I'm getting a noise from the left front while driving. Sounds like it is in the front drive shaft. I still need to get an alignment. Has anyone had a simiiar issue.

 

Jeez. Unfortunately there are a lot of things it could be. By driveshaft, do you mean cv axle (called a driveshaft in the FSM) or the actual driveshaft (called a propeller shaft in the FSM)?

 

what does it sound like? when i put mine in i noticed noises coming from my cv axle but i just ignore them now

 

Ya, the cv axle. Its a rattle. When I get ove 25 it sounds like marbles rolling around. I guess the next step is to get a aligment and go from there.

 

Did you install a front diff drop kit?

 

Did you install by the method where everything basically stays on the truck? That would rule out anything else being loose from reassembly. (I'm a good one for getting too jazzed at the end of a project and forgetting to double check nuts/bolts)

Otherwise the only other thing I can think of besides alignment is that your CV was on it's last legs anyway and the added angle/stress finally did it in.

 

Thats a good point that the cv may be bad. Here's what happen when I lowered the brake to install the bj spacers. The right cv rotated freely when lowered. However, the left cv would not turn when completely lowered, but raise just a little from the lowest position and it rotated. The dust boot that connects to the diff is ripped so I can see inside the diff. Any input to these observations?

 

Check that both of your hubs are unlocked. With them unlocked, the CVs should not be turning.

 

I did not install a diff drop. Read alot of pros and cons. I read a post that Frank (SDORI) thought you do not need it for this little of a lift.

 

There is your answer right there... Your CV is binding at full droop. It might have been bad to begin with, but if it's making noise now don't ignore it.

I'm not sure what the cons would be... It makes sense to put the CV's to as near a stock angle as possible and this diff drop does just that. If you raise your angle just slightly and it frees up, a 1 inch diff drop would solve your problem.

You can relax your torsion bars a bit as well as a temporary fix, but whatever you choose, make sure and have your ride height set where you want it before you get it aligned. And don't go out wheeling if your CV has the potential to bind.

 

Lol his CV boot is torn.
The CV has no grease in it, it all came out of the boot.
Get a new boot, or get a whole new CV for cheap off a used truck..

 

Ehhh. Not so fast. You could be right but your statement makes a lot of assumptions. You say "binding at full droop" but the OP doesn't mention "at droop" or "when wheeling" or any of that. I assumed he meant just plain old driving down the road all the time, then he clarified "above 25 miles per hour". Unless he has the spacers on and t bars cranked, I think it's unlikely his cv angle is all that bad...But now I'm making assumptions too.

So, to the OP:
What are your cv angles like?
What kind of conditions (specifically) cause the noise?

I'm still going with bad CV in light of the torn boot.

 

No assumption here. Obviously the CV needs to be replaced because the boot is torn, that's a give-in. His noise is most likely caused by the CV boot being torn and having no grease in it.

If the CV won't rotate when "completely lowered", and the OP can "raise just a little from the lowest position and it rotates" then it is binding at full droop.

I know he didn't mention wheeling - I just threw that in there because he probably won't reach full extension driving around town, but it's likely if he goes offroad he would bind and break a CV - but either way with a torn boot it needs to be replaced.

 

Thanks for all you input, I think I'm ok. I finished late Sunday and at that point I had not adjusted the torsion bar and the front was too high. When I got home from work Monday, I relaxed the torsion bar (lowering the front about 1") to level the trunk, and test drove it and there were no odd sounds. I drove it to my local tire shop and they said to bring it in today and they could align it. Just got a call from the shop, they were able to align it and they gave me a complement on my work and liked the lift (Thats a first). I do need to take care of the boot.

Next question, Do I need to remove the hub to change the boot or is there a short cut to replacing a boot. If I need to pull the hub, I will go ahead and order manual hubs........

Also, what size tires will fit.................(Just kidding, thats a joke, I will search)

 

Sounds like Conrad was right. Funny how two folks can read the same statement differently. When I read that I took it as... while installing the spacer with everything detached... but everything was put back together.

In any event, problem solved. Good on ya pfc and YT.

 

Get a whole new cv axle from napa or somewhere like that. Only a little bit more, and it comes with a lifetime warranty.

And yes you need to remove the hubs. Its really easy once you figure it out.

 

Cons of diff drop on early IFS:

Bad driveshaft angle.
worse ground clearance.
with 1.5" spacers, and factory axles and droop stops= not needed.

 

IMHO

I'd rather replace a u-joint/driveshaft on the trail then a cv. = not a con

1.5" spacer gives your initial clearance (tires mainly) and diff drop removes that clearance gained on tire size but only on the diff. I'd rather run a larger tire for all around extra clearance. = not a con

 

Doenst even come close to binding with the diff drop, barely pulls out the spline shaft either. Since the IFS diff is frame mounted it is stationary, so the front driveshaft angle doesnt change much on uneven surfaces.

A one inch diff drop puts the diff about level with the front IFS crossmember. If you dropped on a big rock it would take it out if it were dropped or not - although this is unlikely. Even so, the clearance benefit of running bigger tires is well worth it.

The OP will either need droop stops or a diff drop to keep his CV from binding, so yes, they are necessary on a case to case basis.

I agree 100 percent. Even though it's very unlikely that the cause of a broken U-joint is the result of a one inch diff drop, it's a lot easier and cheaper to do than a CV job.

 

And to PFC - definently replace the entire CV with a new one, don't do a junkyard special or the boot only. Might as well do both sides while you're at it.

And congrats on your new lift - post pics!