funjumper

Is there any good tech writeup on pulling a 3vze from a '94 4runner?

I have some questions about what I have to remove to do this successfully.

I haven't decided if I am going to repair the 3vze or do the 3.4 swap.

After looking at the motor, I think it will be easier to pull the motor to do the head gaskets and so forth, rather than leave the motor in and do the work in place. I am not young and limber anymore. It will be a lot easier on an engine stand than in the truck

I want to leave the manual trans in place. I want to leave the AC condensor and compressor in place. I want to remove as little as possible to pull the motor out intact.

I have the FSM for my 4Runner. There is lots of detail about the individual systems. I can't find anything about actually removing the motor. The Chiltons manual has a very short and concise part about engine removal.

intense

bump....cause I'd like to know this, as well

cweich

i just started a thread on this same subject, I have mine out of the truck, and its a job to get it done. I agree that it will be easier to change head gaskets on a motor stand, but there are alot of things on this motor that have to be taken loose, that are hard to get to. I have one more to remove and install. I am not looking forward to it.

breknraj

First, be sure to take copious pictures before you get started - it will be a lifesaver when you re-assemble it.

Check my 3.4 swap thread to see some of the snags that I ran into removing my 3.0: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160/finally-venturing-into-my-3-4-swap-dial-up-warning-93642/

I also recommend getting your hands on the real FSM, as it details the procedure for removing the engine. I didn't have much of a problem in removing the engine, and leaving the transmission in the truck, but putting it back together was a bear!

Feel free to check my reference pictures, if you need to: http://rides.webshots.com/album/555352913PvUzIT

If you have the means, I really suggest that you go for the 3.4. Mine has been running for about 7 weeks, now, and I love it! Far superior to the 3.0!

funjumper

I have the FSM for my 1994 4runner. The actual printed manuals. If there is a section about removing the motor, I can't find it. There is lots of detail about each system. Nothing about pulling the motor itself.

I am leaning towards doing the 3.4 conversion. I have to pull the motor one way or another.

mt_goat

Check out Cebby's swap. The removal part starts about post #215 on page 9:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...t=54771&page=9

breknraj

Do you have both books? Leastwise, both my '90 and the '02 Taco were both two volume sets.

The Engine manual outlines the removal, although they say to take the tranny with the engine, all at once. You can definitely remove the engine and leave the tranny in place - just follow all of the directions for the engine removal, then unbolt the transmission (supporting the front of it with a jack, and leaving the back mount attached to the crossmember).

littlerunner

i am in the process of removing 3vz from a 91 4runner.taking it out a piece at time.got the right head off now.going for the left this weekend.it seems easier to take out this way as others have said some of the stuff on the engine is very difficult to get to.i did not remove condensor but did take radiator out to access crank pulley bolt with impcat wrench.going to pull short block by itself.

Tigerstripe40

Here is what I learned from doing mine.

Don't bother.
Do the 5VZ swap.
After what I just spent on my 3VZ-E rebuild,

I REALLY regret not just doing the 5VZ-E swap.

I'd be out THE SAME amount of money, and have a better, more reliabile, and upgradable engine.

I could have had a complete motor with 44,000 miles on it, dealership maintenance documentation(went to the dealership service counter with the vin), accessories, wiring harness, computer and anything I needed from a wrecking yard for $950.
Body lift was another $250
ORS complete kit was $1700
HEader setup: $1000

Compare that to:
Machine shop bill$1600
new crank and rods: $350
Water pump: $200 (oem)
oil pump : $250 (OEM)
OEM Gasket kit: $80
Exhaust sysem: $1000
replacement engine wiring harness: $650 (OEM)
new oil pan: $200
new fuel injector: $150
Fuel injector servicing: $100
port and polish kit for the heads: $50
.
.
.
And tons of other miscelaneous crap that you end up replacing 'cause its old, tired, or should really do while you are in there.
Etc.

The totals come out the same for 3VZ-E and 5VZ-E.

littlerunner

,man what did you have done at the machine shop that was $1600.i have my parts list for 3.0 rebuild at about $1200.$300 at machine shop to rpl valves & bore block.or orient engine has a reman for $1900.

funjumper

I have both books. I have been through the engine one pretty carefully and I didn't find anything about engine removal. I find the lack of an index in the FSM to be very annoying. I may have missed the section. Got the page numbers by any chance?

breknraj

Keep in mind that this is a 1990 FSM for the truck.

Volume I - page EM-167

Engine Mechanical (3VZ-E) - Cylinder Block

Removal of Engine


This outlines removing the engine (including the transmission, which you DO NOT have to do).

I hope that this helps.

funjumper

Pages 89-94 are missing from my FSM. I didn't notice the missing pages. The FSM is well used. Time to get another one... bummer. In the meantime I used the '93 pickup FSM pages to start work.

I did take a bunch of pictures. I pulled the radiator and air box last night, then took more pictures. Over 100 pictures from all possible angles. I took some of the underside as well. I was looking at the pictures last night. Compared to some of the midwest and east coast engine compartment pictures I have seen, mine looks quite clean. So does the frame and wheel wells. The exhaust system is still the original and it looks pretty good. I'll start another thread later this week and post some pictures.

funjumper

I did some more work pulling parts last night. The power steering pulley nut won't budge. I sprayed it with Kroil last night. I'll have another go at it tonight.

There are lots of tips on this problem. I found several with the search function.

mt_goat

Just leave it on.

funjumper

The manual says to unplug the ECU connector. Just where exactly is the ECU connector? There is a cable bundle that runs from the igniter and coil, across the top front of the motor to the passenger side, then under the evap cannister, etc, and through the firewall. There doesn't appear to be an "under the hood" connector for this. The bundle has a big "95" sticker on the passenger side. My 4runner is a '94. This seems a bit odd.

I attached some pictures. Hints, tips suggestions?

If anyone is looking for 3VZE pictures, I took about 150 already.

breknraj

If yours is like my '90, then your ECU connectors are at the bottom of your ECU, behind the passenger side kick panel.

As to the "95" that you are seeing - Was your truck built in late '94 (Oct, Nov, Dec)? If so, then it is a '95 model year. My '90 was actually built in Oct of '89.

funjumper

Thanks. Do the ECU connectors pull through the hole in the firewall?

I am trying to pull the motor with the least amount of dis-assembly.

I am planning to do a 3.4 swap. I plan to pull the 3VZE and put it on an engine stand. Once the 3.4 swap is done, I'll fix the bad head gasket and sell the 3VZE.

Last time I pulled a motor was about 25 years ago. It was a lot less complicated back then.

mt_goat

Yes, just pull the 3.0 engine harness through the firewall and leave the whole harness attached to the engine. But cut the rubber seal/boot thingy off the harness and save it to protect the 3.4 harness.

snap-on

ive got a thread of pics of my pull/rebuild and install floating around....