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Rad-Replace or Repair

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Old May 18, 2007 | 11:46 AM
  #1  
91TPU's Avatar
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From: NorthWest NJ
Rad-Replace or Repair

ok so i posted this before the paragon trip that we i went on

i have a small hairline crack in the top of my radiator, i jb welded it, that lasted for about 2.5months...i dont wanna do this every couple of months so im at a crossroads, take it and have it repaired=truck down for a day...or replace it in my free time next week=truck down for prolly only two hours max...

so here is my decision, if i get a new one, i wanna go aluminum, i hear they stand up better to offroading and such...what would you guys/gals recommend?
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Old May 18, 2007 | 12:01 PM
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and for those of you that have done repairs, how did you like them, how did they last?
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Old May 18, 2007 | 12:09 PM
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From: GRASS valley, CA
i would replace it and not have to worry, were did you see a alum. one (i've been looking for one)
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Old May 18, 2007 | 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 91TPU
so here is my decision, if i get a new one, i wanna go aluminum, i hear they stand up better to offroading and such...what would you guys/gals recommend?
Is that true? In any case, a good stock style radiator is cheap, about $150 for my 4 cylinder '91 and I'd think any aluminum would be pretty expensive. I personally had my radiator rodded and cleaned for about $80 locally, but it was still solid mechanically.
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Old May 18, 2007 | 12:16 PM
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It just occurred to me, when you say aluminum do you mean an all aluminum like a Griffin or Be Cool or something or a plastic tank/aluminum core? I would personally stick with an all brass radiator over a plastic tank one, but that's just me.

Last edited by DaveInDenver; May 18, 2007 at 12:20 PM.
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Old May 18, 2007 | 12:24 PM
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I used solder to seal the drain plug spout, after I accidentaly bumped it removing my idler arm. It worked good untill the next day when I bumped it again. I repaired my repair and it hasn't leaked (been bumped) yet.

I would try filling a small crack with solder, it's worth a try. Solder's cheap.
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Old May 18, 2007 | 01:21 PM
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Custom aluminum radiators run upwards of $400 dollars. I would go with the stock unit. Radiators are somewhat of a "sacrificial" part.

In the western deserts here, cooling is a CRITICAL issue, I don't mess around with radiators, if it has a leak, I will get a new one.

If you are in the field a JB repair or a solder repair is good and will work on a standard radiator, not sure if it will work on an Aluminum Unit.

Generally you can get a replacement "heavy duty" radiator with another row of tubes for a few bucks more. go that route.

Keep the cooling system in good shape. a $200 dollar radiator will prevent $900 headgasket replacement
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Old May 18, 2007 | 03:43 PM
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From: GRASS valley, CA
i would liek a all alum one (my old rx7 koyo's used to run $250-275)
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Old May 18, 2007 | 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by norcalsvx
i would liek a all alum one (my old rx7 koyo's used to run $250-275)
i had an aluminum one in my integra, i cant seem to find aluminum ones, full aluminum that is, for yota pickups...

thanks for the replys everyone, i decided after some price searching that next paycheck ill pick up a new one, preferably something a bit better, and maybe more offroad worthy...
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 01:43 PM
  #10  
Belize Off Road Team's Avatar
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From: Edmonton, Alberta
I am looking for a radiator that will either increase horsepower and or make my 4Runner lighter in weight or improve fuel economy, cooler engine, etc. what is the best to buy to improve your engine? please keep it under 500 if possible
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 03:39 PM
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From: Detroit, MI
Found a aluminum radiator on ebay for toyota pickups...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYOT...spagenameZWDVW

OR...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYOT...spagenameZWDVW

No clue how good they are?
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 04:10 PM
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unless it's a matter of performance, I myself would just buy a replacement of the one I got, since it went 190k before cracking, and spend the $$ saved not buying an alum. one on something else! Just my .02
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