SR5

theres two on Here and id like the cheaper one

its for my v6 4runner

konaman

They have them at autozone for $100

SR5

^^^ ill have to check that out

but the reason i ask is there are two radiotrs made of two diffrent componets, one is brass and copper the other is alumnium and plastic?

Alaska90

i had to replace my rad this past summer, i went with the AL/Plastic. its working just fine. i got it form napa, but i suspect the AZ ones are about the same.

90 P/U V6

rworegon

SR5, what's in there now....AL and plastic? If it has served you well, why not get the same type for the new one? I have a AL/Plastic from Performance Radiator in my Tacoma for the past 2 yrs. - works great.

Astralplane

I put in the plastic type with hesitation 6 months ago.
So far it's been great, temp gauge just as perfect as before plus I don't have to worry about pin holes in the top.

Outsane

The nice thing about the plastic type is that the bond between the plastic and metal is weak.

So hopefully your radiator top will blow before your headgasket... like a pressure release valve..

SR5

^^that's an interesting thought^^^^

and thank you i will go with the AL and plastic, i was just worried about buying raditor that had plastic, but it seems like evreyone has had good results,

and if not mistaking thats what the previous owner had

BMcEL

The radiator cap will release long before there is enough pressure to blow the reservoirs.

Most if not all OEM radiators on newer vehicles are aluminum/plastic. The old brass/copper units were phased out primarily due the cost difference.

konaman

Good info on this thread. I had my original rad welded at a rad shop as it was leaking around the upper hose outlet. It was sealed for about 1 week and its leaking again. I was gonna replace it with the original style from auto zone but after reading about the plastic ones I'm gonna go that route since they are $56.00 with free shipping on eBay.

BMcEL

The brass radiators can be repaired but once that old brass gets brittle, it's time to get rid of it. I soldered all the pinholes and cracks on my factory brass/copper unit but new ones just kept developing.

I picked up two APDI aluminum/plastic radiators from Napa with lifetime warranties (one for both my trucks). No problems so far. Napa is one of the only places I buy non-OEM parts. Napa is also one of the few auto parts stores that doesn't sell complete crap.

Turd Furgeson

If you're gonna run the plastic /aluminum one,flush the engine REALLY well before you install the new one and keep up on changing the antifreeze. You might also want to have your cooling system tested for electrolysis and make sure it's in spec too. If you have any bad grounds and have too much stray current in the system that aluminum core will get tiny holes burnt into the tubes and most (if not all) places will not warranty that. It happens a lot. Aluminum is more tempermental when it comes to keeping up on coolant and such. Your best bet is the copper/brass one,but those aren't built very well and start falling apart pretty quick too. When the outside rows of tubes/fins start bulging and coming apart you can have a good radiator shop re-core it with a better quality core and if they know what they're doing they will block off the end rows of tubes and fill the seams/all solder connections FULL of solder. We prefer pacific cores, they seem to be built with heavier tubes/materials and have a nice build up of solder around the tubes and they do the best job I've seen of swedging the tubes. If you ever go that route it'll probably be the best radiator you can get if done right. Oh, and if you go with the aluminum one, this seems to be pretty good added insurance to add to your cooling system http://www.lubegard.ch/01_auto/96001_e_koolit_02.htm Not a fix or cure-all,but seems to help.