procedure for 35+ years of toyota trucks
you can use RTV or other automotive squeeze type gasket sealant
in addition to wyoming9's instructions:
-chock your front wheels (e brake only works on rear wheels)
-use jack stands under your rear axle housing
-remove rear wheels
-undo e-brake cables at the brake backing plate
-undo the rear brake hydraulic lines at the backing plate
-undo the 4 nuts on each rear axle
-pull them out all the way, don't be lazy and only pull them out a few inches, could way to need to place a rear axle seal down the road
-remove rear d/s
-undo the 10-12 nuts on the rear third member. be careful as you pull the third out, it weights about 50 lbs or so, they can need some prying and pursuation and can come out easy after fighting them for a little bit and surprise you.
-apply your selected sealant/gasket.
you can find the procedure in this link:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...mobile-275285/
the rear axle removeable procedure is pretty much the same procedure for 35+ years of toyota trucks
#7
For what it's worth I had leak on my gasket on my 95. After drying everything off I found it was my pinion seal and it was spraying everywhere and dripping onto the gasket.. Check to see if the gear oil is being sprayed or really leaking from the diff gasket
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#8
I think its leaking in both places. Did you change the pinion seal yourself?
#9
Yeah I ended up finding a great video on it and it took me about a couple hours.. afterwards I tried the gasket off and found that the pinion seal was the only place that was leaking... it wasn't too bad. Now I've got to do the companion seal on the other end, transfer case
Last edited by voiddweller; Apr 14, 2015 at 10:57 AM.
#10
Yeah I ended up finding a great video on it and it took me about a couple hours.. afterwards I tried the gasket off and found that the pinion seal was the only place that was leaking... it wasn't too bad. Now I've got to do the companion seal on the other end, transfer case
#11
#12
P/u differential
Hello all, I'm sorry Doug, I'm not trying to hijack your post but I'm brand new to the forums and cannot find a thread on this anywhere. Can someone please link me to a walk through of how to replace a rear differential on a 93 p/u. Mine has been making noise for a while and I've been told by a few shops that it has to be replace but I do not feel like paying the $2000 for a shop to do it. I know most of it is just removing the axel shafts and unbolting the diff but I was told you have to set the lash in the gears and I have no idea how to do that or what else you have to do in particular. Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance
#13
The first thing I would suggest is to go here www.gearinstalls.com and spend a couple of hours some evening reading. That will give you a much better idea of how these things are put together and what's involved in servicing them. Then send an email off to Zuk (the owner of that website) and tell him your symptoms and see what he thinks.
As far as fixing it, the cheapest way would probably be to find a replacement 3rd member with the same ratio gears at a salvage yard and just swap it in. That doesn't require any precision set up or adjustment, and you and a buddy could do it in your driveway in an afternoon. Downside is you don't know the quality of the replacement unit you're getting, so it could be a 100,000 mile fix or a 10 mile fix. 2nd cheapest would probably be to pull it out, ship it to Zuk for rehab, and reinstall it when it gets back. That will definitely be a quality job and you won't ever have to worry about it again. Downside is your truck is down for a few weeks.
I wouldn't recommend actually dismantling and rebuilding the differential as a "do-it-yourself" project for a novice. The gear setup is critical, and takes special equipment and knowledge, or early failure is pretty much guaranteed.
As far as fixing it, the cheapest way would probably be to find a replacement 3rd member with the same ratio gears at a salvage yard and just swap it in. That doesn't require any precision set up or adjustment, and you and a buddy could do it in your driveway in an afternoon. Downside is you don't know the quality of the replacement unit you're getting, so it could be a 100,000 mile fix or a 10 mile fix. 2nd cheapest would probably be to pull it out, ship it to Zuk for rehab, and reinstall it when it gets back. That will definitely be a quality job and you won't ever have to worry about it again. Downside is your truck is down for a few weeks.
I wouldn't recommend actually dismantling and rebuilding the differential as a "do-it-yourself" project for a novice. The gear setup is critical, and takes special equipment and knowledge, or early failure is pretty much guaranteed.
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