PreRunner...possible?
03-22-2007, 12:22 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Posts: 680
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
PreRunner...possible?
Well i just recently got my dads 86 pickup. Ive always loved this truck, and just happy he let me have it since he hasnt drove it much in the past 5 yrs or so(just been on side of house/taken out on weekends for riding/up north trips).
Ive always loved prerunners and the trophy truck. Im not into crawling much, but going fast in the desert is what i want to do, and some trails as well, and i want to improve the front IFS, put some 31-33's on it.
I know ill need the Front ball joint spacers up front. I dont want it lifted up real high, i want as low a center of gravity as i can get while getting the tires in there, and dont want to do a bodylift. Will i be able to get the 32's-33? in there with the ability to flex still? Should i get new leafs in the rear, or are longer shackles ok?
Its a 22r with 4.10's now, so i know ill need to regear, and it is my DD as well, so im not sure if i should get 4.56's or 4.88's. I read on Pirate that for 33's 4.88 is what i should get, but i dont want to be crawling, will these be the right size for 32's or should i go for 33's?
Sorry for the long post, but ive been lurking around here, pbb(not much info besides crawling really, seems general idea over ther is IFS = crap), and a bit over at TTORA, but havent exactly foudn all the info i need.
Ive always loved prerunners and the trophy truck. Im not into crawling much, but going fast in the desert is what i want to do, and some trails as well, and i want to improve the front IFS, put some 31-33's on it.
I know ill need the Front ball joint spacers up front. I dont want it lifted up real high, i want as low a center of gravity as i can get while getting the tires in there, and dont want to do a bodylift. Will i be able to get the 32's-33? in there with the ability to flex still? Should i get new leafs in the rear, or are longer shackles ok?
Its a 22r with 4.10's now, so i know ill need to regear, and it is my DD as well, so im not sure if i should get 4.56's or 4.88's. I read on Pirate that for 33's 4.88 is what i should get, but i dont want to be crawling, will these be the right size for 32's or should i go for 33's?
Sorry for the long post, but ive been lurking around here, pbb(not much info besides crawling really, seems general idea over ther is IFS = crap), and a bit over at TTORA, but havent exactly foudn all the info i need.
Last edited by sh0kk86; 03-22-2007 at 12:24 PM.
03-22-2007, 12:24 PM
#2
Contributing Member
Well i just recently got my dads 86 pickup. Ive always loved this truck, and just happy he let me have it since he hasnt drove it much in the past 5 yrs or so(just been on side of house/taken out on weekends for riding/up north trips).
Ive always loved prerunners and the trophy trucks, and was wondering if an 86 4x4 will be good at off roading. Im not into crawling much, but going fast in the desert is what i want to do, and i want to improve the front IFS, put some 31-33's on it.
I know ill need the Front ball joint spacers up front. I dont want it lifted up real high, i want as low a center of gravity as i can get while getting the tires in there, and dont want to do a bodylift. Will i be able to get the 32's? in there with the ability to flex still? Should i get new leafs in the rear, or are longer shackles ok?
Its a 22r with 4.10's now, so i know ill need to regear, and it is my DD as well, so im not sure if i should get 4.56's or 4.88's. I read on Pirate that for 33's 4.88 is what i should get, but i dont want to be crawling, will these be the right size for 32's or should i go for 33's?
Sorry for the long post, but ive been lurking around here, pbb(not much info besides crawling really, seems general idea over ther is IFS = crap), and a bit over at TTORA, but havent exactly foudn all the info i need.
Ive always loved prerunners and the trophy trucks, and was wondering if an 86 4x4 will be good at off roading. Im not into crawling much, but going fast in the desert is what i want to do, and i want to improve the front IFS, put some 31-33's on it.
I know ill need the Front ball joint spacers up front. I dont want it lifted up real high, i want as low a center of gravity as i can get while getting the tires in there, and dont want to do a bodylift. Will i be able to get the 32's? in there with the ability to flex still? Should i get new leafs in the rear, or are longer shackles ok?
Its a 22r with 4.10's now, so i know ill need to regear, and it is my DD as well, so im not sure if i should get 4.56's or 4.88's. I read on Pirate that for 33's 4.88 is what i should get, but i dont want to be crawling, will these be the right size for 32's or should i go for 33's?
Sorry for the long post, but ive been lurking around here, pbb(not much info besides crawling really, seems general idea over ther is IFS = crap), and a bit over at TTORA, but havent exactly foudn all the info i need.
03-22-2007, 01:32 PM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Sacramento, CA.
Posts: 363
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Forget IFS, SAS that thing! j/k
Here is my advice: Don't be afraid to spend some $$$ on it. If you want to go fast like Ricky Bobby BJ spacers aren't going to cut it. Long travel is your best bet, increased wheel travel, wider more stable stance for high speed, minimal lift but a lot of adjustability. Shocks are very important. Torsion bars suck. BJ's suck (you know what I meant
). Tie rods suck. Stock idler arm sucks. Un-gusseted centerlinks suck. Upgrade all of the above components. And last but certianly not least, don't neglect the rear suspension.
On a personal note, don't be in a rush to do it all, upgrade as you go and learn all you can about IFS's weaknesses and strenghts and determine what is going to work best for you. Come to your own conclusions from experence rather than what someone else says. Are you set on keeping 4WD? I've been building my truck for 3 years now and it has cost a lot, I built my own a-arms whick saved me a lot of $$$$. I am nowhere near done and probably will never be. Take it slow and don't burn out on it. Prerunners are a lot of fun!
Here is my advice: Don't be afraid to spend some $$$ on it. If you want to go fast like Ricky Bobby BJ spacers aren't going to cut it. Long travel is your best bet, increased wheel travel, wider more stable stance for high speed, minimal lift but a lot of adjustability. Shocks are very important. Torsion bars suck. BJ's suck (you know what I meant
). Tie rods suck. Stock idler arm sucks. Un-gusseted centerlinks suck. Upgrade all of the above components. And last but certianly not least, don't neglect the rear suspension. On a personal note, don't be in a rush to do it all, upgrade as you go and learn all you can about IFS's weaknesses and strenghts and determine what is going to work best for you. Come to your own conclusions from experence rather than what someone else says. Are you set on keeping 4WD? I've been building my truck for 3 years now and it has cost a lot, I built my own a-arms whick saved me a lot of $$$$. I am nowhere near done and probably will never be. Take it slow and don't burn out on it. Prerunners are a lot of fun!
03-22-2007, 01:45 PM
#6
Registered User
If they can make Jeep XJ's into prerunners.......... anything is possible.
Prerunners aren't cheap.....but then again neither are well built rock crawlers.
IFS..................Is For Losers.
Can I use anymore.................Periods?
Prerunners aren't cheap.....but then again neither are well built rock crawlers.
IFS..................Is For Losers.
Can I use anymore.................Periods?
03-22-2007, 01:59 PM
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Springs, Colorado
Posts: 1,671
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My idea for my next project is a 2gen truck, with a 3.0 (easier swap to 3.4) then i would like to Total Chaos the front end, Use the tbars, till i can get coilovers, while saving for the coilovers i want to do the rear end. gear it up for 35s, run fiberglass and spooled rear. i think it will be pretty capable where ever i go.
Trending Topics
03-22-2007, 02:02 PM
#8
Contributing Member
There is one very important thing to remember: if you want a fast desert bomber, be prepared to shell out some mucho dollars for it. The front suspension alone will cost around $4,000, rear could be about half that. Then there's tires, fiberglass, upgraded steering components... you get the idea.
Last edited by mastacox; 03-22-2007 at 02:16 PM.
03-22-2007, 02:20 PM
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Sacramento, CA.
Posts: 363
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
There is one very important thing to remember: if you want a fast desert bomber, be prepared to shell out some mucho dollars for it. The front suspension alone will cost around $4,000, rear could be about half that. Then there's tires, and fiberglass, and... you get the idea.
That's why I say upgrade as you go and don't be in a hurry to get it all done. I have $2350 invested into my front end but like I said, I built the a arms myself which saved me about 2K. Still a lot of money but it is not such a big expense when you buy parts here and there.
03-22-2007, 02:26 PM
#10
Contributing Member
That's why I say upgrade as you go and don't be in a hurry to get it all done. I have $2350 invested into my front end but like I said, I built the a arms myself which saved me about 2K. Still a lot of money but it is not such a big expense when you buy parts here and there.
Retaining 4WD is also a expensive proposition, compared to going with a 2WD setup. It's interesting to note that 4WD is rarely needed in the really fast stuff anyway, but it's a big loss if you want to do some trail riding also.
03-22-2007, 02:41 PM
#11
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Sacramento, CA.
Posts: 363
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Agreed, that's why I have 2 trucks a 4WD 97 4Runner s/c 3.4 and the 86 Prerunner. On the prerunner I am not limited on CV angle so I didn't have to limit the travel to 12" but 15"-16". Ran tie rods and BJ's for a year, pulled apart 4 tie rods, never broke a BJ but had to replace them every 1.5-3 months. A locker gets you a lot of places and for anything more I use the 4Runner (if my lady lets me).
03-22-2007, 04:45 PM
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Posts: 680
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I wasnt planning on rushing through or expecting it to be a quick bolt on 1 time thing. Ill be working on this truck for years to come.
I dont think im ready for long travel for quite some time, and i do want to keep 4wd for the time being.
I think ill probably have a goal of getting some bilsteins all around, and look at some options for a minor lift in the rear.
Yota82, and others, what tire size are you running with the gearing?
I dont think im ready for long travel for quite some time, and i do want to keep 4wd for the time being.
I think ill probably have a goal of getting some bilsteins all around, and look at some options for a minor lift in the rear.
Yota82, and others, what tire size are you running with the gearing?
03-23-2007, 06:59 AM
#15
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Calgary, AB, Can
Posts: 687
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok, I know that torsion bars are not ideal for use with long travel designs, and coils are just so much cooler anyways. But coils are muchco $$$
I'm wanting to go with a TC front end this summer, but I've been thinking out going with the Gen 1 kit(ie keeping the torsion bars). Would it really be that bad? I want it for the extra width and little bit of lift, I'm not going to be Bajaing or anything close.
I'm wanting to go with a TC front end this summer, but I've been thinking out going with the Gen 1 kit(ie keeping the torsion bars). Would it really be that bad? I want it for the extra width and little bit of lift, I'm not going to be Bajaing or anything close.
03-23-2007, 07:13 AM
#16
Contributing Member
Ok, I know that torsion bars are not ideal for use with long travel designs, and coils are just so much cooler anyways. But coils are muchco $$$
I'm wanting to go with a TC front end this summer, but I've been thinking out going with the Gen 1 kit(ie keeping the torsion bars). Would it really be that bad? I want it for the extra width and little bit of lift, I'm not going to be Bajaing or anything close.
I'm wanting to go with a TC front end this summer, but I've been thinking out going with the Gen 1 kit(ie keeping the torsion bars). Would it really be that bad? I want it for the extra width and little bit of lift, I'm not going to be Bajaing or anything close.
03-23-2007, 07:31 AM
#17
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Sacramento, CA.
Posts: 363
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
For mild wheeling I think torsion bars are fine. You would probably never break and actual torsion bar they are pretty strong (I use my old TB's as pry bars). the weak part of them is how they are mounted. If I were to ever run torsions again I would upgrade to V6 torsion bars, the bar is the same diameter as a 4 cyl. bar but the sockets have more splines and a bigger socket. But that upgrade only works if you have a 4 cyl. truck. C/O's are expensive, I paid $1300 for my 2 front Kings so on a budget TB's are a good option, but I think they should be temporary. You can't retain 4WD with a Gen I TC kit unless you use the TB's.
03-23-2007, 08:17 AM
#18
Registered User
Torsion bars are great for going fast, in my opinion. Maybe not as good as a nice coilover, but the stiff bars will end hard bottoming. My 26mm bars with the LT arms were nice and firm, even jumping it a little bit.
However, if you are interested in flex, torsions may not be in your best interest. I always found it impossible to compress that last 2 inches of travel on the trail.
Yota 82 has a good point about the V6 sockets. Downey used to amke a beefy socket, but you'd have to find them used now.
The only other downside to teh GEN I kit is, I believe it has an upper ball joint. and Yota 82 is right, you gotta keep the torsion bars to run 4x4. I had heard of other guys making coilovers work with that kit, but it is super tight and definitely not ideal.
I would recommend the JD fabrication kit for buiulding in steps. You truly can run torsion and then swap to coils later....I did. Hell, you could run both if you wanted a real stiff suspension.
If you do run torsion bars, make sure your adjuster bolt is in good shape. If not replace them. Fairly cheap and I have heard that they can snap and shoot through the floor board.
However, if you are interested in flex, torsions may not be in your best interest. I always found it impossible to compress that last 2 inches of travel on the trail.
Yota 82 has a good point about the V6 sockets. Downey used to amke a beefy socket, but you'd have to find them used now.
The only other downside to teh GEN I kit is, I believe it has an upper ball joint. and Yota 82 is right, you gotta keep the torsion bars to run 4x4. I had heard of other guys making coilovers work with that kit, but it is super tight and definitely not ideal.
I would recommend the JD fabrication kit for buiulding in steps. You truly can run torsion and then swap to coils later....I did. Hell, you could run both if you wanted a real stiff suspension.
If you do run torsion bars, make sure your adjuster bolt is in good shape. If not replace them. Fairly cheap and I have heard that they can snap and shoot through the floor board.
03-23-2007, 08:56 AM
#19
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Calgary, AB, Can
Posts: 687
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have an 86 pickup in Canada...my adjusters are rusted to hell. They are going to be replaced regardless. Same with the TB sockets, I can pick up a set of V6 sockets for cheap(I'm pretty sure TC "strongly reccomends" this anyways).
I'm actually not to worried about BJ's and TRE's rather than uni-balls and heims. The way I look at it: I'm not building a serious wheeler, it's still my DD. BJ's and TRE's are cheap and easy to replace, and because I'm thinking of stick with the TB's I'm not getting the huge flex so not stressing the BJ's quite as bad.
I'm actually not to worried about BJ's and TRE's rather than uni-balls and heims. The way I look at it: I'm not building a serious wheeler, it's still my DD. BJ's and TRE's are cheap and easy to replace, and because I'm thinking of stick with the TB's I'm not getting the huge flex so not stressing the BJ's quite as bad.
03-23-2007, 09:06 AM
#20
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Sacramento, CA.
Posts: 363
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here is 2 pics of my homemade TC Gen I kit before I upgraded to uniballs and heim steering. There is basicly no way to retain 4WD because of the shock in the way as you can tell. I never really had a problem with the upper BJ's but the lower BJ's I had to replace frequently because they would try to pull apart. I later upgraded to the TC lower uniball conversion which I haven't had any problems with for a year and a half now.
