yota671

Hey guys i need some input 92 yota 4x

So here it goes my rear wheels gets hot as if the shoes are sticking to the drums
like litterly sticking i cant even rotate the wheels tried adjusting the star wheel all
The way in install the drum it wil spin freely but when i turn on the truck put it on
first it will spin freely but as i hit the brakes while its spinning on nuetral it wil freeze
up i cant even rotate the wheels by hand rear end is in the air new shoes and cylinder
LSPV deleted can i cap off rear line if i can figure out the problem HELP HELP HELP

THANKS

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Have you checked that the bell cranks are not seized in the brackets

You should really pull the drums to see what is going on in there.

yota671

Bell cranks ? I did pull the drums off everything looks fine

yota671

Bump anyone?

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

Might be a long shot, but the flexible rubber hose from frame to rear end could be getting old and failing. If a chunk of rubber came loose it could act as a one way valve.

Looks like you might have just replaced your rear brakes, did this problem happen right when you replaced them? If so, something could just not be settled in right. The pads look really thick, but you mentioned you can adjust them down enough to spin the drums fine so shouldn't be the problem.

Don't really have a whole lot of experience with rear brake problems, can't really think of anything else.

coryc85

Does your parking brake work? You might be able to isolate it to either the hydraulics or the brake HW to see if you've got something installed wrong. Back off the adjusters, put the drum on, pull the parking brake. There is a spec in the FSM, you are supposed to get like 7 clicks or something like that, might have to pull and release several times. See if you can get the parking brake to hold and then release it. If the parking brake works without ever touching the brake pedal, then suspect hydraulics. Those wheel cylinders look new as do the shoes and the rest of the HW.

yota671

thanks for the reply havent checked in on the site been busy but maybe i will look into that rubber
Hose and run a full check on the line possibly even shoot the air compressor through the front and see
if anything wants to come out.....yes i have replaced the shoes and yes i can adjust them down put the drums
on and they spin freely but as soon as i turn on the truck press the brakes both right n left locks up and i wont
be able to spin by hand THANKS FOR THE INPUT WILL LOOK INTO IT

Yes parking brakes works cylinder n shoes are new but springs n all was reused well im gona try n shoot the lines with the compressor and
see if somethings blocking BTW when i was doin my rear brakes i open both bleeder valves had someone pump the brakes and the RP was
seaping out more than the RD the RD valve was sort of a dripping fluid would u suspect that would be the problem i have a T fitting LSPV deleted

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

When you bleed the brakes, the process is basically have the system sealed, press down on the brake to pressurize it, then release at the location your bleeding. Seal up, lift pedal and repeat till good solid fluid comes out. Do this at each brake and the system is generally air free. After the whole process, without the engine running, you pump the brakes up then press and hold. Pedal should be stiff and not seep down or feel spongy (air).

I like the parking brake idea, never thought of that, but will have to add it to the little tricks list on these trucks =).

yota671

I have done this when i changed out all the brake system such as rotors caliper front brakes rear shoes n wheel cylinders started
from RP,RD,FP,FD my pedal is stiff even though i capped the rears off i still have a stiff pedal

flg8r22

iTrader: (1)

I'm with Wyoming. The bell cranks that go into the backing plate for the drum get caked with crap over the years. Did you pull the boots off? I just did my rears on my 80 and they were the worst brakes I've ever seen. I replaced what I could with quality parts and cleaned and lubed everything else

https://goo.gl/images/d2jj8f

akwheeler

If one push on the brake pedal causes both rears to lock up and stay locked it sounds like hydraulic pressure may not be dropping off when you release the pedal. This could also be from deep grooves where the brake shoes sit on the backing plate, but it's not likely since both sides are staying locked. I have also seen times when the parking brake was adjusted too tight (or sticking slightly)before a brake job and after the brake job the adjusters would over-adjust, but this comes into play after a few uses and it will progressively get tighter. So, what I would do is duplicate the problem and then crack a bleeder loose and see if the pressure loss allows the wheels to turn free. if not loosen up the parking brake cable and tap on the bell crank ( the pivot where the cable attaches at the backing plate). If the bell cranks are very stiff and only move when you tap on them that may be your issue. Good luck!

yota671

Yes i pulled everything off cleaned them up greased the cranks and cap

yota671

yes one push on the brakes will lock up the rears i did not touch the hand brakes never adjusted it the only thing i did was
replace shoes n wheel cylinders i adjusted the bell cranks down and i can play with it back and forth i never touched the hand brake lines
just watever was in the drums

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

I showed my dad this thread and he agreed with me on the rubber flexable hose acting like a one way valve. As stated above, create the lockup problem, and crack the bleeder loose. If it releases, it's still under pressure, if it stays locked, then I'm not sure, maybe something hanging up mechanically (parking brake etc).

yota671

Thanks for the info i will look into that and i will probably shoot the lines with the compressor just hope thats my problem
if it still occurs i will block it off if i have no choice will look into it asap thanks

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

My dad mentioned the hose is pretty inexpensive, might just be simple enough to just replace it to rule it out. Air probably won't act the same as fluid, that's like trying to run a fork truck lift mast with air pressure instead of hydraulic oil to test for a leak (I've done it before, junk cylinder, and it was very uncontrollable lol).

akwheeler

If you crack open a bleeder and confirm it is pressure related just duplicate the problem again and move up the line. crack the tube loose that connects to the hose on the body side. if the brakes are still locked your issue is in the hose, brake the end loose on the axle to verify.

akwheeler

did you ever get this sorted out?