mcerwing

i finally got my heads back, and now i'm gonna start to put it back together.
but first i have some questions:
1. in the FSM, it says to use "seal packing" on the bearing caps. what is seal packing?

2. what should i use to tap the oil seals in place on the heads without damaging them?

3. any other hints, tricks, or things that are often forgotten when putting the engine back together? i've read through most of the little walkthroughs, and the FSM, but is there anything else?

4. is there anywhere i should use gasket maker (like right stuff) to complete a seal?


thanks in advance for the help.

mcerwing

Ganoid

I used "the Right Stuff" every where that called for seal packing. I think toyota has their own brand they recommend but after three different 3.0 reassemblies I can tell you that "the Right stuff" works great as I have had no oil leaks. Don't use the crappy cork oil pan gasket supplied with most kits use "The Right Stuff". The FSM calls for FIPG on almost everything but most kits provide a paper gasket for things like a water pump. Just go with what the FSM says.

I would put the rear cam seal in before you even place the heads on the block. On the front seal I placed it in when I put the cams in (after the head was torqued) . Set the cams in place then snug the caps down. I backed the front cap off a bit in order to tap the seal in (much easier). Once the front seal is in place then torque everything down. With the front cap a bit loose the seal can be tapped in with a wooden handle just work your way around gently (don't push it in past flush).

I spread a little of "The Right Stuff" onto both sides of the gaskets where the water ports are that go between the cyl head and the lower manifold. That is a common place to get water leakage. They are the square holes at each end of your lower intake manifold gaskets (the metal gaskets).

I tried to use an inch pound TQ wrench to put the lower intake and valve cover bolts back on but after 2 broken bolts I found it much easier to just go with what feels right. After a few times you will know whats the proper amount. On items with tons of small bolts (lower intake,valve cover,oil pan,etc...) be sure you go over them a few times to make sure tightening one didn't cause the one next to it to become loose.

Note where the FSM says to use seal packing in a few spots on the valve covers as its easy to rush things at that point and forget.

Don't get caught up in the more is better theory when putting the timing belt on if its too tight it will whine. let the spring set the tension, allow the tensioner to float with spring pressure when you rotate the motor around twice to check the timing then just torque it down with what ever the spring has on it for pressure.

If you plasti-gauge stuff you will notice the the front journal of your motor is usually considerably more worn than the rest. Keep that in mind when you start tightening belts. People often times don't think about the amount of wear that occurs on the front main journal when they get carried away with belt tension on things like alternators,ac pumps,Power steering etc....

If I think of any more I will chime in.

mcerwing

thanks a lot for all the great info.

one more thing.
i haven't seen it mentioned anywhere, but i was thinking....
if coolant was coming out of the exhaust, wouldn't it get the O2 sensor wet and ruin it?

i guess i get to add another thing to my list of things i need...