Pulled distributor on 3vze....ooops
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Pulled distributor on 3vze....ooops
Like a dingwad, I pulled out my distributor to check the shaft for play. Was hunting down a mysterious vibration behind the timing cover. The motor was not set to TDC before doing so, either. So obviously I need to set it back on the compression stroke. How do I do this without the distributor in? The timing belt is still on with all related gears still aligned.
Please tell me how, or point me to the appropriate section in the FSM.
Thanks,
Dork
Please tell me how, or point me to the appropriate section in the FSM.
Thanks,
Dork
#2
Registered User
Join Date: May 2005
Location: memphis
Posts: 268
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
if you can see inside the sparkplug hole then you can pull the number one plug and with a flashlight watch while someone turns your crank over untill you see the piston reach the top and you have a 50/50 chance that you are on the compression stroke. then insert the distributor and give it a try. of course pull the battery cables before you start turning the crank. if it is 180 off then give it another shot. you can also have someone bump your starter with the number one plug pulled and the ignitor grounded you can feel with your finger in the spark plug hole the compression stroke. with each bump you should feel a suck, push, suck, push. the strongest push will be the compression stroke. line the timing mark on your harmonic balancer to top dead center and insert the distributor. don't be intimidated, it's not a big deal. and yeah the fsm outlines the process pretty well.
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
if you can see inside the sparkplug hole then you can pull the number one plug and with a flashlight watch while someone turns your crank over untill you see the piston reach the top and you have a 50/50 chance that you are on the compression stroke. then insert the distributor and give it a try. of course pull the battery cables before you start turning the crank. if it is 180 off then give it another shot. you can also have someone bump your starter with the number one plug pulled and the ignitor grounded you can feel with your finger in the spark plug hole the compression stroke. with each bump you should feel a suck, push, suck, push. the strongest push will be the compression stroke. line the timing mark on your harmonic balancer to top dead center and insert the distributor. don't be intimidated, it's not a big deal. and yeah the fsm outlines the process pretty well.
(EDIT: found it. Now if I can just get the page to load....grrr)
BTW, I happen to be Mempho native. Where might you live?
Last edited by thook; 06-21-2007 at 12:02 AM.
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Santa Clara California
Posts: 864
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I usualy turnt he engine over with braker bar on the harmonic balacer bolt, or have a buddy do it, and wait til you feel a gust of air come out the #1 spark plug hole. never failed me.
works even better is you ahve a hose from a compression tester on there, you can put your thunb over the end.
works even better is you ahve a hose from a compression tester on there, you can put your thunb over the end.
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
I usualy turnt he engine over with braker bar on the harmonic balacer bolt, or have a buddy do it, and wait til you feel a gust of air come out the #1 spark plug hole. never failed me.
works even better is you ahve a hose from a compression tester on there, you can put your thunb over the end.
works even better is you ahve a hose from a compression tester on there, you can put your thunb over the end.
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 1,756
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
6 Posts
I usualy turnt he engine over with braker bar on the harmonic balacer bolt, or have a buddy do it, and wait til you feel a gust of air come out the #1 spark plug hole. never failed me.
works even better is you ahve a hose from a compression tester on there, you can put your thumb over the end.
works even better is you ahve a hose from a compression tester on there, you can put your thumb over the end.
#9
Contributing Member
If you can remember where your rotor was pointing then just pop the distributor back in.
The body of the distributor and the block have alignment marks which will get your timing close enough to start.
Of course this won't work if the engine was rotated while the distributor was out.
The body of the distributor and the block have alignment marks which will get your timing close enough to start.
Of course this won't work if the engine was rotated while the distributor was out.
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
That's how I did it by myself. I put a compression tester in sparkplug #1 hole, and spin the engine by hand. You have to give it a good fast turn to get any pressure to register on the guage, and it will probably only go up to 5-10 psi, but you should be able to see the difference between compression and exhaust strokes by doing it this way.
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
If you can remember where your rotor was pointing then just pop the distributor back in.
The body of the distributor and the block have alignment marks which will get your timing close enough to start.
Of course this won't work if the engine was rotated while the distributor was out.
The body of the distributor and the block have alignment marks which will get your timing close enough to start.
Of course this won't work if the engine was rotated while the distributor was out.
Thanks all!
BTW, never buy a timing light from Harbor Freight. Tried three times already. No worky!
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
Okay, I get it. If the the crank pulley is set to TDC and the cams are set on there marks, then it's at TDC on the compression stroke. That simple.
I just read on another forum that it's the cam position that determines exhaust or compression stroke.
I just read on another forum that it's the cam position that determines exhaust or compression stroke.
#13
Registered User
Thread Starter
And for anyone interested.....
A good way to set the timing belt tension (before you set the tensioner pulley) is to, of course, wrap the belt over the driver side cam pulley as tight as you can, then under the idler pulley, and then!!!...advance the pass. side cam pulley just a hair past the mark (toward the driver's side), wrap the belt over it and pull the pass. cam back to it's mark. It gets it good and tight! Provided you don't also pull the other pulley off of it's mark! Then, on to the rest of the procedure.
Anyhow....onward through the fog.
A good way to set the timing belt tension (before you set the tensioner pulley) is to, of course, wrap the belt over the driver side cam pulley as tight as you can, then under the idler pulley, and then!!!...advance the pass. side cam pulley just a hair past the mark (toward the driver's side), wrap the belt over it and pull the pass. cam back to it's mark. It gets it good and tight! Provided you don't also pull the other pulley off of it's mark! Then, on to the rest of the procedure.
Anyhow....onward through the fog.
#14
Contributing Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
Posts: 4,787
Likes: 0
Received 34 Likes
on
14 Posts
And for anyone interested.....
A good way to set the timing belt tension (before you set the tensioner pulley) is to, of course, wrap the belt over the driver side cam pulley as tight as you can, then under the idler pulley, and then!!!...advance the pass. side cam pulley just a hair past the mark (toward the driver's side), wrap the belt over it and pull the pass. cam back to it's mark. It gets it good and tight! Provided you don't also pull the other pulley off of it's mark! Then, on to the rest of the procedure.
Anyhow....onward through the fog.
A good way to set the timing belt tension (before you set the tensioner pulley) is to, of course, wrap the belt over the driver side cam pulley as tight as you can, then under the idler pulley, and then!!!...advance the pass. side cam pulley just a hair past the mark (toward the driver's side), wrap the belt over it and pull the pass. cam back to it's mark. It gets it good and tight! Provided you don't also pull the other pulley off of it's mark! Then, on to the rest of the procedure.
Anyhow....onward through the fog.
#15
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Blamalam
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
22
03-12-2022 07:34 AM
2002, 3vze, alignment, battery, compression, dead, difference, distributor, exhaust, numbers, pulled, replace, stroke, taurus, toyota