you can also lower your cv angles by putting a 1'' spacer in the rear diff mounts... with pivots the rear of the diff down witch lowers the cv angles.

It works.


You may need longer bolts..

 

Yep, a diff drop kit is a good option if you find the CV joints are binding due to the lift or if you experience higher than normal CV joint or boot failure rate:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/DiffDrop.shtml


Probably not needed in all cases, just where you run into problems. Had one guy and his buddy both install 1.5" spacers on their '90s vintage trucks. One had no problems at all, but the other one had CV joint binding at full droop. Both had OEM CV joints and were otherwise identical setups. It just seemed that the one set of CV joints did not have quite the angle capability as the other set. The diff drop kit lowered the angles just enough to eliminate the binding on the one truck.

 

OK so say I keep my ADD and have the front up 1" as I do now. Is that really going to create that much extra wear on my cv's?? I could swap to manual hubs but I just dont really want to right now. Plus I like the ADD. I dont think im gonna put in 1.5" as I want the exact same stance as I have now only without using my torsion bars to achieve it. Im thinking throw on some 1" bj spacers, return my t-bars to where they were and im done, same stance, better ride, and theoretically I shouldnt need an alignment right? Keep in mind although I put in 2 inch springs in the back I was hoping to lift the back one more inch than the front to rid myself of the sagging look, I just want the front up another inch so it doesnt look like a 70's muscle car. Again thanks for the help guys.

 

CV wear will be no different than what you currently have. That is 1" t-bar crank gives the same CV joint angles as 1" lift via a ball joint spacer. That is 1" = 1" as far as the CVs can tell. And you can use a 1.5" spacer and lower the t-bars to get 1" lift as well:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...cer.shtml#FAQ2

And manual hubs do not imply no ADD. You can replace the ADD drive flanges with manual hubs. If you lock the hubs, you have exactly the same setup as the stock ADD. And with the hubs unlocked, you simply stop the front end parts from moving and creating extra wear and tear.

 

woah, I just noticed. The diff drop makes the front diffs drain plug a HUGE rock magnet!

 

lol, without some sort of armor under it, yes it would appear it does

 

The angle of the photo makes it look like it hangs lower than it really does. I recall that the drain plug is higher than the front crossmember, so that part will hit first. And no different than the rear axle (or front on a solid axle rig), the drain plus are the on the bottom of the axles.

 

"Im thinking throw on some 1" bj spacers, return my t-bars to where they were and im done, same stance, better ride, and theoretically I shouldnt need an alignment right?"

I would like to know the answer to this question as well, as I have put in 2" taller coil springs in the back, and have 1" more lift in the back also. My t-bars are cranked, I believe, and I have 1.5" ball joint spacers sitting on the work bench in my garage.

 

Alignment would likely be close, but the camber and toe in may change a little. Why? If you assume a horizontal UCA at stock height, if you crank it up 1" or whatever, it is now angled down at some angle. Thus it will project out a little less than it did when it was horizontal. Not raise it back up and put in a spacer. Now the UCA is still horizontal and thus is sticking out farther than when it was angled down. The LCA is still the same (assuming similar lift height) so that would mean the UCA is pushing the spindle out a little farther than before, changing the camber and that also affects the toe. You can get pretty close by measuring the alignment before and then reset it after in your driveway:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...GetAnAlignment

 

I only noticed how far down the Diff hangs with the diff drop after a friend took this photo of my rig.

It certainly does hang below the front crossmember, enough to concern me. I may even remove the diff drop rather than smash up the Drain plug.

 

OK so I am ordering the 1.5" spacers. I was gonna get 1" but they cost more and take longer to order. Does anyone know if a 1.5 with the OME coils/shocks in the rear will give a good stance? I just dont want to have the 2nd gen sag illusion due to the fender cuts. Also, if the front does seem a bit too high is it ok/will it ride well if I lower the t- bars a little less than stock or is that a bad idea. A couple people have mentioned that but then wouldnt my ride be a little too spongy??? And 1 more thing. Do I need new front shock or can my stock ones handle the lift and where does one go about getting these limit straps/extended bump stops. How much extention would I need for a bump stop???? Thanks.

 

No problem to lower the torsion bars if needed. You still have the same spring rate regardless of where the torsion bars are set. The suspension will flex better the less you have the bars cranked up.

 

The drivers wheel looking like it got seriously messed up camber there, or is that just me?


The rear diff hangs a lot lower, and in an SAS, the axle housing is what hits first if you were to collide with a rock. I'm betting it would be quite and a feat to damage a front diff due to impact. Having struggled with one to mount it back under the truck, they're pretty seriously heavy.

 

Hey mtngoat, where did you get your limiting straps, and how much were they??
also, with your lift, i was wondering about how long yours are...

 

You could grind the lip down a bit and use a low profile plug. Same could be done with the rear, which hangs lower anyways.

 

Yeah, that can be done. But one of the better things about IFS is having the diff tucked away...

 

unless it causes CV damage...