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Re-Gearing Costs

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Old 04-30-2006, 02:47 PM
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Re-Gearing Costs

Hey everyone, I am wanting to put some bigger tires on my truck 33x10.5s and want to know how much the going rate to get 4.88's to balence out the power again? Thanks
Old 04-30-2006, 02:50 PM
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I just paid 1,600 for the front and rea with Yukon 4.88's.It was definately worth it.
Old 04-30-2006, 03:04 PM
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Sorry if I'm hijacking the thread, but is it possible to just replace the 3rds for the gearing?
Old 04-30-2006, 03:07 PM
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I paid $300 labor for front and rear, but I had 4.88s and ARBs installed at the same time...so the total for regearing and lockers was under $2K.


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Old 04-30-2006, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by waskillywabbit
I paid $300 labor for front and rear, but I had 4.88s and ARBs installed at the same time...so the total for regearing and lockers was under $2K.

holy ˟˟˟˟˟ i wasnt expecting that much! i guess im gonna have to re-think putting 33's on i guess.
Old 04-30-2006, 03:22 PM
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You can pull the 3rd members and take them in and it'll be cheaper.
Old 04-30-2006, 04:48 PM
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My gears only cost me $550 for front and rear 4.88, but its for a Tacoma, but i dont understand why it would be so much more expensive.
Old 04-30-2006, 05:33 PM
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$1600 seems REALLY high for just gears. I just did 4.88's + ARB's for about $2000 (when you consider the lockers and compressor run ~$1400...) Install was $200/axle since I took the 3rds out of the truck and to the guy's shop. The only parts you need to order are gears (ring/pinion sets) and master install kits.

If you're gonna be in there anyways, you should do lockers too - the labor to install them is the same as to do the gears, so it's "free" if you do it now - another labor charge later if you decide to do it.
Old 04-30-2006, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by tc
$1600 seems REALLY high for just gears. I just did 4.88's + ARB's for about $2000 (when you consider the lockers and compressor run ~$1400...) Install was $200/axle since I took the 3rds out of the truck and to the guy's shop. The only parts you need to order are gears (ring/pinion sets) and master install kits.

If you're gonna be in there anyways, you should do lockers too - the labor to install them is the same as to do the gears, so it's "free" if you do it now - another labor charge later if you decide to do it.
What excatly do i gain with lockers? sorry i am a bit of a newbie. I dont plan on wheeling to much and if i do its not going to be anything to extreme. thanks
Old 04-30-2006, 06:21 PM
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Lockers make the two wheels on the axle turn the same speed, so the wheel with traction always has power. Some lockers accomodate the need for the wheels to turn different speeds, say turning a corner on pavement. If you're NEVER going to wheel, they won't do much for you. If you ever do get off road and have a wheel in the air or in the mud, you'll wish you had one!
Old 04-30-2006, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by tc
Lockers make the two wheels on the axle turn the same speed, so the wheel with traction always has power. Some lockers accomodate the need for the wheels to turn different speeds, say turning a corner on pavement. If you're NEVER going to wheel, they won't do much for you. If you ever do get off road and have a wheel in the air or in the mud, you'll wish you had one!
so they wouldnt make a noticable difference on logging roads or just basic offroading? Do you need them for both front an rear then? thanks alot

Last edited by daveylo; 04-30-2006 at 06:39 PM.
Old 04-30-2006, 06:41 PM
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there were some times that I wish I had a locker! and Im not really a hardcore wheeler. I only have a stock truck for now so I cant get to extreme yet. but I have seen gear sets for around $500 but thats not on my "to modify" list just yet.
Old 04-30-2006, 10:49 PM
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Do you have a manual? That would be a plus. I ran a '90 for 10 years with stock gears and 33x12.50s. Sure it felt under-powered, but it did me just fine for what I used it for. I say put on your 33"s (if you can clear them, ie. lift), see how you like it, and then regear in the future if you find it necessary.
Lockers are awesome if you go wheeling. In an open diff, the power tranfers to the tire with the least traction. That might be the one off the ground, or the one spinning in the mud. With a locker, the power is 50/50 split (essentially).
Old 04-30-2006, 10:57 PM
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Lockers would be a good idea for anybody, especially if you get selectables.
Old 05-02-2006, 03:37 PM
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Where can you purchase 4.88 gears from?
Old 05-02-2006, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by daveylo
Where can you purchase 4.88 gears from?
a wrecked auto 2nd gen 4runner
Old 05-02-2006, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by curly_c
a wrecked auto 2nd gen 4runner
The 4runner i have coming is a 1991 Hilux Surf from japan...so thats second gen right? would it come stock with 4.88's?
Old 05-02-2006, 07:04 PM
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Yes, 87-96 is 2nd gen.
Old 05-03-2006, 03:51 AM
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Originally Posted by JEDI87
I just paid 1,600 for the front and rea with Yukon 4.88's.It was definately worth it.
holy crap! did they at least use vaseline on you before taking your money? i paid $501 shipped for 4.56 Yukons and (2) Master Install Kits. I then took the front diff and rear third (both spares) to the installer and got everything done for $300 total. i then put them in the rig and sold off the originals. i even made money on the spares that i had left. i had about $750 total in the regear. at the same time, i spent another $650 and put an ARB locker in the front. i already had an ARB locker in the rear.



Originally Posted by 91_4x4runner
Yes, 87-96 is 2nd gen.
uhhh, no. 1985 was the first hilux surf / 4runner. the body style changed to the "2nd gen" in 1990 (first year for 2nd gen). then again to the 3rd gens in 1996. 4th gens started in 2003.
Old 05-03-2006, 04:25 AM
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I did 5.29s and a Detroit Truetrac (rear) for $1200. That's drop off the truck price.


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