Rain + Snorkel = ?
#2
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well its not like the snorkel sucks in all the water. Most snorkels are horizontal so there is minimum water getting in, plus any water that should get it probley wont make it past the filter or airbox setup.
#4
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If it is one of those torrential west coast down pours you can always flip the intack head around and face it backwards... That's a trick they used to use on the air intakes on steamships so water from waves would'nt drown the boiler room, they could turn some of them to face away from prevailing wind or "running sea" direction.
#6
I wouldn't worry about it at all, if anything, it will clean out the combustion chambers of any carbon build-up. It will also allow you to go heavier on the throttle without pinging (well, actually the water would have to be atomized).
wikipedia on "water injection"
In order to drown the engine, it would have to raining so hard that you would be totally unable to see out the windshield. What I'm getting at, is that the amount of water actually getting in to the engine is minute compared to the volume of air and should not be of concern.
wikipedia on "water injection"
In order to drown the engine, it would have to raining so hard that you would be totally unable to see out the windshield. What I'm getting at, is that the amount of water actually getting in to the engine is minute compared to the volume of air and should not be of concern.
Last edited by Matt16; 10-06-2008 at 10:42 PM.
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#9
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cough..cough..cough..huh?..oh sorry.uhm i was thinking bout this fact i heard on the teevee one time where they said it actually rains more in New York per year than seattle . the difference is that seattle gets it pretty much little by little all year long and that new york gets several mass strong rain storms.
in that case i would luv to hear from a snorkel owner from new york considering my exp. with seattle's hard rains.they are really hard at times.
thus new york's must be worse and id luv to know wut happens to those snorkels....but i digress
in that case i would luv to hear from a snorkel owner from new york considering my exp. with seattle's hard rains.they are really hard at times.
thus new york's must be worse and id luv to know wut happens to those snorkels....but i digress
#10
No, you're right I have only been to Seattle once and it was dry. I have lived in Vancouver, BC all my life and have had to pull over on several occasions when the rain was so hard, you couldn't see out of the car with the wipers on full.
The 22RE, driving at 3000rpm ingests ~30L (8 gal.) of air per second at full throttle. It is reasonable with you would be driving on the highway at about half throttle. If the relationship between throttle position and intake vacuum is linear, then it is reasonable to assume that 15L of air is entering the intake every second. If it an engine hydrolocks with perhaps a half the total compressed volume of the cylinder being water, you would have to be ingesting about 7.5 L of water a second. That's a lot of water to be entering a To tie it in with my initial argument that you would be impossible to drive in rain that had the capacity to hydrolock an engine with a snorkel, the 7.5L of water would have to enter an opening with an area of of about 6"x4" (0.0015m^2). The windshield is about 0.726m^2 in area. Given that the opening of a snorkel is 50x smaller ( I calculated than the area of the windshield above), if you were driving in rain bad enough to hydrolock your 2.4L engine at 3000rpm at half throttle, there would be 375L (100 gal) of water hitting your windshield every second. Chaos would ensue and you would be physically slowed down by the mass of water you had to move and of course, as I said, be unable to see. Thanks for wasting 15 minutes of my life.
That would be like driving directly under this guy.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mYgzThkKaaE[/youtube]
The 22RE, driving at 3000rpm ingests ~30L (8 gal.) of air per second at full throttle. It is reasonable with you would be driving on the highway at about half throttle. If the relationship between throttle position and intake vacuum is linear, then it is reasonable to assume that 15L of air is entering the intake every second. If it an engine hydrolocks with perhaps a half the total compressed volume of the cylinder being water, you would have to be ingesting about 7.5 L of water a second. That's a lot of water to be entering a To tie it in with my initial argument that you would be impossible to drive in rain that had the capacity to hydrolock an engine with a snorkel, the 7.5L of water would have to enter an opening with an area of of about 6"x4" (0.0015m^2). The windshield is about 0.726m^2 in area. Given that the opening of a snorkel is 50x smaller ( I calculated than the area of the windshield above), if you were driving in rain bad enough to hydrolock your 2.4L engine at 3000rpm at half throttle, there would be 375L (100 gal) of water hitting your windshield every second. Chaos would ensue and you would be physically slowed down by the mass of water you had to move and of course, as I said, be unable to see. Thanks for wasting 15 minutes of my life.
That would be like driving directly under this guy.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mYgzThkKaaE[/youtube]
Last edited by Matt16; 10-07-2008 at 12:05 AM.
#13
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=73236
Usually done with engines >100k miles on them.
I saw some questions about this, so here's how you do it. As always, be careful and don't hold me responsible if you mess up your car.
First, this is easier with someone helping you. Go buy a bottle of spring water (20 oz is what I use) or if you don't want to spend any money, get water from a tap that has little or no additives (chlorine, salt, etc...).
1. Start your car and let it warm up.
2. Remove the air ducts from throttle body (air cleaner off carburated cars).
3. Increase idle of engine slowly till ~3500 rpms. You can use your free hand or have someone help you.
4. Keep the engine idle high and slowly poor water in the throttle body. If you hear the engine bogging down, slow down or stop pooring the water. It should take 40 seconds to empty the bottle.
5. Make sure you keep the engine idle high the entire time!!!
6. After the bottle is empty, keep engine idle high for another minute or so.
7. Drive car around for 10 minutes preferable at speeds > 45 mph (so engine heats up to burn any remaining water from oil).
Yes it works and will clean your cylinders very well. It's safe as long as you pay attention to how your engine is behaving and keep the idle up. If you do stall your car, don't bother trying to start it again. Just pull the plugs, allow the car to turn over a couple of times, dry plugs (or get new ones) and put them back in. Don't use ether or other combustibles to try to start it. Start it normal. I've cleaned 7 engines like this without any problems. Because you are adding water to the engine, this is best done a couple of days before you plan to change the oil.
Last edited by Matt16; 10-07-2008 at 01:02 AM.
#14
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Hey now, it's MY job to break out the numbers lol. You stole my thunder. But yeah, here's another way of looking at it.
Seeing as how our yoters are 2.4L 4-cylinder four-stroke engines, the displacement per cylinder is 0.6L. Lets assume that all it takes to hydrolock an engine is for a single cylinder to have half of it's volume filled with a non-compressible fluid (we'll say water for this example. though it's not really since a hydrostatic pressure of 6.89kPa reduces volume by ~3.4e-6 of the original volume). So theoretically 0.3L of water entering the engine on the intake stroke could hydrolock the motor due to the "non-compressibility" of water during the compression stroke. That would be roughly 1.2 cups of water at any one time to fubar the motor. You'd have to be in one HELL of a storm to get 1.2cups of water into any of the cylinders during the intake stroke with a motor turning at 1500-3000rpm. You'd literally have to force 1.2cups of water down in 1/6,000th-1/12,000th of a second to get it all into one cylinder depending on your engine speed.
Seeing as how our yoters are 2.4L 4-cylinder four-stroke engines, the displacement per cylinder is 0.6L. Lets assume that all it takes to hydrolock an engine is for a single cylinder to have half of it's volume filled with a non-compressible fluid (we'll say water for this example. though it's not really since a hydrostatic pressure of 6.89kPa reduces volume by ~3.4e-6 of the original volume). So theoretically 0.3L of water entering the engine on the intake stroke could hydrolock the motor due to the "non-compressibility" of water during the compression stroke. That would be roughly 1.2 cups of water at any one time to fubar the motor. You'd have to be in one HELL of a storm to get 1.2cups of water into any of the cylinders during the intake stroke with a motor turning at 1500-3000rpm. You'd literally have to force 1.2cups of water down in 1/6,000th-1/12,000th of a second to get it all into one cylinder depending on your engine speed.
Last edited by SwampThing; 10-07-2008 at 05:49 AM.
#15
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I think that if I ever need to decarb I'll just use Seafoam.
But this is a free country, so if you want to do that to your motor please, go ahead. But I'd refrain from encouraging others to follow.
#16
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^Plus if you blow out all that carbon, your compression ratio will drop! (sorry, was listening to some hilarious little honda riceburner boys at a restaurant yesterday... "DUDE I JUST GOT SOME INJEN STICKERS!" lmao...)
#17
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I run one of these http://www.fuelinjection.net/donaldson/fullview_pc.htm I think at the time I paid something like $25 for it from an air compressor supply store
#18
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Hey now, it's MY job to break out the numbers lol. You stole my thunder. But yeah, here's another way of looking at it.
Seeing as how our yoters are 2.4L 4-cylinder four-stroke engines, the displacement per cylinder is 0.6L. Lets assume that all it takes to hydrolock an engine is for a single cylinder to have half of it's volume filled with a non-compressible fluid (we'll say water for this example. though it's not really since a hydrostatic pressure of 6.89kPa reduces volume by ~3.4e-6 of the original volume). So theoretically 0.3L of water entering the engine on the intake stroke could hydrolock the motor due to in "non-compressibility" of water during the compression stroke. That would be roughly 1.2 cups of water at any one time to fubar the motor. You'd have to be in one HELL of a storm to get 1.2cups of water into any of the cylinders during the intake stroke with a motor turning at 1500-3000rpm. You'd literally have to force 1.2cups of water down in 1/6,000th-1/12,000th of a second to get it all into one cylinder depending on your engine speed.
Seeing as how our yoters are 2.4L 4-cylinder four-stroke engines, the displacement per cylinder is 0.6L. Lets assume that all it takes to hydrolock an engine is for a single cylinder to have half of it's volume filled with a non-compressible fluid (we'll say water for this example. though it's not really since a hydrostatic pressure of 6.89kPa reduces volume by ~3.4e-6 of the original volume). So theoretically 0.3L of water entering the engine on the intake stroke could hydrolock the motor due to in "non-compressibility" of water during the compression stroke. That would be roughly 1.2 cups of water at any one time to fubar the motor. You'd have to be in one HELL of a storm to get 1.2cups of water into any of the cylinders during the intake stroke with a motor turning at 1500-3000rpm. You'd literally have to force 1.2cups of water down in 1/6,000th-1/12,000th of a second to get it all into one cylinder depending on your engine speed.
When you haven't been drinking you really scare the hell out of me.
#19
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Lol guess you never read my post about tire pressure and mileage. Speaking of which, that was a good thread, wonder why it died...
And I'm somewhat surprised that you didn't quote my last drunk post from the mother of all threads. Haha...
And I'm somewhat surprised that you didn't quote my last drunk post from the mother of all threads. Haha...
Last edited by SwampThing; 10-07-2008 at 05:49 AM.
#20
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Um yeah.. There's no way that's good for your engine. As a matter of fact it's kind of crappy that you'd post that it is because there are plenty of people not in the know around here that will actually try that out. If it was that simple and actually good for your motor, the OEM's would put water injectors on their cars and trucks so we could all enjoy this free steam cleaning. <snip>
The short version is this: Water injection has been around a LONG time and it's benefits are well documented. Keep an open mind and do some research. Never would manufacturers would install a device on their cars that would reduce their income on the Service after the sale. It's not used because it's not profitable.
I do a combustion chamber steam clean for customers cars that have failed Ontario Drive Clean emissions testing, and 80% of them pass after the cleaning. Oxides of Nitrogen (NOx) are reduced because of lower compression (no carbon buildup). Cat's are cleaned - I've averaged 50 degree F increases in temps. O2 sensors respond faster because the crud has been washed away and you can get proper oxygen signals again. Some folks even claim it's feels stronger afterwards (I'll discuss how it's possible via PM or another thread). In all, the proper induction of water into a piston engine can have benefits if it's currently carbon'ed up.